Weekends That Were - November 2016

SOUTH AUSTRALIA     23 - 29.11.16

Prior to Day 1; 22.11.16 You know those nights when you have to get up early for a meeting or a flight – and you can’t sleep? Have you got everything? Is every eventuality planned for? Will you wake up in time, despite the two alarms set?

I got to bed at 10 after a whiskey and……lay awake. My mind going in circles, so much to think about, so many thoughts – not all of them about the trip – so much to worry about.

Midnight and still wide awake, no chance of sleep.

1.00am and up for another whiskey.

1.30 and I started reading.

2.00am and finally dropped off…

To wake at 3…..

Then afraid to go to sleep again, despite the need, in case I missed the 3.45 alarm.

Giving up at 3.30.

Day 1: 23.11.16 Jade and I left at 4.40, picked up Mr P and arrived at the airport at 5.15. Checked in, boarded at 5.45 and left on time at 6.15.

My mouth felt like the inside of a jock strap….then again, I’ve never actually tasted a jock strap, but I imagine that’s what it tastes like.

We landed on time in Adelaide at 9.20 and made our way to the Europcar desk in the car park. It took 45 long minutes to get our car, a brand new, dark red Mitsubishi ASX with only 295 kms on the clock. Little did they know….

We found our way to a Big W in an, apparently, run down suburb, bought a couple of camp chairs then food for the trip. Next up, a BCF store for disposable gas bottles to fit the two camping stove tops I had brought.

Then it was on the road towards Port Augusta.

Our plan:

Day 1-660 kms west to Venus Bay for the Laughing Gull.

Day 2-400 kms back to Whyalla for Western Grasswren

Day 3-450 kms northeast to Gluepot for the Scarlet-chested Parrot (+ Day 4)

Day 5-450 kms further east to Hattah-Kulkyne for Mallee Emu-wren & Striated Grasswren. (+Day 6)

Day 7-Back to Adelaide

So – we stopped in Port Augusta for a Mackers coffee – didn’t make my mouth feel any cleaner, but it did help wake me up. Mr P took over and drove on. 20 or 30 kms west of Port Augusta we stopped at a site in the middle of nowhere (between poles 252 and 257 before the Iron Knob turn off) and looked for Western Grasswren. No luck but we did have White-winged Fairy-wrens, Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters, Bluebonnets, Yellow-rumped Thornbills and a couple of Western Grey Kangaroos. A strong easterly wind made life difficult and was to be a regular feature of the next few days.

Western Grey Kangaroo

Heading on to Venus Bay, we arrived at 18.45 and had the Laughing Gull by 18.50. Very confiding. Any closer and it would have been behind us. Easy peasy. An Australian tick for Mr P. 

Mr P and The Gull

Laughing Gull

The brilliant thing about South Australia in our view was the daylight saving – dawn at 6am, light till 8pm – civilised! So much better than Queensland – dawn at 4, dark by 6…

We checked into a cabin in the caravan park - $70 – double bed, 6 bunks, microwave, kettle, stove top – all very modern and comfortable. Had dinner and discussed the plans for the next week.

Mileage = 971 (676 kms)

Day 2: 24.11.16 A good nights sleep – almost 8 hours solid. Up at 6 – dawn only just breaking.

We checked the caravan park and surrounds – but no further sign of The Gull. We assumed it came in only when there was a chance of food – in the afternoon when the fishermen returned. There were very few Silver Gulls around although the same few Pacific Gulls were hanging out with hope in their eyes.

We left at 8.00 and headed east towards Elliston. We checked the coastline there for Fairy Tern, but no luck. (My bogey bird – just can’t seem to connect with the dam thing).

Across the peninsula then to eventually arrive at Whyalla. On the way a dead lizard in the road turned out to be a Shingleback - neither of us had seen one before, unfortunately an encounter with someone else’s tyres denied us the experience of a live one.

Whyalla at 11.00 and we sought out a place to eat. The Espresso Cafe seemed to offer one of the very few options immediately available.

It was a bit like a time warp. I don’t know if it was the hours of driving at relatively high speed or what, but I felt like I’d stepped into a different dimension. The town was very quiet for a Thursday night, the streets almost deserted. Relying very much on nearby mining, maybe most of the population are transient and don’t come in much? Everything seemed to be covered in a red haze and seemed out of date – or maybe it was just me. The coffee was excellent, however, the service fast and the hot dog and baked potato were worthwhile and filled the gap nicely.

Then it was out on the road to Iron Knob for 10 ks and the beginning of our search for Western Grasswren – and the destruction of my virginity.

Yes, that’s right – I have never seen a Grasswren. I have tried for at least two species but never had a glimpse, a view, heard a squeak or seen a shadow – this was, hopefully, going to be the time.

No luck at the 10 k site, so we tried further on, approx 16ks and still no GW but we did find Slender-billed Thornbill, a tick for me and my final Australian Thornbill. Mr P located them with ‘there’s a couple of interesting looking Thornbills here…?” and interesting they turned out to be! We saw at least 4 at this location, despite the afore-mentioned wind.

Slender-billed Thornbill

On to Whyalla Conservation Park – we walked up and down and over and around Wild Dog Hill – plenty of Variegated Fairy Wrens and a mixed flock of Yellow-rumped and more Slender-billed Thornbills, Southern Whitefaces and heaps of Spiny-cheeked and Singing Honeyeaters, but no GW.

16.00 – 4 hours in and no GW. My virginity looked secure –yet again….

Back, in a final fit of desperation, to a point about 7 ks out the Iron Knob road where Mr P thought the habitat ‘looked good’. We crossed the nearby railway line and walked through really good looking GW habo, but nowt apart from a ‘new’ butterfly - Australian Painted Lady Vanessa kershawi.

Australian Painted Lady Vanessa kershawi

Shaking heads we headed back to the car.

I could tell Mr P had had enough.

