I was very happy with THAT!
I walked back to the bistro and celebrated with two more coffees, during which I met a woman from the UK who was going to Antarctica for the second time, having been in 2004. She was also a self-confessed Penguin addict and had taken on a mission to see all the world’s penguins in their natural habitat. We chatted for an hour or so before I said goodbye and set off to walk back to my hotel. It took me over an hour to walk the 4.5 kms. It was a tough walk, up hill most of the way and I was sweating in the 15C, 43% humidity and gasping by the time I got there at 18.45.
I didn’t do much for the rest of the evening – just sorted photographs and updated my lists.
A good 9 lifer day.
Trip List: 239 Lifers: 191 Mammals: 10, 3 Reptiles: 3
Day 36 Monday 14.11.22
I was up for breakfast well before it started at 7. At 7.40 the free shuttle to Ushuaia arrived and took me down to town.
I went to the Taxi place on the waterfront and asked for a taxi. The guy there didn’t speak any English – but called up a cabbie who did – a little.
I told him I wanted to go to near the visitors centre in the National Park. I wanted to walk the trail beside the Lapataia river, then be picked up again at Lapataia Bay. He quoted me 8,000 pesos to be dropped off and 10,000 pesos to be picked up. A total of $160.00 Aus.
I was a bit shocked, but had committed to going to the park so agreed. I probably could have got a bus, but it would have taken ages and I had no idea how to arrange a pick up. On reflection it would have been cheaper to rent a car, but no way to organise it at both ends so…..
We set off. I suddenly remembered – as I counted out all my cash to pay the man – that I would have to pay into the park as well – 3,500 pesos = $35Aus. I panicked a bit because I realised I didn’t have enough cash for that as well. The driver told me I could pay with the credit card so that eased my concern a bit.
Overall, although crazy expensive, it wasn’t the money so much as having to get more.
It had been a bit of a drama overall – banks not giving out much cash and charging on every withdrawal, US dollars being exchanged for much higher than the official rate and some doubts expressed about the ‘quality’ of my used $20.00US notes. That caused me more concern than paying $160 to be driven into a park. After all, it took at least 30 minutes to drive in – then he had to drive out without a fare. Then he had to drive back in again to pick me up – 2 hours driving for him at least. It all started to make some sort of sense, but it was still bloody expensive!
We got to the ‘gate’ of the NP – and there was no one there so I didn’t have to pay in anyway!
The road was just as dusty as the previous day, but…. there was no one else around. My plan had worked! Well.......... I had thought Monday might be quieter, but didn’t expect to be dropped off at the lake front and have the place completely to myself. I mean completely, once the taxi was gone. It was amazing, just me a Black-necked Swan and a few Upland Geese. Wow!
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| Black-necked Swan and......peace! |
I started walking and just enjoyed the peace and quiet and the scenery as I kicked the Upland Geese out of the way along the path. They were really cute and completely unafraid.
Just opposite the visitor center where I had seen one yesterday, I saw another Great Grebe, much closer to the shore. I sort of crouched down to await it as it swam towards me, then realised there was another one right in front of me as well. Stunning views. This is a serious Grebe!
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Great Grebe
|
Video
https://youtu.be/mN7GVv3nReA
I continued walking watching the river on my right. I heard a knocking noise from the tree belt 50 meters away across the road and headed over quietly to investigate.
I didn’t really need to exert caution. I ended up underneath a tree where 3, no less, Magellanic Woodpeckers were hammering the shit out the wood. 2 males and a female absolutely smashing this tree and completely ignoring me 3 meters below. Reputedly the biggest woodpecker in the world, it is, in fact, the same size as the European Black Woodpecker – but I reckon the red head makes it look bigger! A stunning experience and almost made the $160 fee worthwhile. I don’t know if this is normal with this bird or I was just plain lucky, but it was 15 minutes I will never forget.
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| Magellanic Woodpecker |
Video
https://youtu.be/3wid_5BrnUs
I moved on.
The walk was, at times, a scramble, but overall easy going. The scenery and peace away from the road was really good and with the very pleasant, warmish, clear weather totally enjoyable. The birds however, were very poor.
After the woodpeckers I saw only 1 Patagonian Sierra Finch in the next hour or so.
