SOUTH AUSTRALIA
23 - 29.11.16
Prior to Day 1; 22.11.16 You know those nights when you have to get up early
for a meeting or a flight – and you can’t sleep? Have you got everything? Is
every eventuality planned for? Will you wake up in time, despite the two alarms
set?
I got to bed at 10
after a whiskey and……lay awake. My mind going in circles, so much to think
about, so many thoughts – not all of them about the trip – so much to worry
about.
Midnight and still
wide awake, no chance of sleep.
1.00am and up for
another whiskey.
1.30 and I started
reading.
2.00am and finally
dropped off…
To wake at 3…..
Then afraid to go
to sleep again, despite the need, in case I missed the 3.45 alarm.
Giving up at 3.30.
Day 1: 23.11.16 Jade and I left at 4.40, picked up Mr P and arrived at
the airport at 5.15. Checked in, boarded at 5.45 and left on time at 6.15.
My mouth felt like
the inside of a jock strap….then again, I’ve never actually tasted a jock
strap, but I imagine that’s what it tastes like.
We landed on time
in Adelaide at 9.20 and made our way to the Europcar desk in the car park. It took
45 long minutes to get our car, a brand new, dark red Mitsubishi ASX with only
295 kms on the clock. Little did they know….
We found our way
to a Big W in an, apparently, run down suburb, bought a couple of camp chairs
then food for the trip. Next up, a BCF store for disposable gas bottles to fit
the two camping stove tops I had brought.
Then it was on the
road towards Port Augusta.
Our plan:
Day 1-660 kms west
to Venus Bay for the Laughing Gull.
Day 2-400 kms back
to Whyalla for Western Grasswren
Day 3-450 kms
northeast to Gluepot for the Scarlet-chested Parrot (+ Day 4)
Day 5-450 kms
further east to Hattah-Kulkyne for Mallee Emu-wren & Striated Grasswren.
(+Day 6)
Day 7-Back to
Adelaide
So – we stopped in
Port Augusta for a Mackers coffee – didn’t make my mouth feel any cleaner, but
it did help wake me up. Mr P took over and drove on. 20 or 30 kms west of Port
Augusta we stopped at a site in the middle of nowhere (between poles 252 and
257 before the Iron Knob turn
off) and looked for Western Grasswren. No luck but we did have White-winged Fairy-wrens, Spiny-cheeked
Honeyeaters, Bluebonnets, Yellow-rumped Thornbills and a couple of Western Grey Kangaroos. A strong easterly wind made life
difficult and was to be a regular feature of the next few days.
 |
| Western Grey Kangaroo |
Heading on to Venus Bay, we arrived at 18.45 and had the Laughing Gull by 18.50. Very confiding.
Any closer and it would have been behind us. Easy peasy. An Australian tick for
Mr P.
 |
| Mr P and The Gull |
 |
| Laughing Gull |
The brilliant thing about South Australia in our view was the daylight saving
– dawn at 6am, light till 8pm – civilised! So much better than Queensland –
dawn at 4, dark by 6…
We checked into a
cabin in the caravan park - $70 – double bed, 6 bunks, microwave, kettle, stove
top – all very modern and comfortable. Had dinner and discussed the plans for
the next week.
Mileage = 971 (676
kms)
Day 2: 24.11.16 A good nights sleep – almost 8 hours solid. Up at 6 –
dawn only just breaking.
We checked the
caravan park and surrounds – but no further sign of The Gull. We assumed it
came in only when there was a chance of food – in the afternoon when the
fishermen returned. There were very few Silver
Gulls around although the same few Pacific
Gulls were hanging out with hope in their eyes.
We left at 8.00
and headed east towards Elliston. We checked the coastline there for
Fairy Tern, but no luck. (My bogey bird – just can’t seem to connect with the
dam thing).
Across the
peninsula then to eventually arrive at Whyalla. On the way a dead lizard in the road
turned out to be a Shingleback -
neither of us had seen one before, unfortunately an encounter with someone
else’s tyres denied us the experience of a live one.
Whyalla at 11.00
and we sought out a place to eat. The Espresso Cafe seemed to offer one of the
very few options immediately available.
It was a bit like
a time warp. I don’t know if it was the hours of driving at relatively high
speed or what, but I felt like I’d stepped into a different dimension. The town
was very quiet for a Thursday night, the streets almost deserted. Relying very
much on nearby mining, maybe most of the population are transient and don’t
come in much? Everything seemed to be covered in a red haze and seemed out of date
– or maybe it was just me. The coffee was excellent, however, the service fast
and the hot dog and baked potato were worthwhile and filled the gap nicely.
Then it was out on
the road to Iron Knob for 10 ks and the beginning of our search for Western Grasswren
– and the destruction of my virginity.
Yes, that’s right
– I have never seen a Grasswren. I have tried for at least two species but
never had a glimpse, a view, heard a squeak or seen a shadow – this was,
hopefully, going to be the time.
No luck at the 10
k site, so we tried further on, approx 16ks and still no GW but we did find Slender-billed
Thornbill, a tick for me and my final Australian Thornbill. Mr P
located them with ‘there’s a couple of
interesting looking Thornbills here…?” and interesting they turned out to
be! We saw at least 4 at this location, despite the afore-mentioned wind.
 |
| Slender-billed Thornbill |
On to Whyalla
Conservation Park – we walked up
and down and over and around Wild Dog Hill – plenty of Variegated Fairy Wrens and a mixed flock of Yellow-rumped and more Slender-billed
Thornbills, Southern Whitefaces and heaps of Spiny-cheeked and Singing
Honeyeaters, but no GW.
16.00 – 4 hours in
and no GW. My virginity looked secure –yet again….
Back, in a final
fit of desperation, to a point about 7 ks out the Iron Knob road where Mr P
thought the habitat ‘looked good’. We crossed the nearby railway line and
walked through really good looking GW habo, but nowt apart from a ‘new’
butterfly - Australian
Painted Lady Vanessa kershawi.
 |
| Australian Painted Lady Vanessa kershawi |
Shaking heads we
headed back to the car.
I could tell Mr P
had had enough.