5 hours is nothing in a grasswren search, but it wasn’t a new bird for him and it had been a long day. As we started to cross the railway line a bird flew low and disappeared into another bush. Mr P signalled me and we walked along the track towards it. He crouched down and then came out with another blinding ‘I’ve got one’ and I saw a quick flash of a bird disappearing at ground level into yet another patch of saltbush.

A wait quietly for a few minutes and it re-appeared bouncing around like a demented rubber ball, it posed twice in the open – no time for bins, naked eye only at about 20 meters, cocked tail, long legs, rounded body, hugely active – Western Grasswren!

At last – my first GW, my virginity lost for ever!

We decided that we would waste no more time in Whyalla – neither of us fancied spending the night in the area - so we headed off back towards Port Augusta to cut some time off tomorrow’s drive to Gluepot. On the way I booked a cabin in Port Pirie Beach Caravan Park before we stopped in Port Augusta for some more food – and a sewing kit for me to repair my trousers which had developed a tear that threatened to reveal my best parts…..

Then it was a quick stop in Mackers for a coffee for me, before the final leg to Port Pirie.

Unfortunately, we had an undesirable meeting with the local constabulary in the shape of a traffic cop who gave Mr P a Christmas present in the form of a request for a donation to the Policeman’s Christmas Party of $260 and in return he traded 2 points off his licence – all for 9 kms over the speed limit in an 110k zone. Luckily he hadn’t been around earlier in the day when I was driving…..

(NOTE WARNING – IF YOU’RE FROM INTERSTATE AND DRIVING IN SOUTH AUSTRALIA AND THERE IS A POLICE CAR STOPPED AT THE SIDE OF THE ROAD WITH IT’S STROBE LIGHTS ON YOU MUST SLOW DOWN TO 25 KMS/HR – OR RISK LOSING YOUR LICENSE)

We got to the caravan park at 20.00, checked in and paid the $68 bill, then cooked our curries in the microwave and settled in for the night – while I repaired that tear in the leg of my trousers which had been threatening to expose my nether regions…..

While we ate and sewed Mr P checked E-bird and mentioned a series of lists updated by one Steve Potter over the last few days who had, in birding vernacular, ‘cleaned up’ in SA, on the Strzelecki Track and Gluepot in particular. Mr P emailed him and asked for contact.

We started thinking that maybe we should change our plans……..

Mileage 1616 = 645 kms today, trip total = 1321 kms.

Day 3: 25.11.16 Up at dawn, good sleep. Had breakfast and checked out the water behind the caravan site – 1 Musk Duck, somehow we missed the Black Swans – inside joke….

Left at 7.15 and headed north towards Gluepot. I drove. Arrived Burra at 8.00. Everything looked closed, but the White Cedar Café was open and we had coffee there – excellent café, highly recommended. Headed on at a leisurely pace, arrived Morgan at 10.00.

About 2ks outside town we parked up at a side road near the cemetery – Ring Road - and walked out onto the saltbush plain. We found 4 Redthroats as predicted by others and a few Fairy Wrens and more Southern Whitefaces.

Then on to the entrance to Gluepot. Too early to call the guy with the info so went down to the Murray River ferry at Waikerie and sat beside the river until 12.00.

We called Steve Potter as he had suggested – and he gave us great info – then we talked about abandoning the Hattah part of the plan and going to the Strzelecki Track……..

Now remember - we were driving a 2 wheel drive SUV – therefore a bit of clearance but a rental 2 wheel drive SUV. To say I had misgivings would be an understatement. My vision of the Strzelecki Track was a tough, challenging, dangerous 4WD-only desert trek with the possibility of getting lost, dying of thirst, breaking down, getting punctures and other major concerns including damaging the 2WD rental car…

Mr P checked with Mr Potter re the condition of the track and was assured it was ‘good’. But me, having nothing to compare Mr Potter’s description with had no basis to rely on the accuracy.

Mr P had ‘done the track’ 4 times previously and so re-assured me of his confidence and risk aversion. We agreed that if it was too rough we would turn back. The big drawcard? What else – Letter-winged Kites. Mr P had missed them on four previous occasions and he was really keen. I had never in my wildest dreams believed I would see LWK anytime soon. They are a desert raptor that have to be ‘got’ at their nest site for any chance of reliability. Sure people see them elsewhere but when you have a day or two the chances of seeing one in the desert randomly are remote to say the least. The word was they were present 250 kms up the track with fledged young, but still hanging around the nest site area.

Would we go? Probably – or Mr P would leave me on the side of the road and go himself!

Could we go? Probably….

Could I be convinced? It was coming closer.

Was I acting like an old woman? YES – and Mr P probably questioned his sanity in birding with me…..

I agreed. We would do it.

Now, for some of you that might not be a huge decision, you might think ‘how pathetic’, calls himself a birder but is worried about a hire car/dying of thirst/breaking down/getting punctures/getting lost – but appreciate - for me IT WAS. End of.

But first – Scarlet-chested Parrot at Gluepot - so we headed in.

Half way in along the sandy track we came across two Shinglebacks Tiliqua rugosa aspera in the road - brilliant! A lizard I have long wanted to see (live), just brilliant!

Shingleback Tiliqua rugosa aspera

We stopped at the Gypsum-Lunette walk, 14 ks outside Gluepot itself, where the Parrot had reportedly bred – common knowledge now I believe - and walked in. We believed we found the SCP nest tree – but no birds. Quite hot – 29 degrees in the car when we walked out. Not much happening bird-wise.

On to Gluepot HQ at about 13.00. Checked out the place, then drove to track 8, north, beside the Grasswren Tank and parked up.  We had heard a SCP had been seen in the vicinity but were feeling a lot less optimistic. Bit of a needle in the haystack now that the birds had left the nest area.

