Weekends That Were - September 2019

Canada & the USA

Day 1 – 11.9.19

The next adventure started with Leon and Didi. 

I had decided to try Didi (instead of Uber) for a couple of reasons. 

Firstly they offered me a 50% reduction on the cost of my first couple of trips – not sure how that will work out though, read on – and secondly because I wanted to talk to the driver and find out how Didi was going. As I expected, Leon was an Uber driver as well and so that part of my plan worked out well. And talk? He never stopped. He also never got near the speed limit which I found a little frustrating and it took a full hour to get to the airport. In his defense I’d chosen NOT to use the toll tunnels and it was 7.30 and the traffic was heavy, but he made no effort to speed the ride up and I suspect the end result will be more expensive than if I’d used the tunnels…

However, he was full of praise for Didi and convinced me that I would join them on my (presumably safe) return in November. So it was probably money worth spending.

At the airport the bag drop was very quick and efficient – so much so, in fact, that I was left a little dazed and it all felt like a dream. Its probably because I’ve been thinking, planning and worrying about this trip so much that it has become a bit….unreal in a way. I waltzed through security and passport checks, grabbed a coffee from the usual place and grounded myself in the outdoor smoking area to try to get some reality back into the equation.

It didn’t help much and the efficient, easy boarding onto the Air Canada plane didn’t help me escape the feeling I was just dreaming – it was all so easy and relaxed. Maybe its just me – this, after all, was my 24^thinternational flight (+ 8 domestic flights) this year so the whole flying thing has become almost part of my life lately. Anyway I settled in, avoided conversation with the guy beside me whom I just didn’t want to talk to for the next 14 hours and waited for take off.

All went well, I managed to get a few hours shut-eye and we landed in Vancouver 3 hours before we took off in Brisbane – due to the time difference, of course – at 7.20 (am).

Anticipating the usual arrival delays I had booked the rental car pick-up from Thrifty at 10.00.

Jesus – it was so easy, again, getting through customs, passports etc that I was in the terminal looking for the smoking area by 8! 

Interesting!! Cannabis is legal in BC apparently.

That need satisfied I went looking for the rental cars. The guy said if I took the car NOW, I’d need to return it by the same time on Sunday or be charged another day’s rental, so I opted for a coffee instead as I don’t want to have to come back too early on Sunday. It would also give me an opportunity to check out the airport and find things I would need later – like shuttle bus stops, left luggage etc.

Reflecting on this trip. 

The plan is to spend 4 days in the Vancouver area, birding in general, trying for specialties which, according to the Birding Pals I managed to squeeze information out of, will be difficult.

Then its back to the airport on Sunday and a flight to Campbell River on Vancouver Island where I will be in the hands of Wildcoast Adventures for a week of kayaking and bear viewing. 

That part I’m not concerned about. I’ll be someone else’s responsibility.

Then it’ll be back to Vancouver again and a bus to Seattle, crossing the Canadian/USA border on the way. Not quite sure how that will go, but hopefully will be OK.

Picking up the hire car in Seattle airport I will then drive to the coast at Westport, Washington State, and, hopefully, again, take part in a pelagic. The next day I start driving towards Florida via the northern states and the eastern seaboard, eventually returning via the southern states to Seattle by late November.

That is the part I am ….. apprehensive about. Firstly it’s a lot of driving. However, I can manage that as I go, making changes if necessary. Secondly – and probably more importantly – it’ll be a long time on my own. I think that’s the most daunting part in all honesty.

However, the dice is cast, the cards have been dealt, its time for the rubber to hit the road – to quote a few nonsensicals.

I picked the car up just after 10. It had a few minor scratches which I photographed as the paperwork suggested it was damage-free and I’m not taking any chances with my recent experiences.

A Nissan Elantra, auto, a bit scruffy, but that suits me fine.

I found my Air BnB on MapsMe and headed out focusing really hard on driving on the right. Found the house, but as I had agreed to meet the owner at 15.30, I had some time to kill. I let the sat nav take me to a nearby park – Fraser River Park about 10 minutes away.

I wandered round there picking up my first lifer of the trip – Northwestern Crow. Not a lot different from American Crow, but a tick is a tick is a tick. It was amazingly quiet actually. A dull, grey, glary type of day, warm (21), no wind, lots of berries on the trees and yet nothing much showing. I did find a few Northern Mallardon a small pond while WesternandCalifornian Gullsoccasionally passed by along the river. A flock of about 10 Killdeerflew off one muddy patch and a few Song Sparrows, 1 probable Lincoln’s Sparrowand a brief Northern Flickermade up most of the list. A hawk swooped a few Crows and then landed out of sight in a tree. I approached and it flew again. Based on the size and general behaviour I’m pretty happy it was my second lifer of the day – Sharp-shinned Hawk. Very like Cooper’s only smaller really. 

Northwestern Crow

I was feeling a little hungry so made my way to a nearby MacD’s and had an Angus burger and coffee, then headed for another park area along the waterfront – Jericho Beach Park.

This was a bigger park and maybe a bit more activity? 

A small flock of (wild?) Canada Geese wandered across the road, 2 Great Blue Herons, 2 Yellow Warblers, a small flock of American Robins (interesting that they’re flocking already?) 2 Spotted Towhees, a handful of White-crowned Sparrows, 3 House Finches and an obliging female Northern Flicker on the ground.

female Northern Flicker

White-crowned Sparrow

Great Blue Heron

My first Canadian mammals were of the introduced variety – European Rabbits one could almost pet (apparently dumped by people who no longer wanted them as a pet) and Eastern Grey Squirrels  Sciurus carolinensis. Both showing black melanistic forms. 

Eastern Grey Squirrel (bottom- melanistic form)

Three turtles perched up on a mud bank were Western Painted Turtles Chrysemys picta bellii.

Western Painted Turtles Chrysemys picta bellii.

It was time to meet my Air BnB host and I headed there through the afternoon school traffic checking in with Frances at 15.30. It’s a nice room – that’s all it is – with a shared bathroom and kitchen. I was hoping there would be coffee but apparently only that left by previous guests. I guess I’ll have to go and buy some basic stuff when I’ve had a little rest…..

I fell asleep, unfortunately, and when I woke up I was hungry so I drove to a nearby Safeway and bought a microwavable meal for dinner. I also got some oats for breakfast and the necessary coffee, sugar and milk.

After eating a very poor dinner I spent the rest of the evening in my room, reading and doing my notes etc.

Trip List – 16     Lifers - 2

Day 2 – 12.9.19 (Thursday)

I didn’t sleep well – jet lag and the nana nap yesterday afternoon didn’t work out too well and I spent a lot of time reading through the night.

I got up at 7, had breakfast and left around 8. Headed south thinking I would avoid most of the traffic – I did – and arrived at the George C Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary half an hour before it opened at 9. It was a damp, cloudy morning but the rain initially held off. 

I paid my $3 admittance fee – got the $2 senior discount – and wandered around the tracks looking for stuff.

Within 20 meters of the entrance I got all excited ‘cause I had 2 or 3 Black-capped Chickadees, my third trip lifer, right there in front of me. 

By the end of the day I had seen so many they had become ‘just another f……..g Black-capped Chickadee’ as they do. But they were pretty cute and super-confiding.

Black-capped Chickadee

Moving right along and cutting a long story short….I spent the morning happily birding the ponds and surrounding scrub/grasses/bush for what seemed like a big list, but ended up less than 40 species. Mind you there was some quality birds – crippling views of Short-billed Dowitchers and Greater Yellowlegs, a distant Bald Eagle sat on the beach, a number of Sandhill Cranes (new for my NA list), good views of Northern Harriers, heaps of Sparrow sp, mostly I think Song with a few obvious White-crowned and at least 1 Lincoln thrown in. Definite Yellow Warblers and a few I believe were that, flocks of Bushtits and best of all, finally, Wood Duck. Man, what a stunning little duck, I couldn’t stop taking photos of them and they were so easy – almost stuffed.

American Coot

Bushtit

Greater Yellowlegs

Northern Harrier

Short-billed Dowitcher

Yellow Warbler - I think

Same bird - can't be anything else?

Yellow Warbler for sure

Same bird

Wood Duck - they really are an amazing looking duck.

Wood Duck

Day 2 - 12.9.19
George C Reifel Migratory Bird Sanctuary, Vancouver
1	11	Canada Goose	20
2	47	Northern Shoveler	100
3	52	Gadwall	100
4	55	Northern Mallard	300
5	58	Northern Pintail	20
6	59	Green-winged Teal	80
7	60	Wood Duck	15
8	89	Eurasian Collared Dove	2
9	138	American Coot	3
10	140	Sandhill Crane	6
11	189	Great Blue Heron	50
12	271	Short-billed Dowitcher	8
13	286	Greater Yellowlegs	15
14	354	Common Tern	1
15	367	Northern Harrier	3
16	371	Bald Eagle	2
17	377	Red-tailed Hawk	1
18	397	Northern Flicker	2
19	457	Hutton's Vireo	1
20	473	Northwestern Crow	5
21	480	House Sparrow	20
22	490	Common Raven	1
23	503	American Goldfinch	2
24	526	Spotted Towhee	4
25	531	White-crowned Sparrow	8
26	544	Song Sparrow	50
27	545	Lincoln's Sparrow	1
28	557	Orange-crowned Warbler	2
29	575	Yellow Warbler	10
30	581	Yellow-rumped Warbler	10
31	602	Red-winged Blackbird	40
32	626	Black-capped Chickadee	40
33	635	Barn Swallow	300
34	642	Bushtit	15
35	668	European Starling	10
36		Eastern Grey Squirrel	6
37		Common Eastern Bumblebee	6

Common Eastern Bumblebee Bombus impatiens

By 13.00 I was pretty knackered, what with lack of sleep, lack of coffee and carting all the stuff around (camera, scope etc) so I headed back to the car and south towards Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal (yeah, I can’t pronounce it either) where I had found reports of Black Turnstone on the rocky edges of the terminal area. On the way I looked for somewhere that had coffee and food and once again, Ronald McD was the answer. What the hell – you know what you’re getting, you get it quickly, it doesn’t cost the earth – and they have good toilets. What more could I ask for?