5 hours is nothing
in a grasswren search, but it wasn’t a new bird for him and it had been a long
day. As we started to cross the railway line a bird flew low and disappeared
into another bush. Mr P signalled me and we walked along the track towards it.
He crouched down and then came out with another blinding ‘I’ve got one’ and I saw a quick flash of a bird disappearing at
ground level into yet another patch of saltbush.
A wait quietly for
a few minutes and it re-appeared bouncing around like a demented rubber ball,
it posed twice in the open – no time for bins, naked eye only at about 20
meters, cocked tail, long legs, rounded body, hugely active – Western Grasswren!
At last – my first
GW, my virginity lost for ever!
We decided that we
would waste no more time in Whyalla – neither of us fancied spending the night
in the area - so we headed off back towards Port Augusta to cut some time off
tomorrow’s drive to Gluepot. On the way I booked a cabin in Port Pirie Beach
Caravan Park before we stopped in Port Augusta for some more food – and a
sewing kit for me to repair my trousers which had developed a tear that
threatened to reveal my best parts…..
Then it was a
quick stop in Mackers for a coffee for me, before the final leg to Port Pirie.
Unfortunately, we
had an undesirable meeting with the local constabulary in the shape of a
traffic cop who gave Mr P a Christmas present in the form of a request for a
donation to the Policeman’s Christmas Party of $260 and in return he traded 2
points off his licence – all for 9 kms over the speed limit in an 110k zone.
Luckily he hadn’t been around earlier in the day when I was driving…..
(NOTE WARNING – IF
YOU’RE FROM INTERSTATE AND DRIVING IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA AND THERE IS A POLICE CAR
STOPPED AT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WITH IT’S STROBE LIGHTS ON YOU MUST SLOW
DOWN TO 25 KMS/HR – OR RISK LOSING YOUR LICENSE)
We got to the
caravan park at 20.00, checked in and paid the $68 bill, then cooked our
curries in the microwave and settled in for the night – while I repaired that
tear in the leg of my trousers which had been threatening to expose my nether
regions…..
While we ate and
sewed Mr P checked E-bird and mentioned a series of lists updated by one Steve
Potter over the last few days who had, in birding vernacular, ‘cleaned up’ in
SA, on the Strzelecki Track and Gluepot in particular. Mr P emailed him and
asked for contact.
We started
thinking that maybe we should change our plans……..
Mileage 1616 = 645
kms today, trip total = 1321 kms.
Day 3: 25.11.16 Up at dawn, good sleep. Had breakfast and checked out
the water behind the caravan site – 1 Musk
Duck, somehow we missed the Black Swans – inside joke….
Left at 7.15 and
headed north towards Gluepot. I drove. Arrived Burra at 8.00. Everything looked
closed, but the White Cedar Café
was open and we had coffee there – excellent café, highly recommended.
Headed on at a leisurely pace, arrived Morgan at 10.00.
About 2ks outside
town we parked up at a side road near the cemetery – Ring Road - and walked out onto the saltbush plain. We found 4 Redthroats as predicted by others and a
few Fairy Wrens and more Southern
Whitefaces.
Then on to the
entrance to Gluepot. Too early to call the guy with the info so went down to
the Murray River ferry at Waikerie and sat beside the river until 12.00.
We called Steve
Potter as he had suggested – and he gave us great info – then we talked about
abandoning the Hattah part of the plan and going to the Strzelecki Track……..
Now remember - we
were driving a 2 wheel drive SUV – therefore a bit of clearance but a rental 2 wheel drive SUV. To say I had
misgivings would be an understatement. My vision of the Strzelecki Track was a
tough, challenging, dangerous 4WD-only desert trek with the possibility of
getting lost, dying of thirst, breaking down, getting punctures and other major
concerns including damaging the 2WD rental car…
Mr P checked with
Mr Potter re the condition of the track and was assured it was ‘good’. But me,
having nothing to compare Mr Potter’s description with had no basis to rely on
the accuracy.
Mr P had ‘done the
track’ 4 times previously and so re-assured me of his confidence and risk
aversion. We agreed that if it was too rough we would turn back. The big
drawcard? What else – Letter-winged Kites. Mr P had missed them on four
previous occasions and he was really keen. I had never in my wildest dreams
believed I would see LWK anytime soon. They are a desert raptor that have to be
‘got’ at their nest site for any chance of reliability. Sure people see them
elsewhere but when you have a day or two the chances of seeing one in the
desert randomly are remote to say the least. The word was they were present 250
kms up the track with fledged young, but still hanging around the nest site
area.
Would we go?
Probably – or Mr P would leave me on the side of the road and go himself!
Could we go?
Probably….
Could I be
convinced? It was coming closer.
Was I acting like
an old woman? YES – and Mr P probably questioned his sanity in birding with
me…..
I agreed. We would
do it.
Now, for some of
you that might not be a huge decision, you might think ‘how pathetic’, calls
himself a birder but is worried about a hire car/dying of thirst/breaking
down/getting punctures/getting lost – but appreciate - for me IT WAS. End of.
But first –
Scarlet-chested Parrot at Gluepot - so we headed in.
Half way in along
the sandy track we came across two Shinglebacks Tiliqua
rugosa aspera in the road - brilliant! A lizard I have long wanted to see
(live), just brilliant!
 |
| Shingleback Tiliqua rugosa aspera |
We stopped at the Gypsum-Lunette
walk, 14 ks outside Gluepot itself, where the Parrot had reportedly
bred – common knowledge now I believe - and walked in. We believed we found the
SCP nest tree – but no birds. Quite hot – 29 degrees in the car when we walked
out. Not much happening bird-wise.
On to Gluepot HQ
at about 13.00. Checked out the place, then drove to track 8, north, beside the
Grasswren Tank and parked up. We had
heard a SCP had been seen in the vicinity but were feeling a lot less
optimistic. Bit of a needle in the haystack now that the birds had left the
nest area.
I rested for a
while and Mr P wandered around finding stuff like White-browed Treecreeper, Chestnut-rumped Thornbills, Painted Dragon
and others.