I rested for a while and Mr P wandered around finding stuff like White-browed Treecreeper, Chestnut-rumped Thornbills, Painted Dragon and others.

Chestnut-rumped Thornbill 

Painted Dragon x Mr P 

White-browed Treecreeper

I found what I believe was a Barred Wedge-tailed Ctenotus Ctenotus schomburgkii – although it does not appear on the Gluepot list.

Barred Wedge-tailed Ctenotus Ctenotus schomburgkii

The track to the campsite we had chosen was impassable in our 2 wheel drive SUV (!!) due to a large wet muddy area so we decided to just camp beside the track near the Grasswren Tank, figuring we would pitch late and pack up early and no one would be any the wiser. However, when we visited the nearby hide, and aware that the temperature would drop to about 8 degrees overnight, I suggested that we sleep in the hide itself rather than pitch our tents.

So at 18.30 we ate and then bedded down on the wooden floor in the hide for a remarkably comfortable night’s sleep.

Mileage = 1953. Today = 337 ks. Total = 1658 ks.

Day 4: 26.11.16 It was a good night’s sleep – probably warmer in the hide, than in the tent! Up at 5.45, had coffee, tea & breakfast. Walked Track 8 – very, very quiet even after dawn. Heard a Crested Bellbird and Grey Shrikethrush, saw a few Chestnut-rumped Thornbills.

Left the site at 7.15 and drove to the headquarters nearly getting clocked by a Red Kangaroo on the way… Checked the board, paid for the ‘camping’ and headed out. Stopped at the Gypsum-Lunette walk and walked in to the same place as yesterday. Nothing much going on. Met two other birders there who pointed out the actual SCP breeding tree – we had got it wrong by about 100 meters. Didn’t matter – there were no parrots, in fact there was nothing around at all. Oh we did see a Weebil and photographed a Mallee Military Dragon Ctenophorus fordi and a Slender Gumleaf Grasshopper Goniaea vocals

Mallee Military Dragon Ctenophorus fordi 

Slender Gumleaf Grasshopper Goniaea vocals

Back to the car and headed out at 9.00. Reached Burra at 11.00 and had a second breakfast at the White Cedar Café. Fuel-ed up ($1.17/litre) and headed north at 11.45. Just before Hawker a large flock of Pipits on the road looked like Chats, but weren’t, but two Chirruping Wedgebills joined them on the tarmac and a Brown Falcon flew by. Black Kites in abundance along the roads.

Fuel-ed and coffee-ed up in Hawker ($1.43/litre) and we arrived at Lyndhurst Hotel – the start of the Strzelecki - at 16.30.

Checked in – Mr P booked a room ($50/night), I decided to camp ($15/night). Fuel-ed up the car and filled a jerrycan ($40) with 20 litres as a precaution ($1.66/litre). Set up tent for me and relaxed, after a shower, in the air con in Mr P’s room.

When it was a little cooler, around 19.00, we headed out to the airfield on a tip-off from the publican. A tour group of 3 were already on site with Peter Wanderers and we locked onto the same target they were on – Inland Dotterel. A lifer for me. A single adult with a well fledged chick. The bird was relatively distant and the light too poor for photography, but still a stunning bird. We’ll try again tomorrow night.

We had a beer, then crashed – me in my tent, Mr P in his room.

Day 5: 27.11.16 Up at 4.45 after a good night – not too hot, surprisingly not cold. Quick coffee and oats, then off on The Strzelecki.

I was REALLY worried, apprehensive, and nervous, not really knowing what the road conditions were, how the car would handle it, being only a 2 wheel drive. Worried about damage and insurance and rental agreements …. however, the birds were calling us on and we were committed (or should be….)

We had decided to go the furthest distance then bird on the way back. The furthest distance was approx 30 ks past the Montecollina Bore. The Montecollina Bore was approx 200 kms away.

The first 50 kms was in the breaking dawn and there were hundreds of kangaroos trying to take us out. They really are pretty brainless- almost always insisting on crossing right in front of you when they should just be running (hopping) the other direction. Mainly Red Kangaroos, most appeared to be female.

There were 5 or 6 stretches of bitumen in that 200 k run each between 5 and 8 kms long. No idea why they have chosen to put a good road surface down in a particular spot – we couldn’t see any difference in the general area, but there they were and it was a pleasure to get off the stones for a few minutes.

And that was it – the rest was stony, hard packed mud or gravelly surface. Mr P drove and our first stop was for a couple of Australian Pratincoles on one of the stretches of bitumen. Then it was on and on and on…..we kept the speed to about 80ks, slower when the surface demanded it

We only came across three road trains going the other way and pulled into the side of the road as they passed. They were doing about 70-80 ks and all was good.

A couple of videos of driving the Strzelecki Track

https://youtu.be/enb8b-CvtV8

https://youtu.be/A_iNgKZ8Ibo

It was 8.45 and 217 kms before we passed the Bore.15 minutes later and another 26kms and we were checking the trees when Mr P shouted “THERE’S 3 OF THEM!” and three Letter-winged Kites flew out of the nearest tree, right beside the road and circled above.

Much jubilation, with appropriate hand shaking and cursing and swearing. Arguably the hardest raptor in Australia and the final Australian raptor for both our lists. Given the fact that this was Mr P’s 5^th attempt it’s not hard to imagine the carry on in the Mitsubishi. I was just so pleased to be with him to share in his excitement – and get off on them myself, of course!

And what a stunning bird! Just unbelievable, the eyes huge in the face, the clean lines of grey and white and black – just one of the best birds I have ever seen.

I scanned further up the road and spotted two well fledged juveniles in a second tree on the left. One of us also spotted an adult in a tree on the right and we drove up slowly and photographed them from the car.

Letter-winged Kite - adult 

Letter-winged Kite - juvenile

Mr P and Letter-winged Kites - at last!