I felt much better after eating, but by then the rain had really settled in – in fact it was pissing down.

Never fear, thinks I, I’ll check out the ferry terminal anyway – you never know!

Well, that was a complete waste of time.

There was nowhere to stop or park unless you pay or are going on one of the ferries. And even if you did park, I think you’d still have difficulty wandering around looking for stuff. It might be possible to park back on the mainland – the ferry terminal is on a man-made island, connected by a causeway where you can’t stop - but I wasn’t going to park and walk as it was pouring rain and I didn’t have any wet gear with me, of course. It would have been a long, probably mostly uneventful walk anyway. I did see a couple of Black Oystercatchers from the car as I drove slowly in the inside lane back along the causeway, but that was about it.

By now it was close to 15.00, wet, grey, dull, almost starting to go dark. No sign of the weather lifting, I decided to head home. 

MapsMe told me 30 minutes. 

It took over an hour and a half. The traffic was f….d. At one point I took a slight diversion and saw the USA/Canadian border – what is it with my travelling? I always end up on borders? A few ks further and it was 5 lanes of solid traffic into one lane to go through a tunnel under a river. Jesus wept…..

Anyway, got home with another microwave meal – this one included a brownie with the fried ‘chicken’, mash and corn, but it really wasn’t much better than last night’s effort.

Trip List – 43      Lifers – 4     New NA - 2

Day 3 – 13.9.19 Friday

Slept a little better and got up at 6.30 to a dull, damp cloudy grey (or gray!) morning. After breakfast at which I doubled up on the oats, I headed out. Today I had decided to go north (yesterday had been all south) and so set my course for Grouse Mountain. This meant transitioning through Vancouver city itself hence the earlier leaving and the iPad as always strapped to my left thigh for guidance.

So I get into the city and am happily following the instructions issuing from my iPad in light traffic, feeling good. I stop at a set of lights, I’m second car and no one is behind me.

Well, no one that is except a cop on a motorbike. Whom I didn’t see. Why would I be looking? I was doing nothing wrong.

Well, he didn’t think so and pulled up beside me and pointed me to the kerbside.

I sat and reflected on the last few minutes driving and could not pinpoint anything different or incorrect? I’d just been following the traffic, such as it was.

Anyway he walked to my window and advised me that using an iPad in my lap to navigate was a ‘distraction’ and not acceptable practice, could he have my license and insurance? He could – if I could find the latter – it was, in fact, in the glove box OK and he took them away back to his bike.

When he returned he lectured me on the dangers of driving distracted, that he was sure the penalties in Australia were much worse than here. Then he gave me a citation and THEN advised me that:

1.    It wouldn’t affect my license here or at home.

2.    The rental people would never know.

3.    I was a good driver (?)

4.    He didn’t want to stress me out – (like a little LATE for that don’t you think?)

5.    He wanted me to have a good holiday and enjoy Canada/Vancouver (like – ditto!)

And

6.    I didn’t have to pay it if I didn’t want to. Apparently there is no reciprocity between Canada and Australia concerning fines and even if I came back to Canada without paying it, no one would ever follow up.

WTF????

I tried a couple of times to say stuff like, its an iPad, its only for navigation, I’m not playing with it. And, I’ve never been here before and so I was looking around taking everything in.

But he really didn’t want me to say anything except thanks, I think.

I mean – what’s the point? He goes to all that trouble, issuing me a fine, then telling me in great detail how I don’t have to pay it? 

Again I say - WTF???

Anyway he told me to use the iPad on the passenger seat and just ‘listen, don’t look at it’.He also told me he’d been in Brisbane in 1992 to quote’see the State of Origin’ unquote and had driven to Cairns where he’d been busted for driving with open liquor in the car – and HE’D never paid the fine!

Jesus wept.

Obviously with that advice I intend to follow his example and not pay it, of course. 

Just as well – it was $368.........

F…k me!

I carried on, reaching Grouse Mountain a little later than planned.

It was raining, a thin misty rain and the trees and mountain were shrouded in mist or maybe cloud. I parked and paid $8 via credit card – probably about $10 Aus – for 3 hours, then started hiking up one of the trails. It was very rough, quite steep and the mist only got worse. There was absolutely nothing moving or calling in the forest of huge pine trees so after 30 minutes I gave it away and walked back down to the car park, working on the old assumption that everything is always in the car park.

It was raining heavier now and so I got a coffee from Starbucks beside the chairlift station (I checked the price – it was $59 return. I thought about it, but chose not to go, as the weather was so foul I’d have seen nothing from up there anyway and the chances of seeing grouse or anything else from the chairlift seemed a bit thin.)

As I sat with my coffee waiting for the rain to ease a small Chipmunk ran around in front of me. I decided it was a Yellow Pine Chipmunk Tamias amoenus – a lifer and he was very cute, as chipmunks are, so that kinda made up for the lack of birds.

On the way back to the car I saw another Squirrel lifer – Douglas’s Squirrel Tamiasciurus douglasii so all in all it wasn’t a bad $10 worth.

As I got back to the car, my expectations were met as a mixed flock of Dark-eyed Juncos  (6) and Townsend Warblers (20) moved through the trees right in front of my vehicle. 

It always happens, doesn’t it? Nothing new, but they were nice. 

Dark-eyed Junco 

Townsend's Warbler

I decided to have a smoke before I headed off again and found another Yellow Pine Chipmunk about 2 meters away chewing on some grass – that was cool!

Yellow Pine Chipmunk

Here's a video of his cuteness:

https://youtu.be/PkxNrkGrTCk

It all happens at the car, I’m telling ya!

So as the weather was so shit, especially in the mountains, I thought a drive with a possible lowland destination would be worthwhile. I set the Squamish Wildlife Management Reserve in the iPad, propped it up in front of the gear lever and set off.

It was a lovely drive and is probably spectacular in the sun, along the coast north towards Whistler for about 60 ks. (Whistler is another 50 and I didn’t bother).

On a whim I stopped off at Shannon Falls and joined the other tourists for the short walk to the overview point. Nothing happened there except two groups of people asked me to take their photos in front of the waterfall. I left before it became a career.

Shannon Falls

The Wildlife Reserve was pretty poor. Nothing of interest for me there, a few Common Ravens, sparrow sp that I decided were Chipping Sparrows and it was starting to get windy to top it off.

I went to Mackers for lunch again.

With time on my hands I checked the map for maybe somewhere else nearby that might be of interest and found a place called Alice Lake about 12 ks further north. So I went there. By now the rain had stopped and it had brightened up somewhat but was still cloudy.

I parked up (free this time) and decided to walk around the lake. It was very quiet, no one else around really. The track crossed a beach then entered the trees. 

As I entered the trees I saw a movement on the slope on my right. I stopped and got the bins on - a Varied Thrush!! Yahoooo!! He was a bit nervous and kind of flighty but I thought I’d get a photo anyway. 

Just as I started to bring the camera up, a healthy f….ker wearing only lycra pants jogged past me up the path and of course the bird disappeared, never to be seen again.

Jesus Christ!!

He could run anywhere, but No, it had to be HERE. Now.

I had originally thought Varied Thrush would be easy, but the birding guys I had contacted had given it a low percentage chance at this time of year cause ‘they weren’t all back yet’. I’m not sure where from, but it was clear it wasn’t going to be easy.

So, here I am with, potentially, the ONLY Varied Thrush I’ll EVER see and some wanker has to jog past RIGHT at the wrong time.

You can imagine my pain. 

And the resultant sulk.

You're not allowed to smoke in some of these parks in Canada, but apparently its OK to disturb people while you jog – F…k THAT!

I saw 5 other people on the track in the next hour or so and any one of them would have stopped if they’d seen me with a camera out. 

I didn’t see Mr I-only-jog-in-my-underpants again.

Lucky for him.

So 10 seconds worth of VT, but, I guess, at least it WAS a VT.

I watched a second Douglas’s Squirrel run back and forth with pinecones he seemed to be storing somewhere, but that was literally it for Alice Lake.

Douglas's Squirrel

I headed for home. 

Quoted distance: 83 ks. Quoted time: 1 hour 5 minutes.

I left Alice Lake at 15.00 – and got home at 17.15. The traffic into Vancouver was just horrific, 30 minutes to get through one set of lights!

I did see a Golden Eagle overhead at one point in the road – a new North American for my list.

Friday the 13^th is right……

Trip List – 48      Lifers – 5 birds, (2 Mammals)       New NA – 3

Day 4 – 14.9.19 Saturday

I didn’t get to sleep till after midnight so was late waking to another dull, grey, wet morning. It was the type of morning where bed is very attractive and you’d prefer to curl up with your lover under the doona than drag your sorry ass out.

But, lacking a lover, drag my sorry ass out I did.

I spent a little bit of time with E Bird trying to decide where would give me the most bang for my Canadian buck on my last day in Vancouver. I had considered Stanley Park in the city environs, but when I checked recent reports there was nothing there that got me excited. I did, however, find a report of Horned (or Shore) Larks and, more importantly, a (single) Black Turnstone at a place only 10 minutes away near the airport – Iona Beach Regional Park.

Still a little shell shocked from the police interaction yesterday and wanting to avoid any further possible contact with Officer Buckingham I was happy not to go into the city and set off south for this Iona place. 