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| Chestnut-rumped Thornbill |
 |
| Painted Dragon x Mr P |
 |
| White-browed Treecreeper |
I found what I
believe was a Barred Wedge-tailed
Ctenotus Ctenotus schomburgkii –
although it does not appear on the Gluepot list.
 |
| Barred Wedge-tailed Ctenotus Ctenotus schomburgkii |
The track to the
campsite we had chosen was impassable in our 2 wheel drive SUV (!!) due to a
large wet muddy area so we decided to just camp beside the track near the
Grasswren Tank, figuring we would pitch late and pack up early and no one would
be any the wiser. However, when we visited the nearby hide, and aware that the
temperature would drop to about 8 degrees overnight, I suggested that we sleep
in the hide itself rather than pitch our tents.
So at 18.30 we ate
and then bedded down on the wooden floor in the hide for a remarkably
comfortable night’s sleep.
Mileage = 1953.
Today = 337 ks. Total = 1658 ks.
Day 4: 26.11.16 It was a good night’s sleep – probably warmer in the
hide, than in the tent! Up at 5.45, had coffee, tea & breakfast. Walked
Track 8 – very, very quiet even after dawn. Heard a Crested Bellbird and Grey
Shrikethrush, saw a few Chestnut-rumped
Thornbills.
Left the site at
7.15 and drove to the headquarters nearly getting clocked by a Red Kangaroo on the way… Checked the
board, paid for the ‘camping’ and headed out. Stopped at the Gypsum-Lunette
walk and walked in to the same place as yesterday. Nothing much going on. Met
two other birders there who pointed out the actual SCP breeding tree – we had
got it wrong by about 100 meters. Didn’t matter – there were no parrots, in
fact there was nothing around at all. Oh we did see a Weebil and photographed a Mallee Military Dragon Ctenophorus fordi and a Slender Gumleaf
Grasshopper Goniaea
 |
| Mallee Military Dragon Ctenophorus fordi |
 |
| Slender Gumleaf Grasshopper Goniaea |
Back to the car
and headed out at 9.00. Reached Burra at 11.00 and had a second breakfast at
the White Cedar Café. Fuel-ed up ($1.17/litre) and headed north at 11.45. Just
before Hawker a large flock of Pipits on the road looked like Chats, but
weren’t, but two Chirruping Wedgebills joined
them on the tarmac and a Brown Falcon
flew by. Black Kites in abundance
along the roads.
Fuel-ed and
coffee-ed up in Hawker ($1.43/litre) and we arrived at Lyndhurst Hotel – the
start of the Strzelecki - at 16.30.
Checked in – Mr P
booked a room ($50/night), I decided to camp ($15/night). Fuel-ed up the car
and filled a jerrycan ($40) with 20 litres as a precaution ($1.66/litre). Set
up tent for me and relaxed, after a shower, in the air con in Mr P’s room.
When it was a little
cooler, around 19.00, we headed out to the airfield on a tip-off from the
publican. A tour group of 3 were already on site with Peter Wanderers and we
locked onto the same target they were on – Inland Dotterel. A lifer for me. A single adult
with a well fledged chick. The bird was relatively distant and the light too
poor for photography, but still a stunning bird. We’ll try again tomorrow
night.
We had a beer,
then crashed – me in my tent, Mr P in his room.
Day 5: 27.11.16 Up at 4.45 after a good night – not too hot,
surprisingly not cold. Quick coffee and oats, then off on The Strzelecki.
I was REALLY
worried, apprehensive, and nervous, not really knowing what the road conditions
were, how the car would handle it, being only a 2 wheel drive. Worried about
damage and insurance and rental agreements …. however, the birds were calling
us on and we were committed (or should be….)
We had decided to
go the furthest distance then bird on the way back. The furthest distance was
approx 30 ks past the Montecollina Bore. The Montecollina Bore was approx 200
kms away.
The first 50 kms
was in the breaking dawn and there were hundreds of kangaroos trying to take us
out. They really are pretty brainless- almost always insisting on crossing
right in front of you when they should just be running (hopping) the other
direction. Mainly Red Kangaroos, most appeared to be female.
There were 5 or 6
stretches of bitumen in that 200 k run each between 5 and 8 kms long. No idea
why they have chosen to put a good road surface down in a particular spot – we
couldn’t see any difference in the general area, but there they were and it was
a pleasure to get off the stones for a few minutes.
And that was it –
the rest was stony, hard packed mud or gravelly surface. Mr P drove and our
first stop was for a couple of Australian
Pratincoles on one of the stretches of bitumen. Then it was on and on and
on…..we kept the speed to about 80ks, slower when the surface demanded it
We only came
across three road trains going the other way and pulled into the side of the
road as they passed. They were doing about 70-80 ks and all was good.
A couple of videos of driving the Strzelecki Track
It was 8.45 and
217 kms before we passed the Bore.15 minutes later and another 26kms and we
were checking the trees when Mr P shouted “THERE’S 3 OF THEM!” and three Letter-winged Kites flew out of the nearest tree, right beside the road
and circled above.
Much jubilation,
with appropriate hand shaking and cursing and swearing. Arguably the hardest
raptor in Australia and the final Australian raptor for both our lists. Given
the fact that this was Mr P’s 5th attempt it’s not hard to imagine
the carry on in the Mitsubishi. I was just so pleased to be with him to share
in his excitement – and get off on them myself, of course!
And what a
stunning bird! Just unbelievable, the eyes huge in the face, the clean lines of
grey and white and black – just one of the best birds I have ever seen.
I scanned further
up the road and spotted two well fledged juveniles in a second tree on the
left. One of us also spotted an adult in a tree on the right and we drove up
slowly and photographed them from the car.
 |
| Letter-winged Kite - adult |
 |
| Letter-winged Kite - juvenile |
 |
 |
| Mr P and Letter-winged Kites - at last!
A couple of videos of the Kites. First the juvenile, second the adults.
|
After 45 minutes
we decided that it was probably best to leave them so others coming today could
enjoy them and we headed back. In total we believe we had 7 birds, 3 adults and
4 juveniles.
We stopped at Montecollina Bore and had some lunch surrounded by Australian Ravens, Little Corellas and hundreds of Zebra Finches - Oh and one Australian Shelduck..