A couple of videos of the Kites. First the juvenile, second the adults.

https://youtu.be/EIY31bAMxIs

https://youtu.be/F72fWBZHRbw

After 45 minutes we decided that it was probably best to leave them so others coming today could enjoy them and we headed back. In total we believe we had 7 birds, 3 adults and 4 juveniles.

We stopped at Montecollina Bore and had some lunch surrounded by Australian Ravens, Little Corellas and hundreds of Zebra Finches - Oh and one Australian Shelduck..

Australian Shelduck

Heading back we stopped at a likely sand dune and searched for Eyrean Grasswren. I was lucky enough to see two – only running and naked eye, but enough. My virginity now in tatters….

Mr P at Eyrean Grasswren site

x Mr P

We then started the long trek back to Lyndhurst, stopping to check areas of gibber for Gibberbird and Cinammon Quail Thrush without success. We also investigated the Whiteface location at Lyndhurst station in preparation for tomorrow morning. Mr P had organised access the night before but it was 32 degrees and nothing was moving.

Back at Lyndhurst, 488 kms round trip, we relaxed with a coke and air con, showered and had dinner before re-visiting the Inland Dotterel site at the airfield. Disappointingly we had no luck there and returned to Mr P’s room & updated the log before crashing.

It really had been a bit of a dawdle. The surface no worse than a lot of unsealed tracks we have driven over the years – and better than some. My panic and fear now looked ridiculously naiive, but…. I have to say I make no excuse for it. It was all reasonable. I am just pathetic, that’s it!

Morning start = 2557

The Bore = +218

Kite city = +243

Lyndhurst end = 497

Total mileage = 3054. Today = 497. Trip total = 2759.

Day 6: 28.11.16 Up at 5.30, breakfast, then away at 6. 27.2 kms to the ‘rusty car site’. Peter Wanderers and crew were already on site. 

The famous old rusty car wreck

We didn’t talk to them, but wandered around searching for the Chestnut-breasted Whiteface – without success. We did have a Rufous Fieldwren and White-winged Fairy Wrens, but nothing else.

Left there and drove back towards Lyndhurst. About 100 meters up the road a bird flew across, low, flaired, almost landed but continued around behind the car to the original side. A Cinammon Quail Thrush - my sixth trip tick. We stopped, hopped out and looked but could not re-locate. Continued on another few hundred meters then pulled in on the left and started searching the flat and low hills for more Quail-thrush – again, no success. Mr P did flush a Spotted Nightjar which circled us and landed a couple of times providing great flight and brief ground views. Returned to the car and crossed the road, driving in to the old mine site on Lyndhurst station. Searched again for the Whiteface with the same, dismal result.

Rufous Fieldwren 

Spotted Nightjar by Mr P

While we were heading back to Lyndhurst Mr P proposed going to Maree, 78 kms up the road and trying the first 18-20 kms of the Birdsville track for Gibberbird. I agreed. We packed quickly and left at 9.50, arriving at the Birdsville at 10.45. On the way we saw several and I managed to catch a Central Bearded Dragon Pogona vitticeps on the road.

Central Bearded Dragon Pogona vitticeps

Driving out the track – similar in surface to the Strzelecki - we came across a mixed flock of Australian Pipits, Orange Chats and, as it turned out, a White-plumed Honeyeater. We tried on several areas of gibber, but had no luck with the target bird.

Returned to Maree and headed south.

Picked up $50 worth of fuel at Leigh Creek ($1.47/litre) then headed on to Hawker. Had a coffee, then swopped seats and I drove the rest of the way to Port Pirie where we booked into the same caravan park as Thursday night - $68.

Total mileage = 3690. Today = 596. Trip total = 3395.

Day 7: 29.11.16 Breakfast over, we dumped our remaining food, the two camping chairs, the nearly full gas cylinders and the emergency petrol container and headed into town to wash the car. That done, we went to Mackers for breakfast, then headed towards Adelaide. I drove and kept the speed down to the speed limit – I didn’t feel like contributing any more to the Policeman’s Ball….

We fuelled up at Port Wakefield ($1.18/litre) and Mr P took over as I used the iPad to find a couple of potential sites for that dammed Fairy Tern.

We tried Bald Hill Beach - tide way, way out, but we saw a couple more Shinglebacks and at least two male White-fronted Chats (we’ve now seen all the Australian chats this year); Thompson Beach and Port Gawler. Then on to St Kilda (2 Grey-tailed Tattlers to add to the trip list) and finally Henley Beach. We had lunch at a Greek restaurant, Nepenthe, at Henley Square – very trendy – then drove along the sea front to the mouth of the Torrens river, again, without any FT success.

We topped up the car, (1.06/litre) packed the bags and dropped the car off at the airport at 16.00. We had a relatively long wait for our flight’s boarding at 18.30, then it was a smooth, half-filled flight to arrive back in Brisbane at 21.00.

Total mileage = 4006. Today = 316. Trip total = 3711.

Job done.

21.11.16

Norman Creek, Holland Park West

Bright sunny morning – the place looked very quiet for the first 10 or 15 minutes, seemed to be dominated by Noisy Miners.

Then surprise, surprise two Australian King Parrots flew in! One female, one juvenile male. They landed in the big trees, then flew around for a few minutes before, apparently disappearing along the creek line heading south. Not a bird I would have looked for, but, given their numbers in and around the bushland at Mt Gravatt, it’s probably one I should have expected. No 74 on the list – a list, incidentally, that does not include Rock Pigeon……

I also had a Little Friarbird calling enthusiastically and a White-browed Scrubwren – both birds not seen commonly in Holland Park west. A Laughing Kookaburra sitting quietly was aggressively assaulted by a pair of Willy Wagtails – even landing on its back – until it departed in disgust and a small feeding flock of 4 Blue-faced Honeyeaters moved along the creek line.