I got there at 9.45 and checked out a mass of hirundines over a small pond. I picked out a handful of Northern Rough-winged and 1 Violet-green Swallow/s from the large flock of Barn Swallows hawking over the water.

Then I set out for the ‘pier’, which was more like a causeway. Perfect for Turnstones with rocky edges all along its 4 km length. Yeah, 4 freaking kilometers! The tide was going out and vast mudflats were appearing. But they were virtually empty, apart from several hundred Green-winged Teal scattered in small flocks, a few Northern Mallard and fewer still Northern Pintail. However, optimism was high and I set off, continually watching the rocky edges for any movement.

 

The Pier/causeway - it just keeps going and going....

I came across the Shore Larks - all 3 of them, and they were quite confiding, considering how photographically challenging I have found them in the past.

Horned Lark

In 4 kilometers I only found 1, yes, ONE, Western Sandpiper. It was the only wader, literally, that I saw until I bumped into a pair of birders. An older couple who had come late to the birding scene – nice enough, but not what one would call hard core birder/idiots like some of us. They did point out a Wandering Tattler which, apparently, is unusual at this location.

I kept up the positivity all the way to the end where a rocky outcrop suggested great things but was, in fact, completely barren of birds.

Offshore there were large numbers of Surf Scoter and I went through them looking for White-winged, unsuccessfully. A few did venture quite close to the causeway.

 

Male Surf Scoter

Then I walked the same 4 kms back.

By the time I had reached the car it was raining again and my back was aching from carrying the ‘scope. So I had a little rest then set off to look for a gate into the nearby sewage settling ponds where the birders I had met on the walk thought was my best chance, locally, for Hooded Merganser. They had given me the secret 4-digit code to get through the gate, which was very nice of them.

But it didn’t help me find a HM as there weren’t any on either of the two ponds.

I was pretty tired by now, desperate for coffee and the day wasn’t getting any better weather-wise so I basically packed up and headed home via, yes, you guessed it, another Mackers – oh and Safeway again for another microwaveable meal…..

Day 4 - 14.9.19
Iona beach Regional Park
1	25	Surf Scoter	200
2	47	Northern Shoveler	30
3	52	Gadwall	5
4	55	Northern Mallard	60
5	58	Northern Pintail	10
6	59	Green-winged Teal	400
7	189	Great Blue Heron	10
8	208	Double-crested Cormorant	30
9	270	Western Sandpiper	1
10	281	Wandering Tattler	1
11	331	Ring-billed Gull	10
12	332	California Gull	10
13	333	Western Gull	100
14	350	Caspian Tern	10
15	354	Common Tern	1
16	473	Northwestern Crow	10
17	544	Song Sparrow	20
18	575	Yellow Warbler	2
19	581	Yellow-rumped Warbler	10
20	602	Red-winged Blackbird	5
21	626	Black-capped Chickadee	2
22	631	Shore/Horned Lark	3
23	635	Barn Swallow	100
24	638	Violet-green Swallow	1
25	640	Northern Rough-winged Swallow	10
26	668	European Starling	5

Trip List – 57      Lifers – 5 birds, (2 Mammals)         New NA – 3

Day 5 – 15.9.19 Sunday

I was scheduled to fly to Campbell River at 13.30 from the South Terminal. The hire car had to be returned by 10.15 latest so I was up at 7, breakfasted and packed and left at 9.15. First job – fill the car with fuel. Easily accomplished at a nearby service station where the same process applied as in the USA – pay before you fill. Cost: $43.

Then to the airport and car drop off completed without hassle – for a change!

I dropped my rucksack into the left luggage counter – $68 for the 7 days. Then, as I had plenty of time, I thought I’d just check where the Seattle bus left from - in preparation for next Saturday.

It was lucky I did.

My flight next Saturday from Campbell River arrives in Vancouver at 11.10. The bus to Seattle leaves at midday – from the Rockport Casino in Vancouver, NOT the airport as I had understood it from the website. I would need to get a cab (~$20) to the Casino to get the bus. 

The helpful information desk also advised me to book a seat on the bus as they often filled up – especially if the Seattle flights were cancelled for any reason.

There was little chance of me making the midday bus in 50 minutes. If there had been a bus around 13.00 it would have worked but the next bus didn’t leave till 16.00. so…….panic. 

Not a major panic as I figured I could live with it if I had to drive from Seattle airport to Westport at night, but it would have made for a very late arrival followed by an early start the next day for the pelagic.

I pondered the options on the free 15 minute shuttle ride from the main to the south terminal.

When I checked in with Pacific Coastal Airways I asked the girl if there was any chance of getting an earlier flight next Saturday? She said there was and very politely and efficiently booked me on the 6.50 flight from Campbell River getting in at 7.35 and I paid the $52.50 change fee.

Problem solved. In fact, I can now probably get the 11.00 bus to Seattle, arriving there at 15.15. All I’ve got to do now is book the bus…….

The plane left on time – a twin rotor 19 seat job, 10 of which were empty. I had planned to ask for a window seat, but had forgotten in the excitement of changing my return flight. It would have been superfluous anyway as all the seats were window seats. The pilot said we’d be flying at 10,000 ft, I once jumped out of a plane flying higher than that.

Anyway, we raced down to the runaway at what seemed Formula 1 speed, came to a stop, he revved the shit out of the engines and then we were away.

All the seats were window seats....

Most of the flight was cloud covered and we landed at Campbell River in the rain, again. I got the shuttle bus to the Comfort Inn in downtown Campbell River for $20 – and organised a pickup for next Saturday at 5.45. I had to wait 40 minutes for check-in, which was fine, then dumped my bags and went for a walk. 

One thing I had ‘forgotten’ to bring was shorts. Well, not exactly forgotten, but thinking more about the rest of the trip, had decided there would be minimal opportunity to wear shorts. However, where kayaking was concerned and it being relatively warm, I thought it’d probably be preferential to wear shorts rather than get my long pants wet. Pretty silly of me, considering I have a dozen pairs at home, however, I found a K-Mart type store where I got a pair for $15. I felt a bit like Jack Reacher. (Mr H will understand what I mean)

I checked out the location for the bear hunting trip tomorrow and then the pickup point for the kayak trip on Tuesday. It was about a 10 minute walk to the Grizzly adventure pickup which I visited just to check what time I needed to be there. One of the girls on the counter asked me if I was excited? I said it all felt like a dream really - this has all been so anticipated and thought about, it all still seems a little unreal?

The Wildcoast Adventure departure point was 15 minutes walk in the opposite direction. It will require a bit of effort to walk there with my bags, however, I’m sure I’ll cope. A pickup from the hotel for non-drivers would have been nice….

Campbell River was bigger than I had imagined. An extensive waterfront with marinas and small wharves, loads of shops and restaurants, on the shores of Discovery Passage, backed by pine covered hills. Even the circus was in town with a Big Top set up in a small waterfront park.

I checked out a few of the local restaurants with an eye to eating McDonald’s-free tonight. It seemed to be a choice of burgers, KFC, burgers, pizza or………..burgers really. So I decided it’d be pizza for a change.

I walked the 15 minutes to Fisherman’s Wharf where the Tuesday morning departure is scheduled to leave from – just to check it all out. I had been half expecting to see eagles and stuff flying around but there were only a few Glaucous-winged Gulls (new NA) and a couple of Double-crested Cormorants, and a single Harbour Seal Phoca vitulina checked me out.

An 8-slice (small size, apparently) average tasting vegetarian pizza and a Canadian beer at Boston Pizza later and I was back ‘home’ again, settled in for the evening.

Trip List – 57      Lifers – 5 birds, (2 Mammals)         New NA – 4

Day 6 – 16.9.19 Monday

Once again it took me ages to get to sleep – it was well after midnight. I was up at 6.15 and down for a big breakfast, then walked down to Pier E and the All Day Grizzly Adventure.

It was awesome!

While we waited on the dock a North American River Otter crossed the pontoon briefly – apparently they are common here and crap on the boats at night to mark their territory.

We left in the boat at 8.30, 12 in all, the second boat also full. It was a two hour trip to the Orford River Malumo First People’s settlement. The water was almost mirror calm and the scenery was pretty spectacular once the clouds lifted and the sun actually came out for a while.

On the way we caught up with 2 Humpback Whales and then a single. I also noted Common Guillemots, 1 Pigeon Guillemot, Pelagic Cormorants, Surf Scoters, a pair of Harlequin Ducks, Western Grebes, a Great Northern Diver and Bonaparte’s Gulls (~100). Being inside the vessel taking pictures was impossible unless we stopped – which we did for the whales, but not for the birds. There may well have been Marbled Murrelets as well but I didn’t get any chance to ID them.

We were met by two First People’s guides of the Malumo tribe at the wharf, along with two buses, and received an official welcome and another safety briefing re bears. The guides and our boat person, Jim, carried bear spray and were constantly on the lookout for errant bears, including checking the area around the bus before letting us out. 

It was about a 30 minute drive to the first viewing tower along a rough dirt road but on the way they spotted our first Grizzly. It wandered through the bush about 30 meters away watched carefully by everyone. So cool!

 

Not the best - the light was pretty contrasty - Grizzly No 1

https://youtu.be/TWxKOmprC_I

When we arrived at the tower a bear was already on the river bank and crashed into the water to catch a salmon. This was the only successful fish catch we witnessed – but we saw that individual and another fishing along the bank no more than 50 meters away, quite casually. Really cool! F…….g awesome actually!

                                     https://youtu.be/KRZgiUFQszw

This is a 6.5 minute video of this particular individual

https://youtu.be/Q3O9HLsfT2c

While we were watching these guys an immature Bald Eagle landed downriver and later an adult perched up in a tree approx 80 meters away. Goosanders also fished the river and a few Gulls and Common Ravens hung around too.