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| Australian Shelduck |
Heading back we
stopped at a likely sand dune and searched for Eyrean Grasswren. I was lucky enough
to see two – only running and naked eye, but enough. My virginity now in
tatters….
 |
| Mr P at Eyrean Grasswren site |
 |
| x Mr P |
We then started
the long trek back to Lyndhurst, stopping to check areas of gibber for
Gibberbird and Cinammon Quail Thrush without success. We also investigated the
Whiteface location at Lyndhurst station in preparation for tomorrow morning. Mr
P had organised access the night before but it was 32 degrees and nothing was
moving.
Back at Lyndhurst,
488 kms round trip, we relaxed with a coke and air con, showered and had dinner
before re-visiting the Inland Dotterel site at the airfield. Disappointingly we
had no luck there and returned to Mr P’s room & updated the log before
crashing.
It really had been
a bit of a dawdle. The surface no worse than a lot of unsealed tracks we have
driven over the years – and better than some. My panic and fear now looked
ridiculously naiive, but…. I have to say I make no excuse for it. It was all
reasonable. I am just pathetic, that’s it!
Morning start =
2557
The Bore = +218
Kite city = +243
Lyndhurst end =
497
Total mileage =
3054. Today = 497. Trip total = 2759.
Day 6: 28.11.16 Up at 5.30, breakfast, then away at 6. 27.2 kms to
the ‘rusty car site’. Peter Wanderers and crew were already on site.
 |
| The famous old rusty car wreck |
We didn’t
talk to them, but wandered around searching for the Chestnut-breasted Whiteface
– without success. We did have a Rufous
Fieldwren and White-winged Fairy
Wrens, but nothing else.
Left there and
drove back towards Lyndhurst. About 100 meters up the road a bird flew across,
low, flaired, almost landed but continued around behind the car to the original
side. A Cinammon Quail Thrush - my sixth trip tick. We
stopped, hopped out and looked but could not re-locate. Continued on another
few hundred meters then pulled in on the left and started searching the flat
and low hills for more Quail-thrush – again, no success. Mr P did flush a Spotted Nightjar which circled us and
landed a couple of times providing great flight and brief ground views.
Returned to the car and crossed the road, driving in to the old mine site on Lyndhurst
station. Searched again for the Whiteface with the same, dismal
result.
 |
| Rufous Fieldwren |
 |
| Spotted Nightjar by Mr P |
While we were
heading back to Lyndhurst Mr P proposed going to Maree, 78 kms up the road and
trying the first 18-20 kms of the Birdsville track for
Gibberbird. I agreed. We packed quickly and left at 9.50, arriving at the
Birdsville at 10.45. On the way we saw several and I managed to catch a Central Bearded
Dragon Pogona vitticeps on the road.
 |
| Central Bearded Dragon Pogona vitticeps |
Driving out the
track – similar in surface to the Strzelecki - we came across a mixed flock of Australian Pipits, Orange Chats and, as it turned out, a White-plumed Honeyeater. We tried on several areas of gibber, but
had no luck with the target bird.
Returned to Maree
and headed south.
Picked up $50
worth of fuel at Leigh Creek ($1.47/litre) then headed on to Hawker. Had a
coffee, then swopped seats and I drove the rest of the way to Port Pirie where
we booked into the same caravan park as Thursday night - $68.
Total mileage =
3690. Today = 596. Trip total = 3395.
Day 7: 29.11.16 Breakfast over, we dumped our remaining food, the two
camping chairs, the nearly full gas cylinders and the emergency petrol
container and headed into town to wash the car. That done, we went to Mackers
for breakfast, then headed towards Adelaide. I drove and kept the speed down to
the speed limit – I didn’t feel like contributing any more to the Policeman’s
Ball….
We fuelled up at
Port Wakefield ($1.18/litre) and Mr P took over as I used the iPad to find a
couple of potential sites for that dammed Fairy Tern.
We tried Bald Hill Beach - tide way, way out, but we saw a couple more Shinglebacks and at least two male White-fronted Chats (we’ve now seen all the Australian chats this
year); Thompson
Beach and Port Gawler. Then on to St Kilda
(2 Grey-tailed Tattlers to
add to the trip list) and finally Henley Beach. We had lunch at a Greek
restaurant, Nepenthe, at Henley Square – very trendy – then drove along the sea
front to the mouth of the Torrens river, again, without any FT success.
We topped up the
car, (1.06/litre) packed the bags and dropped the car off at the airport at
16.00. We had a relatively long wait for our flight’s boarding at 18.30, then
it was a smooth, half-filled flight to arrive back in Brisbane at 21.00.
Total mileage =
4006. Today = 316. Trip total = 3711.
Job done.
21.11.16
Norman Creek, Holland Park West
Bright sunny
morning – the place looked very quiet for the first 10 or 15 minutes, seemed to
be dominated by Noisy Miners.
Then surprise, surprise
two Australian King Parrots flew in!
One female, one juvenile male. They landed in the big trees, then flew around
for a few minutes before, apparently disappearing along the creek line heading
south. Not a bird I would have looked for, but, given their numbers in and
around the bushland at Mt Gravatt, it’s probably one I should have expected. No
74 on the list – a list, incidentally, that does not include Rock Pigeon……
I also had a Little Friarbird calling
enthusiastically and a White-browed
Scrubwren – both birds not seen commonly in Holland Park west. A Laughing Kookaburra sitting quietly was
aggressively assaulted by a pair of Willy
Wagtails – even landing on its back – until it departed in disgust and a
small feeding flock of 4 Blue-faced
Honeyeaters moved along the creek line.
19.11.16
Anstead
Another still,
warm, low cloud, sun struggling through a haze kind of morning where everything
seems muted and activity is low – and it was. A squabbling pair of Laughing Kookaburras at the top of the
first section of track was interesting. The brawl ended up with one held
suspended by its bill locked in with the other’s for several seconds before
they both released their grip.
 |
| Laughing Kookaburras fighting - pretty shite photo, but the action didn't last long. |
Two separate White-winged Trillers seen very poorly
high in the canopy and a single Little
Bronze Cuckoo were best birds. I found a small skink under a rock and have
submitted it for confirmation ID to the long-suffering museum staff. A large
spider suspended in its web at the fence line was a Dome Tent Spider Cyrtophora
molucensis.
 |
| Dome Tent Spider Cyrtophora molucensis. |
Even the butterflies
were lazy – a few Monarchs, a couple
of Glasswings and the usual Meadow Argus looking battered and
weary.