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| Patagonian Sierra Finch |
That was it, apart from the pairs of Upland Geese I came across every 100 meters or so. There were literally no other birds. The track followed the road for a while at one point and I had a couple of Austral Thrushes and Rufous-collared Sparrows, but nothing else.
I turned into the last section which took me away from the river and the road and through a forested section. Ah Ha I thought – here we go. Nope, here we didn’t go. I saw more Thrushes and a handful of Black-chinned Siskins and even sat down and ate the banana, croissants, ham and cheese I had stolen from breakfast and still saw nothing more. I tried playback for my target species and got nothing in response.
I reached my pickup destination at 11.30, an hour and a half ahead of the agreed pick up time of 13.00. I had allowed myself 4.5 hours to walk the 6 kms because I had thought I would spend a lot more time with birds, but…
The taxi turned up at 13.00 as arranged and we were back in Ushuaia 40 minutes later. I asked to be dropped off at a money exchange place and got out right outside. I was dubious as to whether they would take my $20 notes, but the totally uninterested youth inside simply counted the 5 x $20 I gave him, machine counted the pesos and handed me 2,400 ARS – the rate 240-$1. Probably a little low, but considering my notes were worn and not really wanted, I was happy enough.
Coffee again in my now favourite café/bistro, even the waitress remembered me. I guess its not often they have the same moron two days/three times in a row. Most people probably only spend a day or at most two in Ushuaia on their way to or from Antarctica. Won’t she be surprised when I show up again tomorrow?
After two coffees I walked up the street to the Aerolingus Argentinus office and went inside. I took a ticket and waited with the other 3 people ahead of me while 2 staff out of 5 counters stared at their computer screens and showed no enthusiasm for life, never mind the job.
Finally it was my turn and I explained that I wanted to add an extra bag to my Ushuaia/Buenos Aires flight in 3 days time. Surprisingly the dude understood and I paid 2,800 pesos ($28) for a 15 kg second bag. I asked for a 20kg bag extra – just to be sure - but for some strange reason I didn’t fathom if the second bag was between 15kgs and 23 kgs (max) I would need to pay extra at the airport? WTF? I couldn’t actually book and pay for any extra weight over 15kg at the office, I would need to do that at the airport. I say again – WTF?? Anyway, I don’t think my second bag will be more than 15kg so…. Its probably irrelevant, but no less confusing.
At this stage I had had enough really so I got a cab off the road back to the hotel – it cost 1,000 pesos ($10, actually less but I told him to keep the $1.30 change) and headed up to my room for a little collapse.
It was only 16.00 so I headed out again fairly shortly and walked up the road looking for a gap in the trees. I found one fairly quickly and followed a trail through the forest to eventually emerge onto a soggy sphagnum type moss covered hillside. I followed my nose along what appeared to be a skiing track that wound across the hillside with occasional signs indicating the type of ground skiers should be aware of. It was all Argentinian to me, but I kept going along the ‘piste’ or ‘toboggan’ or whatever.
I stopped at one sort of junction and set up the speaker. I played a couple of calls but nothing much happened, however, when I played White-throated Treerunner, a White-throated Treerunner appeared! Brilliant!
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| White-throated Treerunner - not the best, but it was a bit agitated and never stopped moving. |
I decided to try Austral Pygmy Owl as it was reputed to bring in the small birds – it did. A Thorn-tailed Rayadito, two House Wrens and at least 1 White-crested Elaenia came in to complain about the noise. It also stimulated a real Austral Pygmy Owl to call back from a copse 50 meters away!
There followed one of the most frustrating 45 minutes I have ever experienced in birding.
The real Owl kept calling well after I stopped. It was a sort of whistle ‘phew, phew, phew, phew’ which was repeated for up to 20 or 30 seconds? I could hear this really clearly – even a deaf man could hear it. The local birds could hear it too and responded accordingly.
But do you think I could SEE the bloody thing? I staggered around trying to be quiet staring up into the canopy about 30 feet above me, but I just could not see the bird. I was pretty sure I had the right tree, the Elaenia, Rayadito and Wrens were up there, it even brought in a Patagonian Sierra Finch (surprise) but I just could not see the tiny owl.
Eventually I moved back outside and played the tape one more time to see if I could draw the bird out into the open. It did, it flew above me and into another copse. I didn’t actually think the bird in flight was it, cause it didn’t fly like an owl, just looked like a smaller-than-a-thrush brown jobbie, but then it started to call from its new position and I ticked it based on that simple fact and basic view.