19.11.16

Anstead

Another still, warm, low cloud, sun struggling through a haze kind of morning where everything seems muted and activity is low – and it was. A squabbling pair of Laughing Kookaburras at the top of the first section of track was interesting. The brawl ended up with one held suspended by its bill locked in with the other’s for several seconds before they both released their grip.

Laughing Kookaburras fighting - pretty shite photo, but the action didn't last long.

Two separate White-winged Trillers seen very poorly high in the canopy and a single Little Bronze Cuckoo were best birds. I found a small skink under a rock and have submitted it for confirmation ID to the long-suffering museum staff. A large spider suspended in its web at the fence line was a Dome Tent Spider Cyrtophora molucensis.

Dome Tent Spider Cyrtophora molucensis.

Even the butterflies were lazy – a few Monarchs, a couple of Glasswings and the usual Meadow Argus looking battered and weary.

I finished up after 2.15 hours at 8.15 and headed home.

Update

I had photographed some 'stuff' that I needed help identifying and Mr B and the Queensland museum have come through..

Common Glider Tramea loewii  from Mackay Botanical Gardens 

Eastern Stony Creek Frog Litoria wilcoxii at the northern limit of its range in Eungella NP

Orange Threadtail Nososticta solida - Eungella NP 

Spotted Spur-throated Locust Austracris basalis

17.11.16

Oxley

A still, cloudy morning. Fairly quiet along the track, the usual birds – typical for this time of year. As the morning progressed the sun came out and the butterflies picked up – an increased number of Lesser Wanderer Danaus chrysippus and dozens of Common Grass-blues Zizinia labradus along the grass track to the ponds where a Dusky Moorhen with 4 chicks was a sure sign of breeding again. On the return walk a Blue Tiger Tirumala harnata was a new site species for me in this life, but, other than that, a fairly average morning.

16.11.16

Norman Creek, Holland Park West

Bright sunny morning, not too hot, not too sweaty. Someone had been and cut most of the grass in the main field, reducing dramatically the number and range of butterflies – and killing an adult Common Blue Tongue lizard while they were at it.

The birds were on the quiet side, no waterbirds at all and only 17 species in total.

I did photograph one of two butterflies - Cabbage White Pieris rapae

Cabbage White Pieris rapae

And a Humped Golden Orb Weaver Nephila plumipes. Note the male in the top middle of the photo - tiny in comparison....sometimes the way I feel......

Humped Golden Orb Weaver Nephila plumipes.

13.11.16

Minnippi

I decided to check the local patch despite the predicted 35 degrees. It was very warm and sweaty even at 6.30 when I arrived. Humidity must have been in excess of 80%.

Nothing much to report, most of the usual birds and butterflies, nothing out of the ordinary.

I finished at 8.30 and headed home for, hopefully, a cooler lounge room.

6 - 11.11.16

Road Trip - Rockhampton/Mackay

Day 1: 6.11.16: Mr P picked me up at 6 and we hit the road.

First stop was Maryborough, turning off the main road, for a Mackers coffee. Thousands of Caper Whites committed mass suicide on the traffic all the way to Gympie.

Second stop – a roadside, gravelly area for a cold drink and munchies just before Calliope.

Third stop – fuel at Calliope itself.

We reached the 12 Mile Creek turnoff a few ks past Mt Larcom at about 13.00 and found our way down 12 Mile Creek road to the track beside the creek itself. The car was showing a temperature of 39 degrees and it was f….. hot out of the air conditioning.

Needless to say nothing was moving, apart from butterflies, so we decided to leave the walk along the track for tomorrow morning and headed to Port Alma road.

Our target here was Yellow Chat and Zitting Cisticola. When we stopped at Gate 1 the car was telling us – don’t be stupid its 40 degrees outside! 40 degrees?? F… me!

A hot northerly was blowing across the salt flats and, again, virtually nothing was moving. A few Australian Pipits showed and a Golden-headed Cisticola stuck its head up for a minute or two, but that was it. We explored the road a few ks further on, but turned back soon enough.

Stopping at a roadside billabong we had 4 Cotton Pygmy Geese, Comb-crested Jacana, Black Swans (!), three Wandering Whistle Ducks and a few dragonflies and butterflies.

Black-headed Skimmer Crocothemis nigrifrons

Back at Bajool we found the Bajool Hotel where we planned to camp. The hotel offers free camping in its back garden, but it was closed until 17.30. I rang the number written on the door and the owner graciously agreed that we could set up camp. We did so, then sat in the semi-shade until 16.45, when it had cooled down somewhat to a mere 30 degrees……then headed out again down Port Alma road.

Birds were more active in the slightly cooler temperature…..

We had a Spotted Harrier beside the road, a couple of Whistling Kites, a Brown Falcon and later a Wedge-tailed Eagle. We found a pair of Black-faced Woodswallows on the wires, two flocks of Chestnut-breasted Mannikins, 2 Red-winged Parrots overhead, a Leaden Flycatcher and a Blue-winged Kookaburra.

We did well on the butterfly front with at least 8 species identified – but nothing new.

However, no Chat or Cisticola. The wind was blowing strongly still and once again there was little activity on the salt plains themselves. We decided to give it away and try early tomorrow morning. Returning to the Hotel we had a couple of ciders and a hotel dinner – after all we were camping for nothing so thought we would repay the offer as best we could. Retiring to bed, we were in a lather of sweat – not a breeze now, the wind had completely died off. I wondered if I’d get any sleep, but an hour or so after, the temperature dropped to a much more comfortable level and I crawled into my silk liner.

Bajool Hotel - where the beer is as cold as your ex-girlfriend's heart.......a fitting location.

Day 2: 7.11.16 Awake at 4. Up to coffee and a museli bar and away before 5. Back down Port Alma rd again. Spirits were low - both very, silently, apprehensive. Things were not looking good – but neither voiced it.