I finished up after 2.15 hours at
8.15 and headed home.
Update
I had photographed some 'stuff' that I needed help identifying and Mr B and the Queensland museum have come through..
 |
| Common Glider Tramea loewii from Mackay Botanical Gardens |
 |
| Eastern Stony Creek Frog Litoria wilcoxii at the northern limit of its range in Eungella NP |
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| Orange Threadtail Nososticta solida - Eungella NP |
 |
| Spotted Spur-throated Locust Austracris basalis |
17.11.16
Oxley
A still, cloudy
morning. Fairly quiet along the track, the usual birds – typical for this time
of year. As the morning progressed the sun came out and the butterflies picked
up – an increased number of Lesser
Wanderer Danaus chrysippus and
dozens of Common Grass-blues Zizinia labradus along the grass track
to the ponds where a Dusky Moorhen
with 4 chicks was a sure sign of breeding again. On the return walk a Blue Tiger Tirumala harnata was a
new site species for me in this life, but, other than that, a fairly average
morning.
16.11.16
Norman Creek, Holland Park West
Bright sunny
morning, not too hot, not too sweaty. Someone had been and cut most of the
grass in the main field, reducing dramatically the number and range of
butterflies – and killing an adult Common
Blue Tongue lizard while they were at it.
The birds were on
the quiet side, no waterbirds at all and only 17 species in total.
I did photograph
one of two butterflies - Cabbage White
Pieris rapae
 |
| Cabbage White Pieris rapae |
And a Humped Golden Orb Weaver Nephila plumipes. Note the male in the top middle of the photo - tiny in comparison....sometimes the way I feel......
 |
| Humped Golden Orb Weaver Nephila plumipes. |
Minnippi
I decided to check
the local patch despite the predicted 35 degrees. It was very warm and sweaty
even at 6.30 when I arrived. Humidity must have been in excess of 80%.
Nothing much to
report, most of the usual birds and butterflies, nothing out of the ordinary.
I finished at 8.30
and headed home for, hopefully, a cooler lounge room.
6 - 11.11.16
Road Trip - Rockhampton/Mackay
Day 1: 6.11.16: Mr P picked me up at 6 and we hit the road.
First stop was
Maryborough, turning off the main road, for a Mackers coffee. Thousands of Caper Whites committed mass suicide on
the traffic all the way to Gympie.
Second stop – a
roadside, gravelly area for a cold drink and munchies just before Calliope.
Third stop – fuel
at Calliope itself.
We reached the 12
Mile Creek turnoff a few ks past Mt Larcom at about 13.00 and found our way
down 12 Mile
Creek road to the track beside
the creek itself. The car was showing a temperature of 39 degrees and it was
f….. hot out of the air conditioning.
Needless to say
nothing was moving, apart from butterflies, so we decided to leave the walk
along the track for tomorrow morning and headed to Port Alma road.
Our target here
was Yellow Chat and Zitting Cisticola. When we stopped at Gate 1 the car was
telling us – don’t be stupid its 40
degrees outside! 40 degrees?? F… me!
A hot northerly
was blowing across the salt flats and, again, virtually nothing was moving. A
few Australian Pipits showed and a Golden-headed Cisticola stuck its head
up for a minute or two, but that was it. We explored the road a few ks further
on, but turned back soon enough.
Stopping at a
roadside billabong we had 4 Cotton Pygmy
Geese, Comb-crested Jacana, Black
Swans (!), three Wandering
Whistle Ducks and a few dragonflies and butterflies.
 |
| Black-headed Skimmer Crocothemis nigrifrons |
Back at Bajool we
found the Bajool Hotel where we planned to camp. The hotel offers free camping
in its back garden, but it was closed until 17.30. I rang the number written on
the door and the owner graciously agreed that we could set up camp. We did so,
then sat in the semi-shade until 16.45, when it had cooled down somewhat to a
mere 30 degrees……then headed out again down Port Alma road.
Birds were more
active in the slightly cooler temperature…..
We had a Spotted Harrier beside the road, a
couple of Whistling Kites, a Brown Falcon and later a Wedge-tailed Eagle. We found a pair of Black-faced Woodswallows on the wires,
two flocks of Chestnut-breasted
Mannikins, 2 Red-winged Parrots
overhead, a Leaden Flycatcher and a Blue-winged Kookaburra.
We did well on the
butterfly front with at least 8 species identified – but nothing new.
However, no Chat
or Cisticola. The wind was blowing strongly still and once again there was
little activity on the salt plains themselves. We decided to give it away and
try early tomorrow morning. Returning to the Hotel we had a couple of ciders
and a hotel dinner – after all we were camping for nothing so thought we would
repay the offer as best we could. Retiring to bed, we were in a lather of sweat
– not a breeze now, the wind had completely died off. I wondered if I’d get any
sleep, but an hour or so after, the temperature dropped to a much more
comfortable level and I crawled into my silk liner.
 |
| Bajool Hotel - where the beer is as cold as your ex-girlfriend's heart.......a fitting location. |
 |
Day 2: 7.11.16 Awake at 4. Up to coffee
and a museli bar and away before 5. Back down Port Alma rd again. Spirits were
low - both very, silently, apprehensive. Things were not looking good – but
neither voiced it.
At Gate 1 we split
up and wandered around – a few Pipits and Red-backed Fairy Wrens, but no sign of
the targets. We decided to move on, back to 12 Mile Creek and started to drive
away slowly, still scanning the salt flats. Mr P suddenly stopped and asked me had I heard that? I hadn’t – of course –
but he almost immediately found a Zitting
Cisticola on the wire fence on his side of the car and we both got quick,
identifiable views of it from the car before it flew and vanished. We did get
out and look but it didn’t re-appear. Hallelujah!! – one Australian tick each
and my first time with the species since 1975 in the Camargue in France.