That was definitely enough. The two lifers sort of saved the day from being a bit of an expensive disaster bird-wise, although the Woodpeckers were exceptional.
I found my way back to the road across more soggy sphagnum and back to my hotel room. I simply dumped my stuff and went down to the almost completely deserted restaurant and had fish and chips for dinner. I was in bed writing my notes before 19.00.
Trip List: 241 Lifers: 193 Mammals: 10, 3 Reptiles: 3
Day 37 Tuesday 15.11.22
I had breakfast at 7, then got the free shuttle down town at 7.40. I started walking east immediately.
I had decided to check out an area along the Beagle Channel that the guide on Sunday had suggested. It was about 13 kms from Ushuaia. I had considered a taxi, but was a little gun-shy after the 160 dollar experience of the previous day. I thought a walk would be good anyway…
The road took me along the sea front past the naval base, dockyards, container collections, small businesses and all the kind of industrial stuff that keeps a city going. There wasn’t much of a path after the first few kilometers and the edge of the road was broken and dusty. It wasn’t very pleasant, but I persevered.
It was kind of lucky I did as I found one of my target species on a rock in the ocean viewed between two buildings. If I had got a taxi I’d have missed Fuegian or Flightless Steamer Duck as it was the only one I saw.
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| Fuegian or Flightless Steamer Duck - note the all orange bill and lack of any eye-stripe |
Further along as the buildings petered out I was checking out a pair of Flying Steamer Ducks offshore (as you do) when an Austral Negrito flew along the shoreline through my view.
I went down and got a better look – another species I might have missed in a cab, although I did see another one later, but at a greater distance.
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| Austral Negrito |
I eventually reached the beginning of the unsealed road that ran out along the coast. The main bitumen road swung to the left and went off over the mountains somewhere. I headed down the unsealed, dusty, loose road. It was plenty wide enough for two cars to pass, but there was no path and the dust was incredible when a vehicle drove by.
Not far down the road I turned left and followed the Gulls and my nose to the dump. The walk took me a kilometer or so up the road and round a hill to the city refuse facility. I didn’t go too close, but sat on a rail beside the main building and scanned the birds around the activity.
I eventually picked out at least 2 White-throated Caracaras among the hundreds of Kelp and Dolphin Gulls and several Chimango and Southern Crested Caracaras. This location is well known and recorded as a hotspot for the White-throated, which can be difficult. There was no point in trying for a photo, they were too far away and the dust in the air was horrific.
I walked back down to the coastal road and trudged off east.
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| Ushuaia |
A brief note on Ushuaia:City of 90,000 people. Isolated to a certain extent as its on an island, in fact, and surrounded by Chile. Tax benefits for people to come and work here. Main business seems to be servicing ships bound for the Antarctic - nearly everyone I met was either going to or returning from the Antarctic and over the past three days at least 5 cruise ships have docked. Between their visits the streets seem empty - then suddenly full again of people in brightly coloured jackets, boots, scarves, beanies - even though the temperature has been in the mid teens and I've been going around in rolled up sleeves. The town as can be seen is backed by mountains and there's only one road out I think. The National Park is at the far end and is shared with Chile - so there's no easy way out there. There are numerous hotels and some new apartment blocks - possibly to house people who have been encouraged to work here. There are some poorer looking areas, too, possibly mostly indigenous folk. It all seems quite safe, I haven't felt threatened or intimidated at any stage. The roads are horrendous. Broken and badly repaired, I don't know if its because of the severe winter frosts or just shit maintenance, but they are awful and anywhere outside the main town is unsealed, dusty and bumpy. The cars are often damaged, windscreens cracked, dented ect, they rattle along beside newer models in excellent condition - not sure what that says about the economics of the area. Some are making money!
I ended up walking all the way to the end of the dirt road, sometime along the beach below, but mostly along the dusty edge. There wasn’t a lot of traffic, just small cars with sightseers. There were no houses, cafes or any facilities along the road. I didn’t see much either. It was a bit disappointing, but repeated views of Chilean Skuas flying past, a small flock of Magellanic Penguins out in the channel and an overhead view of a White-throated Caracara at one point kept me going. I also did see 2 Black-browed Albatrosses and one, possibly two, White-chinned Petrels offshore.