At Gate 1 we split up and wandered around – a few Pipits and Red-backed Fairy Wrens, but no sign of the targets. We decided to move on, back to 12 Mile Creek and started to drive away slowly, still scanning the salt flats. Mr P suddenly stopped and asked me had I heard that? I hadn’t – of course – but he almost immediately found a Zitting Cisticola on the wire fence on his side of the car and we both got quick, identifiable views of it from the car before it flew and vanished. We did get out and look but it didn’t re-appear. Hallelujah!! – one Australian tick each and my first time with the species since 1975 in the Camargue in France.

On then to 12 Mile and we walked the track along the creek bank. 

Mr P and friends.

We did see some nice birds but not the targets. We got out onto the open saltmarsh areas and I flushed a Horsfield’s Bushlark – a nice bird neither of us has seen a lot of and one, I think, that is vastly under-rated. Brown Songlarks were common, song-flighting and calling continuously.

We trudged on in the growing humidity, shirts sticking, foreheads sweating – and it was still only 6.30.

We got to a point approximately 2 kms in and were discussing giving it away as nothing seemed to be changing. Mr P suggested walking another 50 or so meters and scanning from a slightly higher point. We did and, as I finished my scan, a blurry, yellow movement attracted my eye 100 meters away on the dry mud. It had to be one! “I’ve got one” was all I could utter - despite having planned a much more succinct comment minutes before in the event that I saw one. Sure enough it was a female Yellow Chat! Far OUT!! We advanced to get better views – of course – and ended up with 4 females and a male. They were all a bit flighty, but good views were enjoyed before they moved into the knee-high grass and became too difficult to see properly.

female Yellow Chat 

male Yellow Chat 

While this was going on Mr P had repeatedly called Zitting Cisticola and, now that we were ‘finished’ with the chats, we chased them down – seeing at least 4 birds. Their song-flighting was incredible, it went on and on and on – very different from Golden-headed.

Zitting Cisticola

BRILLIANT!! Both target birds seen really well. We were very happy – on now to Eungella!!

We returned to camp, had some breakfast, broke camp and headed north.

Our first travel stop was at Marlborough – we figured we’d get some coffee and fuel up. Driving the 2 ks into town a pair of Squatter Pigeons wandered across the road in front of us and two Apostle birds added their species to the trip list. Coffee bought and downed, fuel ingested, it was back on the road – for about 15 minutes when I spotted a lone Brolga in a roadside swamp and we stopped for a quick look.

On again until we turned off at Carmila Beach, 30 ks or so south of Sarina. 

Blue-winged Kookaburra

Lunchtime and as we had our sandwiches and coke a White-browed Robin and 3 Yellow Honeyeaters put in an appearance. On the beach a single Eastern Curlew, 6 Caspian Terns and one Silver Gull.

White-browed Robin

Back on the road again and next stop was a coffee shop on the road near the turn off to Finch Hatton Gorge – the coffee was excellent – recommend it.

We finally reached Eungella village at 15.45 and headed straight down Eungella Dam Road to the Diggins Rd turn off. We stopped at two or three spots along the road and saw/heard plenty of Wompoo Fruit, Rose-crowned Fruit and Brown Cuckoo Doves, Topknot Pigeons by the dozen, a couple of Black-faced Monarchs, loads of Brown Gerygones, Eastern Spinebill, Australian Golden Whistlers, Eastern Yellow Robins, Grey and Rufous Fantails, but the only Honeyeaters we could find were Lewin’s.

After some discussion we decided to give it till 5, go back down to the bottom of the road and walk the first section. We did – but nothing. Then, as we reached our agreed turnaround point, an appropriate sized bird flew into a nearby tree, turned its head and, once again, I came out with the same awe-inspiring “I’ve got one”.

Yahooo – Eungella Honeyeater!! Two lifers in one day – it’s been a while since I did that in Australia. We saw about 6 birds in total over the next twenty minutes or so enjoying relatively good views considering the failing light and the birds apparent preference for thick cover.

Eungella Honeyeater - I know, its another shit photo....

Happily, we drove on down Eungella Dam Rd, found the Broken River campsite, set up camp and sat back to review the day’s events. As we settled down to sleep a Southern Boobook called in the distance.

Day 3: 8.11.16 A much more enjoyable night due to the lower temperatures in the mountains and we were up at 5.30 for a quick breakfast before heading off to look at the Platypus under the bridge. There were two animals happily feeding away, in the open, unconcerned by us hanging over the parapet or the trucks rumbling across the structure.

Platypus

There was also a trio of Saw-shelled Turtles Wollumbinia latisternum under the bridge.

Saw-shelled Turtle Wollumbinia latisternum

We walked up the river side finding Large-billed and White-browed Scrubwrens, Brown Thornbill and Little Shrikethrush. Back at camp for a second breakfast (a la Lord of the Rings), a Common Cicadabird was in the trees.

We set off for Diggings Rd again and spent a fruitless hour or so looking for the E Honeyeater. Plenty of Rose-crowned and Wompoo Fruit Doves and Noisy Pittas calling, Topknot Pigeons circling overhead, Brown Gerygones and Scarlet Honeyeater. But no Eungella Honeyeater

(Note: we did have two birds fly over that could have been the target, but neither stayed around long enough or showed well enough for positive ID).

Topknot Pigeon

On then to a couple of other suggested locations off Dalrymple rd – Snake and Chelman’s rds. But neither produced the sought after species.

(Note: again at Chelman’s a potential specimen or two flew over, but again, were unidentifiable) 

Mr P did take pictures of what I dismissed as a Common Crow (butterfly) but turned out to be Purple Crow – which was a new species for me.

We returned to Eungella village and sought a coffee in a very strategically placed café with a stupendous view down the valley towards Mackay – the coffee was good too.

Back at camp the temperature was in the early thirties so we basically hung around camp, seeking shade and taking pictures of butterflies, moths and dragonflies as they presented themselves in the wet gully behind our tents. At one stage a male Ulysses flew through, stunning, but didn’t stop for camera work unfortunately.