On then to 12 Mile
and we walked the track along the creek bank.
 |
| Mr P and friends. |
We did see some nice birds but
not the targets. We got out onto the open saltmarsh areas and I flushed a Horsfield’s Bushlark – a nice bird
neither of us has seen a lot of and one, I think, that is vastly under-rated. Brown Songlarks were common,
song-flighting and calling continuously.
We trudged on in
the growing humidity, shirts sticking, foreheads sweating – and it was still
only 6.30.
We got to a point
approximately 2 kms in and were discussing giving it away as nothing seemed to
be changing. Mr P suggested walking another 50 or so meters and scanning from a
slightly higher point. We did and, as I finished my scan, a blurry, yellow
movement attracted my eye 100 meters away on the dry mud. It had to be one! “I’ve got one” was all I could utter -
despite having planned a much more succinct comment minutes before in the event
that I saw one. Sure enough it was a female Yellow Chat! Far OUT!! We advanced
to get better views – of course – and ended up with 4 females and a male. They
were all a bit flighty, but good views were enjoyed before they moved into the
knee-high grass and became too difficult to see properly.
 |
| female Yellow Chat |
 |
| male Yellow Chat |
While this was
going on Mr P had repeatedly called Zitting
Cisticola and, now that we were ‘finished’ with the chats, we chased them down
– seeing at least 4 birds. Their song-flighting was incredible, it went on and
on and on – very different from Golden-headed.
 |
| Zitting Cisticola |
BRILLIANT!! Both
target birds seen really well. We were very happy – on now to Eungella!!
We returned to
camp, had some breakfast, broke camp and headed north.
Our first travel
stop was at Marlborough
– we figured we’d get some coffee and fuel up. Driving the 2 ks into town a
pair of Squatter Pigeons wandered
across the road in front of us and two Apostle
birds added their species to the trip list. Coffee bought and downed, fuel
ingested, it was back on the road – for about 15 minutes when I spotted a lone Brolga in a roadside swamp and we
stopped for a quick look.
On again until we
turned off at Carmila
Beach, 30 ks or so south of Sarina.
 |
| Blue-winged Kookaburra |
Lunchtime and as we had our
sandwiches and coke a White-browed Robin
and 3 Yellow Honeyeaters put in an
appearance. On the beach a single Eastern
Curlew, 6 Caspian Terns and one Silver Gull.
 |
| White-browed Robin |
Back on the road
again and next stop was a coffee shop on the road near the turn off to Finch
Hatton Gorge – the coffee was excellent – recommend it.
We finally reached
Eungella
village at 15.45 and headed straight down Eungella Dam Road to the Diggins Rd
turn off. We stopped at two or three spots along the road and saw/heard plenty
of Wompoo Fruit, Rose-crowned Fruit
and Brown Cuckoo Doves, Topknot Pigeons
by the dozen, a couple of Black-faced
Monarchs, loads of Brown Gerygones,
Eastern Spinebill, Australian Golden Whistlers, Eastern Yellow Robins, Grey
and Rufous Fantails, but the only
Honeyeaters we could find were Lewin’s.
After some
discussion we decided to give it till 5, go back down to the bottom of the road
and walk the first section. We did – but nothing. Then, as we reached our agreed turnaround point, an appropriate sized bird flew into a nearby tree, turned its
head and, once again, I came out with the same awe-inspiring “I’ve got one”.
Yahooo – Eungella Honeyeater!!
Two lifers in one day – it’s been a while since I did that in Australia. We saw
about 6 birds in total over the next twenty minutes or so enjoying relatively
good views considering the failing light and the birds apparent preference for
thick cover.
 |
| Eungella Honeyeater - I know, its another shit photo.... |
Happily, we drove
on down Eungella Dam Rd, found the Broken River campsite, set up camp and sat
back to review the day’s events. As we settled down to sleep a Southern Boobook called in the
distance.
Day 3: 8.11.16 A much more enjoyable night due to the lower
temperatures in the mountains and we were up at 5.30 for a quick breakfast
before heading off to look at the Platypus
under the bridge. There were two animals happily feeding away, in the open,
unconcerned by us hanging over the parapet or the trucks rumbling across the
structure.
 |
| Platypus |
There was also a
trio of Saw-shelled Turtles Wollumbinia latisternum under the
bridge.
 |
| Saw-shelled Turtle Wollumbinia latisternum |
We walked up the
river side finding Large-billed and White-browed Scrubwrens, Brown Thornbill and Little Shrikethrush. Back at camp for a
second breakfast (a la Lord of the
Rings), a Common Cicadabird was in
the trees.
We set off for
Diggings Rd again and spent a fruitless hour or so looking for the E
Honeyeater. Plenty of Rose-crowned and
Wompoo Fruit Doves and Noisy Pittas calling, Topknot Pigeons circling overhead, Brown Gerygones and Scarlet Honeyeater. But no Eungella
Honeyeater
(Note: we did have
two birds fly over that could have been the target, but neither stayed around
long enough or showed well enough for positive ID).
 |
| Topknot Pigeon |
On then to a
couple of other suggested locations off Dalrymple rd – Snake and Chelman’s rds.
But neither produced the sought after species.
(Note: again at
Chelman’s a potential specimen or two flew over, but again, were
unidentifiable)
Mr P did take pictures of what I dismissed as a Common Crow
(butterfly) but turned out to be Purple
Crow – which was a new species for me.
We returned to
Eungella village and sought a coffee in a very strategically placed café with a
stupendous view down the valley towards Mackay – the coffee was good too.
Back at camp the
temperature was in the early thirties so we basically hung around camp, seeking
shade and taking pictures of butterflies, moths and dragonflies as they
presented themselves in the wet gully behind our tents. At one stage a male Ulysses flew through, stunning, but
didn’t stop for camera work unfortunately.
 |
| Bordered Rustic Cupha prosope |
 |
| Bracca matutinata |
 |
| Long-nosed Lycid Beetle Porrostoma rhipidium |
 |
| Sapphire Rockmaster Diphlebia coerulescens |
Later in the
afternoon we took a drive of about half an hour to the nearby dam, sort of at
the back of the hills. Nothing overly spectacular here apart from a feeding
flock of at least 350 Great Crested
Grebes – an awesome number far exceeding anything either of us had seen
before. I did find one interesting insect...
 |
| Australian Plague Locust Chortoicetes terminifera |
Again back at camp
and a distant Black-shouldered Kite
and Peregrine Falcon shared the same
air space briefly high over the hills.