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| Chilean Skua - a bit distant. |
At the end of the road, the track continued out along the shoreline and I followed on. It was tough going, the track was rough with protruding rocks and tree roots and some very steep sections. Definitely not wheelchair friendly, more likely to put you in a wheelchair……
Along the way, again, I didn’t see a lot of birds. Several White-crested Elaenias, a couple of Patagonian Sierra Finches, House Wrens, an Austral Thrush or two, a pair of Fire-eyed Diucons and several Thorn-tailed Rayaditos.
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| Thorn-tailed Rayadito |
It was while I was trying to photograph one of these little suckers, when another bird popped up in the bush and I managed to get the camera on it straight away because I already had it in my hand. Tufted Tit-Tyrant – one of my priority targets – so freaking cute!
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| Tufted Tit-Tyrant |
I reached the end of my strength, 13 kms out. I had arrived at an old house on a flat patch of land and beach frontage. I had not seen hide nor hair of my main targets along this shoreline – either one of two species of Cinclodes. I don’t know where these things could be, this appeared perfect habitat to me as described, but I decided to give up. I had a rest and ate the second croissant, cheese and ham I had filched from the breakfast table.
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| Beagle Channel - looking east toward the Atlantic |
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| Beagle Channel - looking west past Ushuaia and towards the Pacific |
I started heading back at 14.00. My shins and knees were aching but eased out a bit as I walked. It was just going downhill…..uuuuuuhhhhhh.
Halfway back to the road I found a Thorn-tailed Rayadito’s nest hole. I assume it was made by something else – maybe a woodpecker?
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| Thorn-tailed Rayadito and nesthole |
I knew there was no access to a bus or a taxi out there, unless a prior arrangement had been made, so I was resolved to walk all the way back, at least to the main road, approx 6 kms. I was 15 kms in at this stage.
However, I decided I might as well try and hitch a ride. Nothing to lose!
It’s been years. In fact I think the last time I actually raised a thumb was in Thailand with Mr D and Di when I hitched us all a ride to the top of a mountain in some National Park? Yonks since then anyway.
So I took off my headscarf, which had been protecting me from the sun, and started out along the road. I had only walked a couple of hundred meters when the first car came towards me. I turned, lifted my sunglasses, stared at the driver and raised my arm, thumb extended.
(I believe in hitching properly, none of this walking along pointing down at the road – you need to communicate with the driver and show you’re 1. Not a threat and 2. Keen enough to put effort in. If they can see your face, it gives them a subconscious opinion of the type of person you are and if you manage to make eye contact, it shows you’re basically honest.
Yeah – the science of hitching according to Colin. Then again, would YOU pick up someone with their back turned or who avoided eye contact? I wouldn’t!).
It was an older couple and they didn’t appear to be interested. I gave them a wave to say ‘it’s OK, thanks, anyway’ – another thing I do – and they stopped! Just like that I got a ride all the way back to Ushuaia! They didn’t speak any English so it was a relatively quiet ride, but I was very grateful and expressed my gratitude repeatedly.
I walked into town from the naval base where they had dropped me off and found my way to my favourite caf̩/bistro Рagain. I had three coffees and their croissant especial and rested up for 40 minutes or so.
It was 16.00 and I figured I had gained some time with the lift so I might as well use it to try to find either Grass Wren or Correndera Pipit in the reserve. Two species I had failed to connect with but which Gaston had told me were there.
I walked the kilometer or so along the seafront to the reserve, stopped at the hide briefly, then tried for the wren at least in the longer grass and low bushes but got nothing, nada. I did see the Magellanic Snipe again – at extremely close quarters – again!
I headed back into towards town and eventually picked up a cab back to the hotel, where I collapsed for a while. I debated a bath to ease my muscles and thought about someone who would have jumped at the chance of a bath. But, as she wasn’t there to share it, I had to go hard and have a shower.
A 4 lifer day today and a 19 kilometer walk.
Trip List: 245 Lifers: 197 Mammals: 10, 3 Reptiles: 3
Day 38 Wednesday 16.11.22
I had decided to spend my full last day in Ushuaia above the tree line so after breakfast I started walking.