Bordered Rustic Cupha prosope 

Bracca matutinata 

Long-nosed Lycid Beetle Porrostoma rhipidium 

Sapphire Rockmaster Diphlebia coerulescens

Later in the afternoon we took a drive of about half an hour to the nearby dam, sort of at the back of the hills. Nothing overly spectacular here apart from a feeding flock of at least 350 Great Crested Grebes – an awesome number far exceeding anything either of us had seen before. I did find one interesting insect...

Australian Plague Locust Chortoicetes terminifera

Again back at camp and a distant Black-shouldered Kite and Peregrine Falcon shared the same air space briefly high over the hills.

As the afternoon waned we tried Diggings Rd again – and again without result. The wind had picked up too which made birding difficult as the canopy swayed and leaves fell. We did stop at the Sky Window walk car park and managed to get some decent photos of Wompoo and Rose-crowned Fruit Doves – absolutely stunning birds when seen well – hard to beat for colour.

Wompoo Fruit Dove 

Rose-crowned Fruit Dove

We had dinner then headed back up to the Sky Window walk which we had thought might be good for spotlighting. It wasn’t. Or at least it wasn’t tonight. It was too windy and nothing showed.

We tried Diggings road but again too windy. So back to the campsite and along the river downstream from the bridge. It was much less windy here, but just as birdless. We did find some interesting stuff, though – a frog, which I am awaiting museum confirmation for specific identification - 
PS Just received advice from the Queensland museum that, as far as they can tell from my crap photo it's most likely a Superb Semi-slug Fastosarion superba
Quite interesting actually as I'd never seen or heard of such a beast before - apparently it can't withdraw its body inside the shell - hence the 'semi-slug' I guess.

a couple of Giant King Crickets Anostostoma australasiae and an, as yet, unidentified snail. 

Giant King Cricket Anostostoma australasiae

Under the bridge a large gecko was outlined against the concrete – looking rather like a cave painting. I took some photos which were admittedly, absolute shit, but it had gone when we returned – so, honestly, it was a real live gecko – a Eungella Broad-tailed Gecko Phyllurus nepthys no less – as the name suggest, an extremely restricted species known only from the national park area. It was a shame it wasn’t closer.

Eungella Broad-tailed Gecko Phyllurus nepthys

All in all it was a disappointing night’s spotlighting bird-wise.

Day 4: 9.11.16 We were up early and determined to give Diggings Rd another try. Three Australian King Parrots passed over the camp as we started the day with a morning coffee, then it was up the road again and, again, no success, although, again, a couple of birds showed briefly but were unidentifiable. We did add White-throated Treecreeper and Eastern Whipbird to our lists, as strangely enough this was the first time we had heard the latter since arriving.

At 8.00 we had packed up and left the campsite. Thank God we had contacted the Honeyeater the first afternoon – the views had been good but the light poor for decent photos and, unfortunately, Mr P had not had his camera at the time. It just shows this bird can be easily missed. We had no idea of the number of the species present or their entire range – just believe they must be scattered and in short supply!

So, headed down the range and turned off half an hour later to Finch-Hatton Gorge. This proved to be a truly delightful spot with several shallow creek crossings – quite safe even in a 2 wheel drive, although I would think that even a little rain would make them impassable.

At the final crossing the water proved too enticing and we quickly hopped in downstream from the road and enjoyed our first bath/shower for three days. Beautiful! Exiting and returning to the car Mr P heard a call and above us a single Barred Cuckoo-shrike was in sight for a few minutes.

On to the end of the road and we walked in a few hundred meters along the track to the swimming hole. We had Eastern Spinebill, an Azure Kingfisher, a Pacific Baza, Spectacled Monarch and Mr P chased a male Ulysses down the road while I availed myself of the amenities.

Bordered Rustic Cupha prosope 

Pheasant Coucal

We drove on to Mackay and found our way to the Botanical Gardens. Here we had Hardhead on the lake, Blue Tigers and Bordered Rustic among the many ‘wild’ butterflies and several species of dragonfly, some of which I am awaiting identification of…

In the fern house we found several of the locally common Zodiac Moths Alcides metaurus. Apparently they rely on a single food plant and the garden staff are managing their survival by growing the plant. 

Zodiac Moth Alcides metaurus

We also saw Green Triangles, Bordered Rustic and Orchard Swallowtail in or around the fern house. It was difficult to know whether they could be considered ‘wild’ – they did have free rein to come and go, they weren’t contained, as such, but still…..we ticked them anyway.

Into Mackay proper we found a burger joint and treated ourselves to lunch and a hang around as the heat was, again, unbelievable and we were in no hurry to head out into it.

Eventually we did and drove the 50m ks or so north to Cape Hillsborough to set up camp behind the beach in a lovely setting. Fresh water on tap, sea views and cooling wind – we sat in the latter for the rest of the afternoon watching for Dugongs and Leatherback Turtles off shore.

After dark we tried spotlighting again – with no more success really. A Bush Stone Curlew and two Brush-tailed Possums were our total haul.

Day 5: 10.11.16 We were awake at 4.30 after yet another restless night – the wind, while lovely during the day, never ceased and the flapping tents and sweaty conditions did nothing to send us off.

However, we awoke to a ‘tocking’ noise sounding through the campsite – “Isn’t that Large-tailed Nightjar?” Mr P called – Yes! Yes! Yes! – and we were out in our undergarments and running around in circles trying to pinpoint the calling bird. We didn’t and the next call was more distant and fading.