As the afternoon
waned we tried Diggings Rd again – and again without result. The wind had
picked up too which made birding difficult as the canopy swayed and leaves
fell. We did stop at the Sky Window walk car park and managed to get
some decent photos of Wompoo and Rose-crowned Fruit Doves – absolutely
stunning birds when seen well – hard to beat for colour.
 |
| Wompoo Fruit Dove |
 |
| Rose-crowned Fruit Dove |
We had dinner then
headed back up to the Sky Window walk which we had thought might be good for
spotlighting. It wasn’t. Or at least it wasn’t tonight. It was too windy and
nothing showed.
We tried Diggings
road but again too windy. So back to the campsite and along the river
downstream from the bridge. It was much less windy here, but just as birdless.
We did find some interesting stuff, though – a frog, which I am awaiting museum
confirmation for specific identification -
PS Just received advice from the Queensland museum that, as far as they can tell from my crap photo it's most likely a Superb Semi-slug Fastosarion superba
Quite interesting actually as I'd never seen or heard of such a beast before - apparently it can't withdraw its body inside the shell - hence the 'semi-slug' I guess.
a couple of Giant King Crickets Anostostoma australasiae and an, as yet, unidentified snail.
PS Just received advice from the Queensland museum that, as far as they can tell from my crap photo it's most likely a Superb Semi-slug Fastosarion superba
Quite interesting actually as I'd never seen or heard of such a beast before - apparently it can't withdraw its body inside the shell - hence the 'semi-slug' I guess.
a couple of Giant King Crickets Anostostoma australasiae and an, as yet, unidentified snail.
 |
| Giant King Cricket Anostostoma australasiae |
Under the bridge a large
gecko was outlined against the concrete – looking rather like a cave painting.
I took some photos which were admittedly, absolute shit, but it had gone when we
returned – so, honestly, it was a real live gecko – a Eungella Broad-tailed Gecko Phyllurus
nepthys no less – as the name suggest, an extremely restricted species
known only from the national park area. It was a shame it wasn’t closer.
 |
| Eungella Broad-tailed Gecko Phyllurus nepthys |
All in all it was
a disappointing night’s spotlighting bird-wise.
Day 4: 9.11.16 We were up early and determined to give Diggings Rd
another try. Three Australian King
Parrots passed over the camp as we started the day with a morning coffee,
then it was up the road again and, again, no success, although, again, a couple of birds showed briefly
but were unidentifiable. We did add White-throated
Treecreeper and Eastern Whipbird
to our lists, as strangely enough this was the first time we had heard the latter
since arriving.
At 8.00 we had
packed up and left the campsite. Thank God we had contacted the Honeyeater the
first afternoon – the views had been good but the light poor for decent photos
and, unfortunately, Mr P had not had his camera at the time. It just shows this
bird can be easily missed. We had no idea of the number of the species present
or their entire range – just believe they must be scattered and in short
supply!
So, headed down
the range and turned off half an hour later to Finch-Hatton Gorge. This proved
to be a truly delightful spot with several shallow creek crossings – quite safe
even in a 2 wheel drive, although I would think that even a little rain would
make them impassable.
At the final
crossing the water proved too enticing and we quickly hopped in downstream from
the road and enjoyed our first bath/shower for three days. Beautiful! Exiting
and returning to the car Mr P heard a call and above us a single Barred Cuckoo-shrike was in sight for a
few minutes.
On to the end of
the road and we walked in a few hundred meters along the track to the swimming
hole. We had Eastern Spinebill, an Azure Kingfisher, a Pacific Baza, Spectacled Monarch and Mr P chased a male Ulysses down the road while I availed myself of the amenities.
 |
| Bordered Rustic Cupha prosope |
 |
| Pheasant Coucal |
We drove on to Mackay
and found our way to the Botanical Gardens. Here we had Hardhead on the lake, Blue Tigers and Bordered Rustic among the many ‘wild’ butterflies and several
species of dragonfly, some of which I am awaiting identification of…
In the fern house
we found several of the locally common Zodiac
Moths Alcides metaurus.
Apparently they rely on a single food plant and the garden staff are managing
their survival by growing the plant.
 |
| Zodiac Moth Alcides metaurus |
We also saw Green Triangles, Bordered Rustic and Orchard Swallowtail in or around the fern house. It was difficult
to know whether they could be considered ‘wild’ – they did have free rein to
come and go, they weren’t contained, as such, but still…..we ticked them
anyway.
Into Mackay proper
we found a burger joint and treated ourselves to lunch and a hang around as the
heat was, again, unbelievable and we were in no hurry to head out into it.
Eventually we did
and drove the 50m ks or so north to Cape Hillsborough to
set up camp behind the beach in a lovely setting. Fresh water on tap, sea views
and cooling wind – we sat in the latter for the rest of the afternoon watching
for Dugongs and Leatherback Turtles off shore.
After dark we
tried spotlighting again – with no more success really. A Bush Stone Curlew and two Brush-tailed
Possums were our total haul.
Day 5: 10.11.16 We were awake at 4.30 after yet another restless night
– the wind, while lovely during the day, never ceased and the flapping tents
and sweaty conditions did nothing to send us off.
However, we awoke
to a ‘tocking’ noise sounding through the campsite – “Isn’t that Large-tailed Nightjar?”
Mr P called – Yes! Yes! Yes! – and we
were out in our undergarments and running around in circles trying to pinpoint
the calling bird. We didn’t and the next call was more distant and fading.