It was not a long walk, just a continual uphill trudge with my knees and ankles protesting after the first 50 meters. I was about 100 meters up the road from the hotel and just checking out yet another Rufous-collared Sparrow when I heard a ‘honk’ and looking up caught a brief glimpse of a Black-faced Ibis flying low over the trees. It disappeared as quickly as it had appeared but I immediately recognized it for what it was – after all there’s only one Ibis in this area, so it wasn’t any great feat of bird knowledge. I had no idea where it went. They're supposed to be ‘common’ in this part of the world, but this was the only one I had seen and Ibis are not exactly discreet birds.
I carried on, eventually reaching the top of the tree line at 9.00 which I considered pretty good going considering my condition and the slope. I was the first one out along the track towards the patch of snow I think they refer to as the glacier. I was optimistic. My targets – White-bellied Seedsnipe, Yellow-bridled Finch and a Cinclodes species – were, I thought, possible if there weren’t many people around.
In the end I saw none of them.
It’s hard when you know so little about the specific birds – especially in a habitat you are not familiar with. Was I too high? Not high enough? Should I be looking on the bare rock? The scree? The moss covered rocks? The swampy bits? The bushes? The grass? Difficult to know where to start in such a vast landscape and knowing the Seedsnipe in particular is a very wary bird and inclined to just sit down and stay still – good luck with that! I tried playback on everything, but the only reaction I got was White-crested Elaenias which seemed to be everywhere.
And I did find one butterfly:
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| Cytheris Fritillary Yramea cytheris |
There were a good number of Ochre-naped Ground Tyrants, to the point where it became ‘it’s just another Ochre-naped’, and I did add Dark-faced Ground Tyrant to my Argentinian list, having seen it in the Falklands a couple of weeks ago, but saw bugger all else despite staring at miles of rock face, mountains of scree, acres of short stunted trees and grass, wading across swampy bogs, crossing freezing rivers, tramping through snow drifts and walking rough and rugged steep rocky tracks for 3 hours. I took to sitting down and just watching a hillside for a flicker of movement - it was always a Ground Tyrant.
BUT!! I did see a pair of Andean Condors.
They were a long way away – maybe 400 meters - high on a ridge, but taking it in turns to soar overhead and land and take off for about 10 minutes before I lost them and didn’t see them again. Spectacular!
Video
https://youtu.be/yKu1SBTnavw
I made my way eventually back down to the start of the narrow track and headed off on another track that wound across the mountainside and seemed to be much less busy. It kind of came to an end after about 500 meters and I sat there for a while watching the valley below without result, apart from another glimpse of two more Ibis flying away….
I then decided to go down a rather steep, loose slope and follow the river I could hear below back down to the café, rather than return the way I had come. I got down the slope OK and started working my way through the trackless birch forest below. It was hard going with the slope, fallen trees and marshy ground. I eventually crossed the river carefully, aware that if I fell they’d probably never find my bones, even after the snow melted.
Finally I came out on the road below the café and trudged back up the 500 meters to get coffee and have a lentil and meat dish that took ages to come, but was very tasty. I figured it was better value for 2,100 pesos ($20) than a meal in the hotel that would cost twice that and not taste half as good.
Then I started back down the road to my hotel. My knees were screaming at me to stop, but I pushed on, turning off into a tree-lined track and using the speaker for a while to see what I could bring in. Black-chinned Siskins, White-throated Treerunner, Austral Thrush and White-crested Elaenia responded well. I have found the Siskin very difficult to get decent photos of and this isn’t much good, but….you know.....
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| Black-chinned Siskin |
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| White-throated Treerunner |
Back at the hotel I packed most of my stuff, then had a snooze. No intention of going anywhere else at this stage. I think I’m done with Ushuaia!
A one-lifer day and another 10 kms staggered.
Trip List: 246 Lifers: 198 Mammals: 10, 3 Reptiles: 3
Day 39 Thursday 17.11.22
A bit of a nothing day. I got up late, had breakfast and then hung out in my room until checkout at 11. I had considered taking the early shuttle down to the city for some shopping, but the shops didn’t open till 10 or later and I had found out I was being picked up at 13.00 so just hung in the hotel until then.