Imm Bald Eagle

Adult Bald Eagle

When the bears had wandered off to do whatever it is they do in the woods, we moved to another location, but saw no bears, just a couple of distant Belted Kingfishers, although only one UK guy and myself were interested. 

 

Again, not the best - Belted Kingfisher @ distance

A third location gave us our fourth bear – a big black mother of a bear, but it was some distance away and didn’t show well. Our final, 5^th, animal was only a brief viewing before it slunk off out of sight.

Orford River wharf

Back at the wharf we had lunch then headed back towards Campbell River. This time we went through an area of ‘rapids’, a narrow waterway where the sea floods through causing whirlpools and waves – all very dramatic and, even better, there were half a dozen Steller Sea Lions fishing in the disturbed water.

A little while after that, and following an alert on the radio, we headed for a bay where Orcas were being seen and, sure enough, they were there. Three of them, a male, female and calf. We had to maintain a 200 meter perimeter and it was quite choppy so my videos are all over the place. Hopefully I’ll get a bit closer in the kayak.

https://youtu.be/THDAMge7qfU

Back at the dock at 17.30 we said goodbye and I walked back to the Comfort Inn. I decided not to worry about dinner as, by the time I’d reviewed my photos and video and notes, it was well after 20.00 and I still hadn’t finished. I wasn’t hungry anyway. I did manage to book the return ticket on the Quickcoach from Vancouver to Seattle - apparently to book a ticket you have to 'click on the big red bus' - who'd have thought it was that simple? $99 (US dollars I think)

So tomorrow I go on the kayak trip. I expect to be out of any sort of internet/wifi/phone range until Friday.

Trip List – 67      Lifers – 5 birds, (+5 Mammals)       New NA – 5 (+2 Mammals)

Day 7 – 17.9.19 Tuesday

We were due to leave on the Discovery Launch Water Taxi at 8. I went downstairs, had breakfast and then headed out for a smoke at 7.15. I recognized a guy who had been on the bear hunting expedition the day before and we started chatting. Brad (from Toronto) was heading out to the water taxi for the same trip I was on so I grabbed my stuff and we walked up the road together. 

It was raining, windy and waves were breaking in the marina. It was a truly miserable morning.

The water taxi was delayed till 9.30 – in fact till 10 in the end – and Brad and I repaired to a nearby café – the Beehive – and sat and talked while we waited. It was a blessing that we found each other as we discovered a similar sense of humour and language use and shared a lot of laughs over the next few days.

The boat finally left and we headed off with 9 others into the spray and rain. It turned out that two of the other couples were from Brisbane. Jesus, can’t get away from it! One couple, she was 4 months pregnant, now lived in London, but had, a few years ago, lived on Birdwood Rd……. The others had been travelling for 5 months, working on-line but had originally lived in Moorooka, Greenslopes and Holland Park. The third couple on board were Germans from Leipzig and the last three were made up of Canadians, a single female, Laura, hailed from Victoria, and two guys, friends, from somewhere else in Canada. I was the oldest member of the group.

We stopped off, briefly, at Quadra Island to pick up some supplies then we were off again on the two hour trip to the camp. We had brief views of White-sided Dolphins Lagenorhynchus obliquidens and a Humpback on the journey, but the only birds I really ID’d were Bonaparte’s Gulls in the channel. It did eventually calm down, but when we reached the drop off point the chop was messy and we had to transfer from the water taxi to the beach via a small rowing boat. I was shitting it that my gear would fall in, but we landed Ok, if a little wet, and carried our stuff up the rocky beach to the sleeping tents.

We were shown around – the toilets, kitchen tent, sauna, hot tub – and Brad and I decided to share a tent. We had some lunch and then were left to hang out as the conditions were not kayak-

friendly.

The Guides' Tents

Stacked kayaks

Kitchen and dining Tent

Paddle Shack

View from Kitchen/Dining tent/verandah - note Dipper Creek

Road to the toilet......

Overview of guests' sleeping tents

Brad and our tent

Sauna - Hot tub is set up in the background

I set up with the scope on the beach and watched the passing stuff. Pelagic Cormorants, Surf Scoters and a couple of Marbled Murrelets sitting just off the beach. The latter a feature of the next 4 days, but never more than one or two and I never got close.

As I sat there I suddenly noticed a small wader on the opposite side of the creek that flowed beside the campsite. Zooming in I realised I had a bird I had almost given up on – Black Turnstone!!  It very obligingly flew across the creek and landed about 30 meters away – brilliant views!

Black Turnstone

https://youtu.be/5GJR9YgAHhs

Basically that was it for the day. We had salmon for dinner that night and all meals were well prepared, there was plenty of food and coffee was always available.

Day 8 – 18.9.19 Wednesday

                  

I got up before breakfast and wandered out in front of the kitchen tent with coffee and bins and watched a flock of 7 Black Turnstones! Yep, you can’t find the bird then they’re everywhere. A few more Scoters, but realistically not much else. The forest behind the campsite was completely dead. Huge pines backed up the steep hill with minimal undergrowth and just nothing calling or moving at anytime during our stay. 

Back down at the creek it was low tide and I thought ‘that creek is really good-looking for Dipper’ and sure enough 10 minutes later I had American Dipper! Crippling views. I was to see it daily, and a second one once, over the coming days.

American Dipper

https://youtu.be/VGgpAY2AQ90

After a huge breakfast – pancakes, bacon (can’t get enough of this American bacon!), fruit, coffee, juice – we headed down to the Paddle Shack and geared up for our first kayaking paddle. I chose to be in a single kayak, as did Brad and Laura; the couples, and the two Canadian dudes, were in doubles.

We got instruction, got in the kayaks and paddled along the edge of the island. By now the conditions had calmed completely. Totally. I mean there were NO waves, swells or anything else to disturb the surface. It was the classical mill-pond thing.

We paddled for 2 or 3 ks along the coast, eventually pulling in at a sandy/shingly type of beach and went for a walk to a waterfall a little distance up a valley.

There were 5 Spotted Sandpipers flitting around the beach during lunch and one of the Canadian guys said he saw a Red-headed Woodpecker. I could hear it, but couldn’t find it visually. We had the one and only Bald Eagle perched up on the walk to the waterfall. 

Bald Eagle

When we headed back the wind had sprung up a bit and there was a small swell out wide, but nothing to worry us. It took an hour and a half to get back to camp and we saw nothing of any great interest along the way.

Brad and I were starting to wonder where the Orcas were. They had told us that if we saw anything – Orca, Humpback, Seal Lion etc – we were to shout it out loud, so everyone got a chance to see whatever it was. We did see a couple of Harbour Seals and Steller Sea Lions appeared here and there but none came close and we weren’t supposed to ‘chase’ them.

I had thought about calling ‘Black Turnstone’ or ‘American Dipper’ but refrained, as I figured no one else would be interested.

Back at camp some people headed for the hot tub – I’ve never been one for hot tubs so just hung out, drank coffee, watched for passing Orcas and checked out any passing birds, of which there were few. 

Another big dinner and I headed for bed around 9.

Day 9 – 19.9.19 Thursday

I was half asleep, waking up, at 7.45 when someone started shouting ‘ORCA’. Everyone jumped up and ran to the beach to watch several Orcas pass over the next 30 minutes or so. 

They were a fair way out – probably 1.5 – 2 ks away. It was so quiet though, we could hear their exhalations and inhalations and the fins were easily seen as they moved leisurely up the Strait.

After yet another huge breakfast we headed out and this time paddled straight across the 4 km wide Strait. We saw some Dall’s Porpoises Phocoenoides dalli but again not particularly close and they kept going. 

We landed on another beach and had lunch there, then paddled back across to camp. We were, obviously, hoping the Orcas would come back, but they didn’t show. I did have another Spotted Sandpiper on the lunch beach. And a Red-necked Grebe drifted past during the afternoon. A gull sitting patiently on a rock at the mouth of the creek demanded some attention and I ID’d it as another lifer – American Herring Gull. 

American Herring Gull

Spotted Sandpiper

Back at camp, once again the hot tub got some use, then the sauna was ready. They only fire it up for one day of each trip because it uses so much wood. I decided to enjoy a sauna and along with about 6 others piled into the home-made structure. 

It was very good actually, they’d done a really good job and we all sat and sweated for a while before emerging. The others were all plunging into the creek and I thought, well, might as well. 

I almost died of a heart attack I reckon. It was so freaking cold. Jesus Christ!

They all piled back in for another sauna session, but once was enough for me. It felt great afterwards, but then……it feels great too when you stop banging your head against the wall.

Then it was dinner, a beach campfire and I was in bed again around 9.

Day 10 – 20.9.19 Friday

Our last day at Orca camp – or Non-Orca camp as Brad put it….

An early morning paddle before dawn at 6.45 was arranged and most people turned out for it. We paddled out on the absolutely flat calm strait and ‘rafted up’ together in the middle to watch the sunlight come up on the mountains and start to burn off the heavy mist. It was a lovely morning, but I was pretty cold by the end of it and we were back at camp by 8.30. On the way an American Mink Neovison visonput in a brief appearance running up the rocks beside the water – I only got a fleeting glimpse over my shoulder. Then it was Eggs Benedict for breakfast and packing up. 

The water taxi returned at 10.30 and, as this is the final camping trip of the season, only a couple of guides got off to help our guys break down the tents etc. We loaded our stuff onto the boat and several kayaks on the rear deck then headed off, finally, back to Campbell River. It took over two hours and involved another stopoff at Quadra Island to offload the kayaks and some of the other camping stuff. 

Along the way we saw 2 Orcas, 1 Humpback and several Steller Sea Lions. As Brad said ‘we shoulda camped there…..’

At Quadra Island we had very close encounters with two North American River Otters Lontra canadensis playing around the jetty like puppies. They were really cute, but unfortunately my camera was in the hold.