We were on the
other side of the headland at the mangrove boardwalk shortly afterwards. Our
targets here were Broad-billed and Shining Flycatcher, Yellow Whiteye and (even
less likely) Mangrove Golden Whistler. We didn’t see any of them, not a peep,
not a whisker. Wompoo and Rose-crowned Fruit Doves were present –
but we were kinda over them having seen and heard enough at Eungella - Dusky Honeyeater, Little Shrikethrush
and White-throated Honeyeater
followed by the only Varied Triller
of the trip were recorded. We also photographed the only butterfly of our trip
that we wouldn’t get in SE Qld – Black-spotted
Flash Hypolycaena phorbas – a bit
tatty, but they were the very devil to photograph.
 |
| Black-spot Flash Hypolycaena phorbas and another new one for me..... |
 |
| Orange Bush-brown Mycalesis terminus |
On then to the
caravan park at the end of the road and a drive along the Yuibera Trail to the end of the peninsula where we had 4 Torresian Imperial Pigeons fly by.
Eventually back at
camp for that second breakfast thing which was disturbed by a small flock of Red-tailed Black Cockatoos in the brush
behind the campsite. Our final bird at Cape Hillsborough as we packed up was a pair of Olive-backed Sunbirds above the tents.
The sea, although
the usual inner reef kind of murky, looked very nice so we risked stingers and
sharks and splashed around for a while cooling off before drying in the sun
and packing up.
That was the
furthest point north we were going so we turned the rather dirty Toyota south
and headed off.
We stopped only
for coffee and fuel and arrived back at our first camp site – the Bajool Hotel
– around 16.00. We re-established relations with the owner, set up camp, had a
shower, a few drinks and a meal before crawling once again into our sweaty
tents in a dead still night for another attempt to sleep.
Day 6: 11.11.16 Jesus, another hot night and minimal sleep and we were
up at 5 and off to 12 Mile Creek for another go at the chats and
Cisticolas. Once again it was about 28 degrees when we started out at 5.15 and
the flys found us again pretty much immediately.
We found both
birds, again about two ks from the gate. This time only two Yellow Chats - a male and female who were decidedly skittish
and provided minimal opportunities for photos. In fact, they flew across the
creek and didn’t return while we were there – but we did see them fairly well.
About 4 Zitting Cisticolas showed – one quite
close – and it was nice to re-affirm the critical identification points and
appreciate the feeling of success finally cracking this species in Australia –
both of us having tried several times previously at different locations.
Walking back we had the second Spotted
Harrier of the trip, but little else new – and we were both pretty
exhausted by the heat and the lack of sleep.
Driving out the
track we flushed a Pallid Cuckoo and
picked up a Little Friarbird to add
the final two species to our trip list of 143.
7 hours and a (total
trip distance) 2,500 kms later we were back in Brisbane, 2 new ticks for me,
one for Mr P and an Australian tick each. It had been a tiring, hot, sweaty
week but well worth the effort.
5.11.16
Norman Creek, Holland Park West
Building to 35
degrees today, so kept it local and just went down the road.
Average birding,
nothing new, nothing exceptional, 21 species plus 5 species of butterfly and a
dragonfly – Common Bluetail Ischnura heterosticta.
 |
| male Common Bluetail Ischnura heterosticta. |
The creek is very
low and needs a good flushing out, hopefully we’ll get a storm soon to do just
that.
In by 6, out by 7.
Update
A few days ago I photographed a dragonfly 'down the road' at Norman Creek that I couldn't identify.
Chris B at the Queensland museum has come through again and it's a new species for me - Common Flatwing Austroagiolestes icteromelas.
I liked the photo so much I thought I'd share it.....
 |
| Common Flatwing Austroagiolestes icteromelas |
4.11.16
Oxley
A lovely bright,
warm morning. An average visit bird-wise. Lots of newly hatched butterflies
with Dainty Grass-blues by the dozen
and my first Checkered Swallowtails
of this season.
The cleared areas
along the edges of the field have been planted with dozens of stakes, each
apparently supporting an individual seedling of some sort. Unfortunately this
has reduced the grass/weed areas for Fairy-wrens, Cisticolas, Grassbirds,
Pipits and Quail not to mention butterflies - and their visibility from the
track.
 |
| Cleared areas along the trackside |
I had wound myself
up a bit, as I do, at this apparent ‘experiment’ or facetious planting and so
on the return journey I approached two dudes in the field who were recording
details of the staked plants and asked them what exactly they were doing.
They were a little
defensive at first (I wasn’t rude, but my body language obviously reflected my
thoughts) but explained that they were part of a university group assisting the
Oxley Catchment crowd who had scored federal funds to plant out the area. The
staked plants were part of a ‘Rainforest Restoration Project’ – don’t shoot me,
I’m just the messenger…
Anyway it does
sound like a positive project as they attempt to replace some of the original
lowland rainforest, maybe…..but at least it has some merit. Hopefully the birds
pushed out of the areas will find some space still in the remaining grassland.
They did mention that Mr Possingham (the Prof) is involved so I guess that’s a
positive thing.
3.11.16
North Stradbroke Island
I picked up Mr P
and we did the car/boat/bus thing on an apparently windless, calm morning. We
had a Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea Eagle and Eastern Osprey on the bay and the usual
island birds before we reached the point at 8, including a pair of Bush Stone Curlews, as usual, in the
road side bush.
 |
| Brahminy Kite |
The sea was almost
flat calm, a mild ESE breeze enabling us to sit on the grass avoiding most of
the glare. Not that there was a lot to see – a few Wedge-tailed Shearwaters loafing along above the slight swell, one Short-tailed beetling south and a pale
phase Arctic Skua was the total in
an hour of seawatching. Mr P found a Wandering
Tattler on the rocks in the Gorge and I filmed a (possible) Eastern Striped Skink Ctenotus robustus
at both the point and the café, but referred it to the Queensland Museum for
confirmation.
 |
| Poss Eastern Striped Skink Ctenotus robustus (Pt Lookout) |
 |
| Poss Eastern Striped Skink Ctenotus robustus (cafe) |
I also managed to
identify (I think!) another flower – Chilean
Pigface Carpobrotus aequilaterus – as its name suggests, an introduced
species…….as luck would have it.
 |
| Chilean Pigface Carpobrotus aequilaterus |
We adjourned to
the new café for coffee before getting the 9.55 bus and reversing our trek
home.