The queue at the airport was long, but moved quickly. The flight boarded, as they all seemed to do here, late in the piece and left about 15 minutes late. Arrived in Buenos Aires later and it took a while before the bags came off the plane, although the airport didn’t seem that busy. My driver was ready and waiting and took me into the Argenta Tower Hotel again.
I dumped my bags and crossed to road for coffee. It took almost half an hour just to get a cup of coffee, one thing I would note is the service in Argentina is slow. I think its because they view food and drink as an event, even if its just coffee, whereas I just want coffee and when you’re alone, its not much of an event.
I had a light dinner in the hotel and then tried the internet. Eventually I had to sit in the lobby to get access – there was some problem ‘they were trying to fix’. I wanted to check-in for my flight but there was no email and I couldn’t figure out how to do it on the Latam website. I tried to follow the links but nothing seemed obvious so I gave up and went to bed.
Trip List: 246 Lifers: 198 Mammals: 10, 3 Reptiles: 3
Day 40 Friday 18.11.22
I got up a bit later than normal and went down for breakfast. Finished that (bloody scrambled eggs on offer again – I didn’t have any), I enquired at reception if there was an area ‘good for tourist shopping’? The girl told me of a place nearby and marked it on a map. I also enquired about la Boca, the stadium and shopping area devoted almost exclusively to the soccer club where Messi grew up. It was about 5 kms walk away and when I asked if it was safe to walk there, she laughed and said yes, but it would take me maybe three weeks? I said only if I crawled.
I decided to firstly see what was available at the tourist area and go to La Boca afterwards if necessary. I wanted to get an Argentinian club shirt for Linc as Messi was his hero.
I packed up the minimal I had opened overnight and dropped my bags at reception, paying my small bill and checking out.
Then I headed out and walked the 10 minutes or so to the shops. It was perfect. The mall arrangement went on for miles with all sorts of touristy type shit, cafes and street vendors. I wandered for a while just looking, then had a coffee before making the purchases I had planned. It wasn’t particularly cheap. I bought my three grandsons a hat each, Linc’s shirt and a small figurine of Messi, a bag full of Argentinian lollies and, from a street vendor, three small whistles that needed water in them to function well. The latter I was very happy with as I always like to get something a little different for the boys and although these were the cheapest items of the day (3 for 1,000 pesos or $10), I knew they’d be a hit. I had spent most of my remaining cash (20,000 pesos or $200) by the time I found a shop selling Gauche knives – although more touristy type items, one was good enough to join my knife collection.
Not needing now to go to La Boca I walked back to the caf̩ across the road from my hotel and sat for an hour or so watching the passing traffic Рsomething else I always like to do in any city, town or village I visit.
Back in the hotel I retrieved my luggage, packed away my bought items and worked on my blog until my driver arrived at 15.00. I hadn’t known who was coming or when and had no way to contact anyone, but had trusted Craig’s arrangements which had proved reliable throughout the trip.
It took an hour to get to the international airport, the traffic was heavy and the driver a bit jerky but he dropped me off just after 16.00 and I checked in for my flights. There was no issue with the fact that I hadn’t checked in on-line so obviously that was never an option.
I had to wait for an hour and a half before they even displayed the gate so went to MacDonald’s for my first burger and coffee from said establishment on this trip. It’s never a true birding trip unless you go to Mackers!
The Latam plane left a few minutes late at 19.20 and it was quite a bumpy flight across Argentina. As we approached the Andes we were warned to ‘stay in your seats and fasten your safety belts’. I anticipated a bit of turbulence but, in fact, the rest of the flight passed relatively smoothly. Being evening the Andes were only dimly visible below but spectacular none the less.
A three hour layover in Santiago passed slowly – although I did have another coffee in the Mackers there.
Then it was a 12 hour Latam flight to Auckland and another security check – no one complained about my batteries this time – and another 2 hour wait.
This stretch was direct to Brisbane with Qantas and, predictably (in my opinion), was delayed by an hour due to ‘operational reasons’. Typical of Qantas – this is why I avoid flying with them whenever possible. There’s always some delay, some issue, minimal apology and little appreciation for any inconvenience caused. I had had no choice in this case, but I regretted the fact once again.