Back at the marina, Laura offered Brad and I a lift to the Comfort Inn which saved us a 15 minute walk with our gear – and we checked in again.

Overall, I guess we were disappointed with the whole Orca thing. We had all been under the impression, I think, that we would actually be kayaking with or near Orcas. I know nothing is guaranteed but there is a 200 meter exclusion zone around the whales anyway and you’d only get near the animals if THEY chose to come to YOU. I know Brad and Laura (as well as myself of course) were a little ‘choked’ and felt it was a bit misleading. I guess you could get really lucky – I’m sure some have – but to not even see them close from land was a big let down. The camping was good, the food was great, the people were lovely, the location beautiful, I got a couple of new birds which I didn’t expect which was a great bonus and it was pretty cool to kayak in those waters, but the lack of Orcas and even the relatively small numbers of mammals in general was disappointing, there’s no other word for it. The weather had been grey, misty, cool and generally damp – until Friday morning when, as we left, the mist had gone, the sun was shining and it was a lovely morning. Once again – you can’t guarantee the weather, and we can all accept that, but…….

Anyway, back in the hotel, a hot shower, a shave and a proper toilet were the necessities of life as I checked my emails to discover another disappointment - the planned pelagic out of Westport on the Seattle coast, that had been scheduled for Sunday, had been cancelled due to expected heavy weather. Now I need to decide what to do when I pick up the car tomorrow at Seattle airport…..

Trip List – 74      Lifers – 8 birds, (+7 Mammals)       New NA – 7 (+3 Mammals)

Day 11 – 21.9.19 Saturday

Big travel day. Planes, trains and automobiles…..

Started off with yet another disappointment of sorts – the shuttle to the airport I had arranged personally last Sunday for 5.45 didn’t turn up. So at 5.50 Brad and I ordered a taxi. We got to the airport at 6.25 checked in, had a coffee and flew 10 minutes late at 7.

We got the free shuttle from the South Terminal to the International where I left Brad on the bus to go to the Domestic terminal and I went in and collected my rucksack from the left luggage. Then I sat and had another coffee as I had plenty of time on my hands. 

I thought I’d just check with the Information desk. Maybe there was a free shuttle to the Rock River Casino from the airport? A lot of the hotels seem to do that. However, apparently you have to be a guest to get the free ride, but the woman did convince me to use the Skytrain. 

I had planned to get a $20 taxi, but she made it sound so simple I couldn’t refuse the challenge! (I know its pathetic isn’t it when you see a train ride as a challenge….)

So for $8 I got my ticket, rode the unmanned, automatic monorail kind of thing to the third stop and struggled through to the Casino and eventually the bus stop with my 4 bags.

I had to wait nearly two hours but that was OK, I knew that. At 11, the bus turned up on time, we piled in and found it almost full. 30 minutes later we all piled out again, collected our bags and queued for ages to go through the USA customs. Interviewed, quizzed, fingerprinted, photographed and we were all back in the bus again and off to Seattle. 

We arrived 5 minutes later than scheduled at 15.20 and I asked a police officer with an M16 where I could 1. smoke and 2. collect my car. He was very helpful and polite and after I had completed 1, I found myself on the bus to Seatac Rental Car Heaven. All the companies are off-site and the bus simply takes you there and drops everyone off.

It took more than an hour to get the car. 

There were a few people who seemed to be having difficulty in one way or another and held up everyone else. Finally, however, I sorted the paperwork and went down to the garage to collect a Nissan Rogue Sport – black! Nice! Looks very like a Rav 4.

I had decided to drive to a town away from Seattle - just to get to a place with a bed, in a motel, and sort my stuff out before starting to camp. I still haven’t got a pillow, camping chair or any serious food or gas so……

I ended up in an Econolodge in Ellensburg about 170 ks east of Seattle, part way to Spokane. It was a really nice drive through some pretty awesome looking mountains. 

Seattle to Ellensburg, Washington

Apparently I got the last room – a double. I also got the senior discount of about $10, one night cost me $88, and that includes wifi, of course, and a ‘continental’ breakfast in the morning. It was the right decision I think.  It gave me the chance to sort my clothes v camping gear, set up the car with music and so on and generally sort out my head.  I have two days in hand now, thanks to the cancellation of the pelagic, so will alter my schedule as it suits. I looked at going somewhere else in Idaho, now that I'm ahead of schedule, but there was little of special interest in the northern half and I don't want to drive a million extra miles to and then from somewhere in the south so will stick to the plan and head for Priest River tomorrow.

So my Canadian List stands at 74. Didn’t see anything worthwhile after crossing the border today – just one probable Golden Eagle over the highway at 110 k/hr….

Trip List – 74      Lifers – 8 birds, (+7 Mammals)       New NA – 7 (+3 Mammals)

Day 12 – 22.9.19 Sunday

I woke at 5.30 after a surprisingly solid night’s sleep in a very comfortable bed. I had the ‘continental’ breakfast which was quite good actually – boiled eggs, cereal, good quality yoghurt, toast, fruit, a selection of pastries that I ignored and waffles - but I didn’t have room for them either - and plenty of coffee. 

I went for a wander around the immediate area after breakfast and opened my USA account with a lifer – Black-billed Magpie. To all intents and purposes its exactly the same as the European version, but, once again, a tick is a tick.

I ended up in a rough deciduous treed area opposite the motel which had a bit going on, but I stumbled across several tents which appeared to be homeless people  - I’m assuming – and I did feel a little uncomfortable. I didn’t see anyone, but I did see a couple of Steller’s Jays,  Downy Woodpeckers,  Warbling Vireos,  Yellow-rumped Warblers,  American Robins, a Northern Flicker and a Northern Harrier flew through quite low. Three Mule Deer also crossed the track in front of me. I could have hung around longer but was a bit wary of the other ‘occupants’ so packed up and headed off around 9. 

Then came the next disappointment! I had brought along an inverter to use in the car so I could charge my laptop – it seemed the answer to that on-going issue. However, the only power outlet in the car was damaged and wouldn’t connect. At least I’m assuming it’s damaged not disconnected. It’s a real pisser actually 'cause now I can only charge one item at a time in the car and not the laptop at all. And when I’m charging something I can’t listen to my music. I also need to keep the iPad on almost continuous charge in the car if I’m using it for navigation, as it drains fairly quickly and that eliminates my music too of course. Shit, shit, shit, shit. I considered calling Alamo and asking for it to be replaced/fixed, however, I don’t want to change the car – I love the car! I’ll think about it and decide later.

In the meantime I headed east towards Spokane about 120 kms to Moses Lake where I had been told there was a Wal-Mart.  In the first few ks I saw at least 6 Red-tailed Hawks perched on fence posts beside the highway.

I found the Wal-Mart and spent about 2 and a half hours stocking up – I bought a camp chair, gas cylinders, a pillow, a bucket, tinned beans, an esky, milk, cheese, chocolate, eggs, bread, butter….you get the picture. I spent $156 and packed it all in the car, then went back in and bought an AT&T Sim card for my phone so hopefully it’ll be available at all times now for Messenger. Cost - $10 for the sim card and $35 for a month of unlimited texts and calls and some data (not sure how much, but it should be enough).

Then retired to Starbucks to have a coffee and charge the laptop……

I headed east again just after 14.30. MapsMe told me it ws two and a half hours to Priest River. It was a fairly boring drive through undulating land stripped bare for agriculture – appeared to be a wheat like crop.

Ellensburg, Washington to Priest River, Idaho

When I reached Priest River at 17.15 I put the campsite I had chosen into MapsMe and found it was another 66 ks away. I hadn’t realised it was so far away from the town itself so decided to find something closer. The first place I tried was closed. The second place, 19 kms away, at Round Lake State Park was open and I started setting up camp at 18.15. By 19.00 I had the tarp up, the tent under it, my sleeping stuff spread ready inside, a cup of coffee to hand and a meal on the way. Cost for two nights = $60 that includes the $5 a day entry fee. Steeper than I expected, but with little choice today I just had to suck it up.

Campsite Round Lake, Priest River, Idaho

Trip List (USA) – 22      Lifers (total) – 9 birds, (+7 Mammals)       New NA – 7 (+3 Mammals)

Day 13 – 23.9.19 Monday

I sleep off and on and got up at 7. After eating I went for a walk around the campsite and checked out the lake. Nothing. Nada. Zip.

I decided to go for a drive and headed for a nearby lake that was much bigger. I ended up on the shores of Lake Pendl Oreille at Talache. There was nothing on the water. There was nothing along the roads either apart from Common Raven. Nothing flew up, nothing on the wires, nothing calling. Just nothing. I went for a walk along another lake and saw a single Mule Deer, apart from that – nothing at all.

I got fuel – filled the tank from ¼ full for $23.70 ($2.88/gallon which to my reckoning made it about 75c/litre or just over a dollar Australian)

I wanted to try to get up higher elevation-wise. My main targets being Hooded Merganser (hence the lake quests), Black-backed Woodpecker and any type of Grouse. I set the target for Long Mountain and drove up the dirt road as far as I was comfortable. Then I drove back a bit, parked up and walked again through apparently perfect habitat for anything. And again absolutely nothing. It was like everything had died.

Headed back to the campsite and had lunch, then went for another walk this time around the lake. It was hard birding! 

Round Lake State Park, Priest River, Idaho

I saw, literally, a single Ruby-crowned Kinglet, a single Hairy Woodpecker, a single Steller’s Jay, an Osprey, had good views of one Pileated Woodpecker, 4 Green-winged Teal and 3 Northern Mallard. The most common bird was American Robin  - about 10 or 12. I also saw two Red Squirrels, one of which froze in response to my playing Pygmy Owl. The walk lasted almost 3 hours.