We were on the other side of the headland at the mangrove boardwalk shortly afterwards. Our targets here were Broad-billed and Shining Flycatcher, Yellow Whiteye and (even less likely) Mangrove Golden Whistler. We didn’t see any of them, not a peep, not a whisker. Wompoo and Rose-crowned Fruit Doves were present – but we were kinda over them having seen and heard enough at Eungella - Dusky Honeyeater, Little Shrikethrush and White-throated Honeyeater followed by the only Varied Triller of the trip were recorded. We also photographed the only butterfly of our trip that we wouldn’t get in SE Qld – Black-spotted Flash Hypolycaena phorbas – a bit tatty, but they were the very devil to photograph.

Black-spot Flash Hypolycaena phorbas

and another new one for me.....

Orange Bush-brown Mycalesis terminus

On then to the caravan park at the end of the road and a drive along the Yuibera Trail to the end of the peninsula where we had 4 Torresian Imperial Pigeons fly by.

Eventually back at camp for that second breakfast thing which was disturbed by a small flock of Red-tailed Black Cockatoos in the brush behind the campsite. Our final bird at Cape Hillsborough as we packed up was a pair of Olive-backed Sunbirds above the tents.

The sea, although the usual inner reef kind of murky, looked very nice so we risked stingers and sharks and splashed around for a while cooling off before drying in the sun and packing up.

That was the furthest point north we were going so we turned the rather dirty Toyota south and headed off.

We stopped only for coffee and fuel and arrived back at our first camp site – the Bajool Hotel – around 16.00. We re-established relations with the owner, set up camp, had a shower, a few drinks and a meal before crawling once again into our sweaty tents in a dead still night for another attempt to sleep.

Day 6: 11.11.16 Jesus, another hot night and minimal sleep and we were up at 5 and off to 12 Mile Creek for another go at the chats and Cisticolas. Once again it was about 28 degrees when we started out at 5.15 and the flys found us again pretty much immediately.

We found both birds, again about two ks from the gate. This time only two Yellow Chats -  a male and female who were decidedly skittish and provided minimal opportunities for photos. In fact, they flew across the creek and didn’t return while we were there – but we did see them fairly well.

About 4 Zitting Cisticolas showed – one quite close – and it was nice to re-affirm the critical identification points and appreciate the feeling of success finally cracking this species in Australia – both of us having tried several times previously at different locations. Walking back we had the second Spotted Harrier of the trip, but little else new – and we were both pretty exhausted by the heat and the lack of sleep.

Driving out the track we flushed a Pallid Cuckoo and picked up a Little Friarbird to add the final two species to our trip list of 143.

7 hours and a (total trip distance) 2,500 kms later we were back in Brisbane, 2 new ticks for me, one for Mr P and an Australian tick each. It had been a tiring, hot, sweaty week but well worth the effort.

5.11.16

Norman Creek, Holland Park West

Building to 35 degrees today, so kept it local and just went down the road.

Average birding, nothing new, nothing exceptional, 21 species plus 5 species of butterfly and a dragonfly – Common Bluetail Ischnura heterosticta.

male Common Bluetail Ischnura heterosticta.

The creek is very low and needs a good flushing out, hopefully we’ll get a storm soon to do just that.

In by 6, out by 7.

Update

A few days ago I photographed a dragonfly 'down the road' at Norman Creek that I couldn't identify.

Chris B at the Queensland museum has come through again and it's a new species for me - Common Flatwing Austroagiolestes icteromelas.

I liked the photo so much I thought I'd share it.....

Common Flatwing Austroagiolestes icteromelas

4.11.16

Oxley

A lovely bright, warm morning. An average visit bird-wise. Lots of newly hatched butterflies with Dainty Grass-blues by the dozen and my first Checkered Swallowtails of this season.

The cleared areas along the edges of the field have been planted with dozens of stakes, each apparently supporting an individual seedling of some sort. Unfortunately this has reduced the grass/weed areas for Fairy-wrens, Cisticolas, Grassbirds, Pipits and Quail not to mention butterflies - and their visibility from the track.

Cleared areas along the trackside

I had wound myself up a bit, as I do, at this apparent ‘experiment’ or facetious planting and so on the return journey I approached two dudes in the field who were recording details of the staked plants and asked them what exactly they were doing.

They were a little defensive at first (I wasn’t rude, but my body language obviously reflected my thoughts) but explained that they were part of a university group assisting the Oxley Catchment crowd who had scored federal funds to plant out the area. The staked plants were part of a ‘Rainforest Restoration Project’ – don’t shoot me, I’m just the messenger…

Anyway it does sound like a positive project as they attempt to replace some of the original lowland rainforest, maybe…..but at least it has some merit. Hopefully the birds pushed out of the areas will find some space still in the remaining grassland. They did mention that Mr Possingham (the Prof) is involved so I guess that’s a positive thing.

3.11.16

North Stradbroke Island

I picked up Mr P and we did the car/boat/bus thing on an apparently windless, calm morning. We had a Brahminy Kite, White-bellied Sea Eagle and Eastern Osprey on the bay and the usual island birds before we reached the point at 8, including a pair of Bush Stone Curlews, as usual, in the road side bush.

Brahminy Kite

The sea was almost flat calm, a mild ESE breeze enabling us to sit on the grass avoiding most of the glare. Not that there was a lot to see – a few Wedge-tailed Shearwaters loafing along above the slight swell, one Short-tailed beetling south and a pale phase Arctic Skua was the total in an hour of seawatching. Mr P found a Wandering Tattler on the rocks in the Gorge and I filmed a (possible) Eastern Striped Skink Ctenotus robustus at both the point and the café, but referred it to the Queensland Museum for confirmation.

Poss Eastern Striped Skink Ctenotus robustus (Pt Lookout)

Poss Eastern Striped Skink Ctenotus robustus (cafe)

I also managed to identify (I think!) another flower – Chilean Pigface Carpobrotus aequilaterus – as its name suggests, an introduced species…….as luck would have it.

Chilean Pigface Carpobrotus aequilaterus

We adjourned to the new café for coffee before getting the 9.55 bus and reversing our trek home.