We landed 45 minutes later than scheduled, I passed through customs without issue and got an Uber home. So, after 43 hours, minus the 13 hour time difference, it had been 30 hours since I had left the hotel in Buenos Aires, one of the longest flight/travel stages I had done. This time though I wasn’t jetlagged, supporting the theory that flying west is much less likely to cause jetlag than flying east. I stayed awake easily all day, unpacking and turning stuff back on before going down to see my daughter and two of the grandsons, as usual on a Sunday, late in the afternoon.
It had occurred to me, coming into Brisbane, that I had, in fact, less and less reason to come back.
I know that sounds a bit dramatic – and I mean no insult or hurt to anyone – but realistically there is less now in Brisbane for me than there ever has been before.
Yes, the grandsons, of course. I love them and they are very dear to me – and I believe I am to them. But. They have their own lives to be getting on with and with school and sports and their friends and interests – Grumpsy was not as important or necessary. And that’s the way it should be!
Yes, my ‘home’ is there. But. It’s always there and does not need much attention.
Yes, I have some friends there. But. They have their own interests and lives and relationships to fulfill their needs and time.
Apart from that I wondered if I really had any place in Brisbane anymore?
I’ve always been a bit of a loner and that state has become even more apparent over the last few years – and especially in more recent times.
I don’t mean this in a ‘woe is me’ manner at all. It’s an assessment of my current state – and being realistic about it. Since I retired I’ve travelled as much as I was capable of – that’s true – but until last year I felt I did have something to come back for, something that mattered, something that made me very happy and I anticipated every time with hope and warmth.
I did love going overseas – the excitement, the anticipation, the planning and the expectations. And I still do, maybe even more so now? But. I always loved coming home too – or at least coming to somewhere I called home. Australia has been my life for 40 odd years, but my heart is in Ireland. But. There’s nothing much in Ireland for me now either!
It’s a quandary I will work on resolving in the future. But. The older the kids get the less they need me - and again, its important to note, I don’t mean this in a negative, depressing, down at the mouth manner at all. It’s the way life should be, it’s the way it must be, it’s the way it will be, regardless of how I might feel about it. I wouldn’t have it any other way – the whole point of being a parent or grandparent is to ensure your offspring achieve the best in life and I would always do my best to contribute to that.
I’m not depressed or feeling sorry for myself. There is no doubt I am sad that I don’t have more to come home to, but it is what it is and I have no control over that part of my life. There is still a hole in my heart that hasn’t been filled, a part of me that is empty, regardless of whether I am in Brisbane or Antarctica or Ireland, exciting or boring as some of those places may be. It just occurred to me, that’s all, that, although I have just had the trip of a lifetime, a trip that exceeded all my expectations, a trip that excited me, challenged me, enthralled me – there is still a part of me empty and unfulfilled.
Food for further thought!
(If you’ve lasted this far, reading my shit – well done and thank you!!)
Trip List: 246 Lifers: 198 Mammals: 10, 3 Reptiles: 3
KAYAKING VIDEOS:
Jason Bay, South Georgia (18 minutes)
(To look up this video on You Tube without the link search 'Kayaking in Jason Bay')
https://youtu.be/f_vEzP9jcT8
Portal Point, Antarctica (32 minutes)
(To look up this video on You Tube without the link search 'Kayaking at Portal Point')
https://youtu.be/LXpKP5U2R8I
Surprise Island, Antarctica (15 minutes)
(To look up this video on You Tube without the link search 'Kayaking at Surprise Island')
https://youtu.be/mIj2h2xrHDY
A note on the post. I had sent postcards from Stanley, Falkland Islands on 27.10.22 to my mother (Dublin), my grandson, my ex-wife (cause she asked me to) and myself (for the stamp). My mother got hers - although I don't know when. My grandson and Karen got theirs at the same address (Yatala, Qld) a few days before I got back, so delivery took approximately 3 weeks. I got mine the day after I got back, 3 or 4 days after Yatala. All in all I guess 3-3.5 weeks is acceptable delivery, although why mine took longer when I live in an inner suburb of Brisbane, while Yatala is semi-rural, I'll never understand. It also meant, however, that Aust Post had actually managed my re-direction successfully and ended it as planned when I got back, unlike the last time when they continued to re-direct my mail for 8 weeks after I got back....
I know all this won't mean anything to most people, but to those who know - it will!
1.12.22 Late note: I just spent most of the day identifying 28 species of butterfly - the IDs have now been updated - for anyone who may be interested.