 

Red Squirrel

I rested at camp for a while, then had a hot shower and shave and prepared some dinner. One of the park wardens came over and checked I had ‘got back the $10 you overpaid?’ Yes, I had and I thanked him very much, then quizzed him about Beaver and Owls and Woodpeckers etc.

After I had eaten I took his advice and headed up the creek that ran into the lake. There were a couple of beaver dams and I sat and watched a couple of sections of river for over an hour – but no beaver appeared. Went back and crashed early – it was spitting rain and cold.

Trip List (USA) – 28       Lifers (total) – 9 birds, (+7 Mammals)       New NA – 7 (+4 Mammals)

Day 14 – 24.9.19 Tuesday

Up at 7, fed, watered, broke camp and was on the road by 8.

Heading for Glacier National Park in Montana - 408 kms, 5 hours. The sun was shining, the roads were good quality, little traffic and good music.

Along the way I saw several Red-tailed Hawks perched up and a few other ‘raptors’ soaring low over the road. However, most of the soaring birds were over places I just couldn’t stop and, when I did once or twice, they had vanished. So I gave up. They all looked dark underneath, but weren’t eagles. Possibly dark morph Rough-legged Hawks/Buzzards?

Other than that it was a pretty uneventful morning but a lovely scenic drive through the mountains and valleys of northwest Montana, alongside rivers and lakes. I finally came to a rest at Starbucks at Kalispell.

It seemed to take ages to charge the phone, iPad, E-Reader and especially the charge pack I had drained the previous night charging the phone & iPad. I had two coffees while I waited and eventually left at almost 14.30. I only had an hour and a half drive left to Glacier.

Along the way I had a brief glimpse of a falcon sp perched up – it was either a Merlin or a Prairie Falcon but, again, nowhere to stop easily. At the turnoff to the park a small flock of Brewer’s Blackbirds were beside the road, but I didn’t bother stopping for them.

Priest River, Idaho to Glacier NP, Montana

In fact I got there at 15.45 and went to the park headquarters near West Glacier. It was closed, but the sign said it was open till 16.30? WTF? There were two chicks weeding outside the building and I asked them WTF? But not like that really. Anyway, apparently by crossing into Montana I had lost an hour – it was, in fact, 16.45 and hence the office was closed. However, they were very helpful and answered all my questions. 

Did the America The Beautiful pass exempt me from the entrance fee? Yes.

What was the Apgar campsite like? Ritzy, was the reply. Oooookay.

Was it self-registration at the campsite? Yes.

They also told me the road to Logan’s Pass was closed beyond the Avalanche campsite – which was ‘primitive’ – and that there were ‘plenty of Loons on Bowman Lake’ further up the west side of the park.

I drove into the Apgar campsite, found a site and registered. The Park pass cut the cost in half so I only had to pay $20 for two nights – bargain! The toilets were flushable, but no showers. The campsite gravelly, but the pegs went in OK and I picked the furthest one from the main entrance. There were quite a few other campers, mainly RVs of various sizes but it seemed quite quiet.

Quiet too on the bird front – I walked down to the nearby Lake McDonald and saw nothing at all. So I went back to camp cooked a meal of potato, carrot, zucchini, beans and a tin of roast beef in gravy and saved enough for the next night. All good. 

Campsite Glacier NP

Warnings about bears everywhere. ALL food stuffs must be in the car unless being used or a fine would result. However, I spoke briefly to the camp host and he told me there were very few bears on this side of the park. On the East side (a drive of 2.5 hours due to the Logan Pass road being closed) they were ‘everywhere’. Dammit! At least it wasn’t snowing or raining. Snow was expected on Friday, by which time I planned to be miles away.

On every picnic and camping table

Trip List (USA) – 31       Lifers (total) – 9 birds, (+7 Mammals)       New NA – 7 (+4 Mammals)

Day 15 – 25.9.19 Wednesday

It rained lightly during the night and it was a cold, grey, damp dawn. The campsite being in a valley took a long time to get the sun and warm up, but the afternoon was lovely.

I went for a short walk around the quieter, closed sections of the campsite but saw absolutely nothing. I drove up the ‘Sun Rd’ to Avalanche where it was closed – along with a lot of other people. The only bird I saw was a pair of Western Grebes on Lake McDonald, but the scenery was pretty good.

Lake McDonald, Glacier NP

Map of Glacier NP, campsite marked with arrow at left bottom?

I decided to drive the 60 kms to Bowman Lake but in my usual way ended up somewhere else, outside the park in Columbia Falls. The roads were pretty good and there was only one turn off, but I thought that wasn’t the way so……ended up back at the campsite around 13.00 and not worth driving the 60 kms at that time. On the trip I saw 2 probable Pileated Woodpeckers fly over the road, and, at a random stop, 1 Goosander on the river and a single Black-capped Chickadee and that was it.

I had some lunch and went for a walk through the forest ending up at Apgar Village (during which the only bird I saw was a single Northern Flicker, even though I played owl calls, Black-backed Woodpecker and Grouse) where I bought an obsidian bladed, deer horn knife made by a local craftsman. So, if I’d gone to Bowman I’d have missed the knife, which is pretty unique I think.

Back at camp I rang Yatala and Linc and Pat introduced me to their three new chickens, Marble, Dotty & Brownie. Really nice to be in touch with home. 

I did see a Dark-eyed Junco in the village and two Goosanders and 2 Red-necked Grebes on the lake. Two more Juncos were near my campsite, but that was IT for the day! Surprisingly there were a few butterflies knocking about. 

Unidentified as yet

As I finished writing this a tiny Chipmunk appeared briefly – I believe it was a Least Chipmunk Tamias minimus which is another new mammal for my list.

It seemed like a dead sort of day, but I guess two new birds for my American List and a new mammal means the day wasn’t a total loss.

I had dinner and at dusk walked into the closed, quiet part of the campsite looking for Owls. I used playback and waited till after dark without any result. Then back to camp, bed and an episode of Designated Survivor on the iPad.

Trip List (USA) – 36       Lifers (total) – 9 birds, (+7 Mammals)       New NA – 7 (+4 Mammals)

Day 16 – 26.9.19 Thursday

Awake at 5.30 to wind and spattering rain. The wind was only in the treetops but the rain was at ground level. I made a cup of coffee at 6.30 and walked into the closed section again for a phone call which was great.

Back at camp, packed the tent and the canopy and was on the road by 7.50. It was raining still, grey, dull, half dark – a pretty miserable morning. I drove till 9.30, then had to stop for car-fuel and me-fuel – i.e. petrol and coffee at Swan Lake. ($2.84/gal, $37 total)

Glacier NP, Montana to Yellowstone Wyoming

It would have been a beautiful drive in the right weather through pine forests, alongside lakes and rivers, a winding 70 m/h good quality road with little traffic, during which……

I had my first emergency brake situation of the trip….

A large adult deer pranced out in front of me, all hooves and tail going, dancing across the wet road. I hit the anchors at 110 k/h and it jumped off the road in front of me. Luckily it was a straight stretch of road and there were no other vehicles in sight. My reactions had been good, despite falling into a sort of driving state, and the car had handled well.

I think it was a Mule Deer…..

After another hour or so, the rain eased off to just sporadic showers and the land flattened out somewhat. At one point I saw 2 Bald Eagles circling and stopped to check them out. A Cooper’s Hawk soared over briefly as well. 

Bald Eagle

I drove on. 

Another couple of hours and approaching West Yellowstone across grasslands a falcon perched up caused a turn around, but was gone when I got back. I suspect it was a Prairie Falcon, but couldn’t be sure. However, two Rough-legged Hawks showed up nearby as some compensation.

I reached West Yellowstone at 15.00, 672 kms and 7 hours driving. I filled up with fuel again - $2.94/gal; $32 total. Then headed for Mackers for charging and coffee.

When I’d had enough coffee and charged everything as much as I felt was safe, I headed into Yellowstone National Park. Wow!! Yellowstone! Somewhere I have always dreamt of being.

I stopped for the Yogi Bear type guy at the gate, flashed my pass and asked about camping? 

Not so good.

Only two camp grounds open and both were full last night. I checked the board and Madison (14 miles in) was full but Norris (28 miles in) was ‘open’.

OK – let’s see how it goes.

First up it was busy, traffic wise, I mean really busy, especially the traffic coming out. Within a few miles we all came to a dead stop as 6 American Bison Bison bison (tick) walked down and across the road through the traffic. They are HUGE.  (Never realised they were called American Bison – are there other sorts?) Very impressive. Big muscley shoulders, shaggy coast and beards, yeah, I was impressed. And they could do whatever they wanted.

https://youtu.be/JjFrKJFq_lE

Further up the road another log jam – this time it was a few Elk Cervus elaphus in the trees beside the road.

Further on it was roadworks and we all sat for more than 10 minutes before they allowed us through to Norris camp ground and, sure enough, it was full.

Turn around and drive the 28 miles back to West Yellowstone, passing the Bison again who were still playing chicken with the traffic crawling along everyone hoping they wouldn’t headbutt their car. Pretty cool! Another group of Elk on the opposite side of a river also had people parked (illegally) all over the place. I didn’t stop but did catch a glimpse of a male with a full spread of antlers. Figured I’d see plenty over the next few days. I also passed several thermal pools, but again, didn’t stop – need to find a campsite as its now 17.00

Back at WY I started looking for just that – long story short, I finally found a KOA camp ground 10 miles outside town and went in to check in. I was visualizing a 4 night stay, using their washing machines, having leisurely breakfasts, hot showers, treating myself, blah, blah, blah.

When I said to the guy ‘4 nights please’, he said ‘do you know what’s coming here tomorrow?’ 

‘No’ I said, thinking, maybe the circus?

‘There’s a snow storm coming and it’s expected to dump up to 12 inches of snow here tomorrow night. Its going to blitz BC and west Montana and arrive here over the weekend – probably lasting till Monday.’

Jesus Christ on a sledge! Is it just me? Or what?  

He was a really nice guy with distant Scottish and Irish ancestors, in fact he was wearing a kilt of sorts, ballet shoes, a stud in each nostril, an earring in his right ear, shoulder length hair and was about 5 ft 6. He suggested that I head southeast as the storm would probably only come as far as this area. Of course it would!! I’m here! In fact this campground closes in 5 days, on October the first, until May next year. He reckoned even in May there could be up to 10 feet of snow in the campground.

I paid the $30 for one night and set up camp in the spitting rain. Unable to tie the soaking wet canopy up to a tree (not allowed) I did my best, using it as an awning more or less. I might as well keep the tent as dry as possible. Then I retired to the ‘lounge’ to spread my maps across the floor and try to retrieve something from this unexpected news. 

Campsite - West Yellowstone

I thought I’d head for Cheyenne. I wouldn’t get there tomorrow – too far – but somewhere along the road in that direction. That takes me southeast and still gives me an option on potentially Wisconsin, the Great Lakes and Niagara Falls if I swing north in a few days. First I need to escape the coming storm. It means more or less abandoning North Dakota and Minnesota at least. I figure if the snow is bad here, it’d be worse there, so sadly I won’t get to see those states. I really had wanted to see ND, but that’s life. Get over it and move on. And live…..

I heated up a ‘quick’ meal and ate it standing sheltering from the rain under a pine tree. Then back to the lounge to ensure I, at least, got a full charge on everything for my $30. I won’t have time to use the washing machines so I’ll just have to stay smelly, but I should be able to have a shower and shave.

At least I got two hours in Yellowstone and saw Bison, Elk and hot pools. 

So I had a hot shower, charged everything and headed back to my tent. I was standing in the dark having a last fag when a car pulled up, John, the guy from reception hopped out, thrust a small jar in my hand and said ‘Colin, a small taste of home for you’ I said ‘what is it?’ ‘McAllum’ he said, hopped back in his car and drove away. I don’t normally drink straight whiskey but it went down like fire in my throat and was very welcome.

Trip List (USA) – 41      Lifers (total) – 9 birds, (+8 Mammals)       New NA – 8 (+4 Mammals)

Day 17 – 27.9.19 Friday

The morning dawned cold, clear and sunny. It showed 36F in the car which equals 2C. I got up at 7 and drove to Mackers for breakfast and internet. Had a successful call from France, finally, after trying for ages, which was lovely.

I checked emails, updated stuff and looked at where I might go after I left Yellowstone. I had, by this time, accepted that I had to leave. I was disappointed, but realised it was necessary. No point in putting the whole trip at risk. But it was a lovely day. The best I’d had since arriving in North America. The sun was shining, the sky was blue with puffy white clouds and it was quite warm.

However, leave I did. I had left the canopy and tent up as long as I could to dry them both out as much as possible, so broke camp, hit the road at 11 and headed south in the general direction of Cheyenne, but with no definite plans. I had time to spare now and the only ‘appointment’ I had was in three weeks time in North Carolina.

The drive was very scenic to start with and I only stopped once in the first two hours. Passing a small wetland I noticed two Swans sitting on what appeared to be a bank or island. I jumped out as these were my very first Swans of ANY sort in NA.

And good ones they were – a pair of Trumpeter Swans with two young. How lucky was that? Great views in the scope.

 

Trumpeter Swan

Headed on through the bottom corner of Idaho, the crossed into Wyoming and reached the pass through the Teton Range after driving down along it for quite a while admiring the sheer scenic value of the snow-capped peaks. I stopped at the top of the range and boiled a cup of coffee and sat and enjoyed the view through a cigarette.

Teton Pass

Then on towards Jackson. A few ks out of town another wetland with a pond full of duck brought me to a stop again. American Wigeon, Northern Mallard & American Coots. (My first A Wigeon in NA, having only seen a couple in Ireland previously).

West Yellowstone, Montana to Teton NP, Wyoming via Idaho

On then to Jackson and I was thinking that camping in the Teton National Park would be a possibility? It was a 20 minute drive from busy Jackson town to the NP and I found camping at Jenny Lake, tents only (thanks God, no RVs) campsite. As I was checking in a Least Chipmunk scurried around and as I drove in a Red Fox trotted calmly past the sign advising 

‘DON’T FEED THE FOXES’. 

I found a campsite (no 26) set up camp and relaxed with coffee again. 

Campsite @ Teton NP

Later I went for a drive through the park – along with a lot of other rubberneckers – and saw some close up Elk. At the Jackson Hole Dam I saw approx 100 Goosanders, American White Pelican, Double-crested Cormorants and a Golden Eagle flew over putting everything up. A couple of  roadside Mule Deer, one again trying to kill itself in front of me, but it wasn’t an emergency at 45 m/hr and that was it. 

Then it was back to camp and a make-up dinner that, surprisingly, tasted quite good.

Elk

Teton National Park

Unfortunately they tell me the storm I ran away from in Yellowstone is suspected of coming here too, so maybe only one night  - which would be a real pain. I really just want to find somewhere nice to camp for a few days, get some washing done, cook nice meals and bird! Although birding might not be an option as there are still very, very few birds around – certainly in the passerine range.

Trip List (USA) – 48     Lifers (total) – 10 birds, (+8 Mammals)       New NA – 9 (+4 Mammals)

Day 18 – 28.9.19 Saturday

I was running again.

I woke at 5 to ……..rain again. Persistent, but not heavy.  I got up at 7 and made a cup of coffee. The camp host came round and I asked him if it was going to snow? Probably not at this altitude – 6,800 meters - BUT the rain was going to continue till Tuesday. Shit! And he was closing the campsite tomorrow anyway. Double shit. I could stay the night if I wanted but……

I decided to evacuate and broke camp in full wet gear wrapping up the damp tent and the soaking canopy and bundling them into the boot.

As I did so he came back and said ‘You wanted to know when it was going to snow?’ I said ‘Yeah’ He said ‘It’s snowing NOW’ and laughed and he was right – it was a sleety kind of snow, but snow it was. He also told me the Teton Pass where I had made coffee, and sat in the sun, yesterday had been closed overnight due to the snowfall.

I hit the road by 8.30 and headed into Jackson. The snow increased as I drove and big flakes were on the windscreen as I drove through town and hit the road south. I had no real plans  - just to get out and worry about it later. The road out of Jackson wound up through the mountains and the snow on the ground increased, but turned to sleet  as I drove. 

Eventually I hit the plateau at about 7,100 feet and continued on across a boring landscape, flat and featureless, rain constant.

It didn’t ease until about 10.30 and I dropped down somewhat to a brighter morning but across endless prairie with little to offer. I got to Round Springs around 12.30 and stopped for fuel ($2.71/gal, $37) and a coffee. Then on again having decided to head for Woods Landing just outside Cheyenne, turnoff at Laramie. I was looking at the map I saw that in South Dakota just across the border from Wyoming, where I presently was, was Mt Rushmore and I thought that might be my next destination, but too to go far today.

I drove on, running south away from the snow and rain, I hoped, the sun shining, the sky clear, but very, very windy with warnings along the highway regarding strong wind gusts that shoved the car across the road. However, it was a main four-lane highway at 80 m/hr (125 k/h) and I just sat in cruise control and negotiated my way past trucks and RVs.

Teton NP to Woods Landing, Wyoming

I finally reached the turn off outside Laramie just after 16.00 and headed for the nearest Walmart to pick up a few supplies. Then the 60 kms to Woods Landing and hopefully a campsite.

I found a campground alright. 

It was the only thing AT Woods Landing, but it was sheltered in a hollow backed by hills and so not too windy.

I asked for a campsite and an older woman who looked like the main character from that movie, 7 (?) Billboards in Billings (was that it?) took my $33 and told me to pick a site beside the RVs. The ‘site’ was a scrappy piece of ground, rough as shit, dog turds everywhere and trying to get the pegs in was a nightmare. But I had little choice. I was knackered after the stress of getting out of Teton and the 7 hour drive (670 ks) and just needed to get some food, have a shower and go to bed. I did all that – and washed some clothes in the shower as there were no laundry facilities – then crashed with my E-Reader and iPad.

Campsite @ Woods Landing

I saw no birds of any worth on the drive. Despite the miles and miles of prairie I didn’t see anything that looked like a Prairie Falcon. I did see a couple of Red-tailed Hawks, 2 Bald Eagles and a handful of Black-billed Magpies and that was it.

Talking to the camp host at Teton – a large guy, young, smoking a big fat cigar, but very friendly and helpful – I thought it might still be possible to get to the Great Lakes and Niagara, looping around from here in the southeast and heading northeast in a few days. I have a lot of time on my hands so just want to find a place to settle down and bird for a few days. I didn’t think Wood Landing was the place…..

Trip List (USA) – 48     Lifers (total) – 10 birds, (+8 Mammals)       New NA – 9 (+4 Mammals)

Day 19 – 29.9.19 Sunday 

I slept well and at 7 got up and had poached eggs for breakfast. Then I went for a walk around the area seeing nothing but a couple of Black-billed Magpies.

So I went for a drive up a dirt road I had noticed on the way in which indicated that Medicine Bow National Forest was up the road. I drove up a quiet dirt road that wound up the valley beside a small creek, named, inappropriately I thought, Big Laramie River. 

There were a few birds when I parked and walked – Black-capped Chickadee, Ruby-crowned Kinglets and two Northern Mockingbirds. Above in the sky a couple of Red-tailed Hawks.

Then the wind started to invade the valley and birding became impossible.

I was in two minds. What should I do? 

As the man said ‘Do I stay or should I go’?

Stay another night in this awful campsite or move on. 

It was over 500 ks to Custer, another 6 hour drive, but there were some birds HERE.

I drove back to camp, my mind more or less made up to go. When I got back the decision was immediate. A howling wind was assaulting the canopy and tent and it was only 9.30.

I packed as quickly as I could, bundling everything roughly into the boot and took off. Back to Laramie and Mackers for internet access – and a coffee and apple tart.

Then I hit the road again, at 11.30.

Woods Landing, Wyoming to Custer, South Dakota

The drive was OK. I stopped after an hour and fueled up again – most expensive petrol I’ve seen. $3.23/gallon, put in $40 worth which just about filled the tank anyway. Then on again, turning off the main highway onto a two lane road towards Lusk, and then on to Custer in South Dakota. 

Most of the drive was across boring prairie with some interesting low bluffs along the way. The temperature was about 70F, or 21C, the sun was shining, the sky was blue, the puffy clouds white and clean looking.

I stopped at the state line for a smoke and saw 2 Kildeer. Along the way several Red-tailed Hawks, one low- flying Bald Eagle and heaps of Pronghorn. I assume they’re wild, I must have seen close to 100 in fields beside the road - a handsome animal and apparently North America’s only native deer.

Pronghorn

Arrived in Custer at 16.00. Looked pretty cool, lots of places named after famous western characters and places. I followed the signs for the State Park having looked it up briefly on E-Bird, which showed a list of 244 species and some wanted ones among them, and checked camping was available and reached the sign-in hut. 

It was closed. 

As I stood there wondering what to do, a car pulled up with, as it turned out, the camp hosts who immediately took charge and I ended up with a nice campsite for two nights for $22/night plus a $20 entrance fee for the park.

I set up camp and relaxed for a while, then went for a short drive to check out part of the park.

Campsite @ Custer State Park

I saw a Red-necked Grebe and three Horned Grebes on Stockade Lake, but little else before dusk.

I cooked, ate and showered washing my pants and shirt in the shower, hoping it wouldn’t rain and they’d dry off tomorrow.

I was looking forward to relaxing over the next day or so and getting some birding in.

Trip List (USA) – 51     Lifers (total) – 10 birds, (+9 Mammals)       New NA – 9 (+4 Mammals)

Day 20 – 30.9.19 Monday 

It wasn’t to be. 

First off I couldn’t sleep. Don’t know why, but just couldn’t drop off and, after watching an episode of Designated Survivor and reading, I was still awake at 1.00 when it started to rain.

It wasn’t super heavy but the electrical storm that came with scared the living bejasus out of me. I lay there waiting for the lightning strike that would end it all and put my sorry ass out of its misery, but, no, instead, a peg pulled out and a pole fell down. I nearly shit myself, then I was out in the rain, and small hail now to boot, stark naked, trying to decide what to do.

I managed to stabilize the tarp by winding the guy rope around the end of the tent pole and crawled back into my sleeping bag, damp and cold.

The storm moved on, but the rain continued drizzling and spitting with occasional flurries. Luckily there was no wind. I finally fell asleep, but was awake again just after 6. I got a phone call which made the day a lot brighter, then got up and made sure none of the pegs would ever come out again before sitting in the car and watching the re-arranged canopy to make sure the rain didn’t pool in it again.

Once I was happy that was OK, and I’d had two cups of coffee, I decided to take my wet clothes (the ones I had washed last night, har, har) to a launderette in Custer. It cost me a dollar to dry them while Elvis crooned about lovin’ me tender on the operator’s CD player. Oh joy!!

Then I headed off to the Crazy Horse Monument.

On the way I stopped off at a gift/gun/knife shop that had a sign outside saying ‘Bikers welcome’ and bought a small horn-handled sheath knife from a small, large lady who dropped $5 off the price for me without asking. I was half expecting Sons of Anarchy to turn up but got away before they did.

The monument was much more complex than I had imagined. $12 to get in, a museum all about North American Indians which was fascinating, full of interesting stuff, a video presentation on how the guy started to carve the mountain up and an additional $4 bus ride to the base of the mountain. Apparently it’s the biggest rock carving in the world. Pretty impressive considering they’ve been working on it for 71 years…. 

I reckon they’ve got another 7 HUNDRED & 71 years to go at this rate.

This is what the finished product should look like - not in MY lifetime!

Another 20 ks or so and I was outside the Mt Rushmore entrance. It cost $10 to park, but I photographed it from the outside. Not because I’m too mean, but because I wasn’t interested in all the crap that would go with it if I went in. I don’t care how long it took or who and what happened, I just wanted to see the rock face and was happy to see it from the road.

On the way back to Custer the sun broke through!

For 10 minutes……

……then it was back to mist and damp and wet, but no more rain, thank Christ.

I had some lunch at ‘home’ and while the kettle was boiling the second best thing of the day happened. I heard a whistle type call and looking up saw two Grey or Canada Jays in the treetops overhead. I’d given up on these as I was too far south, I thought. However, there they were and, when I checked the book, the Black Hills around the Custer area was there most southerly range point.

I headed out around 2 and drove the park roads for the next two and a half hours looking for birds. 

I saw 4 Northern Mockingbirds at one point together, 3 distant White-tailed Deer that white-tailed it outta there almost as soon as I saw them, about 200 Bison, or Buffalo as the locals call them, they had all been rounded up last week and were now corralled (I don’t know why) and one Chipmunk sp, but only in the rear vision mirror as he hightailed it, literally, across the road behind me. When he ran he held his tail vertical, maybe to save it getting wet?

And that was it, despite driving at 20 m/hr, stopping at likely spots, walking parts of the road, playing owl calls…..it was just D. E. A. D. Dead! No sounds, no movement, no nothing.

Which led me to my next decision.

Where to go from here?

I decided to forget the birding options for the moment. It seemed pointless. I was just not getting anything for time spent. Yeah, I know I had Grey Jay today and that was brilliant, but Jesus, the hours I was putting in for very little result?

So. 

I wanted to see the Great Lakes and Niagara Falls.

I thought the birds MIGHT be better nearer the east coast – i.e. Washington DC, Carolinas etc.

So. 

For the next few days I would head basically directly for the Great Lakes, probably to around Rapid Falls northeast of Chicago, 1,845 kms away. I reckoned on four days maximum. Then I’d go to Niagara and then south to the Cape May area and so on. It would mean a lot of driving this coming week, but it’d put me in the, hopefully, better birding areas earlier than I originally planned. The weather at each potential overnight stop was forecast as rain/showers/rain so I expected to be using motels for the next few days.

Back at camp it was dead still, a thick mist had descended and it was very quiet. Two adult White-tailed Deer and a fawn came between me and the toilet block. The photo was from my tent site. 

Like most deer seen close up they are truly beautiful and appearing out of the mist, very lovely.

Fingers crossed it won’t rain tonight. I sat in the toilet block where it was warmer and I had power to charge stuff from the electric shaver socket. Then it was off to bed and the iPad and E-reader.

Trip List (USA) – 52     Lifers (total) – 11 birds, (+9 Mammals)       New NA – 9 (+4 Mammals)

I've uploaded a video of the Bison in the traffic on 27th on UTube and the link is now in the blog on that date.

(Continued in Weekends That Were - October 2019)


7.9.19

Moggill State Forest

My turn to drive so I collected Mr D at 6 and we arrived on-site at 6.30. Very, very dry – as we expected. It had been very windy overnight too and the wind persisted but with less effect in the steep sided valley.

However, it was still very quiet at first – in fact, it was very quiet overall but we did come across an area of activity two thirds of the way in and a few quality birds.

White-browed Scrub Wrens and a pair of Large-billed Scrubwrens were in evidence near the entrance. It took us a while to find anything else but eventually Grey Fantails, a Rufous and Golden Whistlers showed, a single White-eared Monarch (quite reliable at this location) perched up well, if briefly, and Mr D called in a Shining Bronze Cuckoo.  He also claimed to hear 3 or 4 Rose Robins, only one of which we managed to see. A pair of Little Shrike Thrushes flew in while we stood around – again, quite reliable here – and on the way out, bird of the morning – a Noisy Pitta hopped across the track in front of us through a patch of sunlight.

We retired to the Plum in Kenmore for the usual post-birding breakfast.

1.9.19

Minnippi

Another birdy morning, this time with Mr P. Started at 6.30 on-site. The lake level has dropped further – especially the ‘middle’ section offering hope for some ‘sea’ waders in the near future if it stays this way. The water was quite busy with good numbers of Wandering Whistle Ducks, Eurasian Coots,  Hardheads,  Australian Grebes,  Grey Teal and Comb-crested Jacanas along with the usual Black Ducks,  Dusky Moorhens etc.

A Red-kneed Dotterel, 5 Black-fronted and a Buff-banded Rail poked around on the exposed mud. Another 2 Buff-banded Rails showed on opposite sides of the main island and 2 Latham’s Snipe showed in the background. Later 2 Glossy ibis arrived and subsequently seemed to have disappeared and scanning the main lake from the end before departure exposed a Yellow-billed and a Royal Spoonbill. A single Spotless Crake put in an on/off appearance on the opposite side of the pond from the boardwalk – Mr P had seen it there last weekend too. Passerine-wise it was much same-same as usual, apart from an apparent ‘fall’ of Spangled Drongos – we estimated about 8-10. No raptors seen at all.

It seems to be bat-time at the moment – today it was a dead Grey-headed Flying Fox Pteropus poliocephalus under the main fig tree beside the raptor lookout – no apparent damage and I thought at first, by size, it was a Little Red, however, its fur was all over grey, the legs furred only half-way down and the wing membrane quite black.

Grey-headed Flying Fox Pteropus poliocephalus