Birding 2009

 10.1.09

Lamington NP

After dropping Robert & Di at Coolangatta airport for the start of their Vietnam trip Stuart and I headed for Binna Burra and the Rufous Scrub-bird. Arriving at 8.15 we headed into the rainforest and 2 hours and several LOGRUNNERS, BROWN CUCKOO-DOVES, BLACK-FACED MONARCHS, BROWN GERYGONES and a single female PARADISE RIFLEBIRD later we were within 100 meters of our chosen site. 

Checking the small creeks we crossed we came across a Lamington plateau ‘blue’ crayfish. These things grow to a fair size, despite the tiny creek pools they reside in. This one was no exception being about 20cms from end to end. We took some photos of it in the shallow pool then I decided that picking it up would provide better opportunities. Big mistake! These things have a mean streak. They can reach over their back with their claws and reach your hand – which this one did and latched onto my thumb just beside the nail. F…..ar out!! I immediately let go and it hung swinging from my thumb staring evilly at me with its beady eyes as I cursed and begged Stuart to get this f****ing thing off me! He was busy taking off his backpack!! Why? To get his freaking camera!! Meanwhile for some reason my left hand swung within reach of this blue devil and he promptly grabbed the back of my left thumb with his other claw!! Now I’m standing holding out both hands with a blue monster hung between them!! The pain in both hands made my eyes water and Stuart finally relinquished the camera idea and came to my assistance. We struggled to prise apart the little bugger’s claw tips and while doing so he saw his opportunity, shed the claw, let go my left hand, dropped to the ground and scuttled off. The claw still attached continued to close until eventually we managed to get it off and mop up the blood oozing from the injury. God, it hurt! 

I felt terrible – not because of my hand, but because he had lost his claw – that had never been my intention at all.

We tried for a couple of hours to lure the RSB out of its thicket – unsuccessfully. We heard it calling, but not very enthusiastically, and figured it was probably near the end of the breeding season and territory was not so much an issue, therefore response was slow. 

Heading back we reached the car park at about 14.30 and relaxed with some orange & almond cake and skinny whites, extra hot.

As we drove back towards Brisbane we stopped off at a Grey-headed Flying fox colony near Canungra and watched the locals socialising and, in a few cases, licking themselves ‘cause they can’ – much to Stuart’s amusement. They were quite well endowed and not afraid to show it! 

We reached the Logan area around 15.30 and walked to the described spot for Little Grassbird. The lagoon and grass/reedbed is in a residential area with a well used bike path running to a footbridge. Immediately we got there we heard LITTLE GRASSBIRD calling and subsequently had a pair flying around within a couple of meters of us. Very difficult to photograph as they rarely stopped moving and there was a stiff breeze complicating matters, however, I did manage to get some record shots and Stuart did get his tick well ticked!

Headed home – still nursing my aching hands…..

15 - 20.1.09

Cairns & Tablelands

Australia, North Queensland - Cairns - January 15 – 20th 2009.

Published by Colin Reid 

Participants: Colin Reid, Stuart Warren

Overview: Two birders based in Brisbane (southern Qld) birding in the Cairns and Tablelands area (approx 1500kms north of Brisbane) for 6 days. We visited the mangrove areas, Cairns esplanade and the tablelands - mainly in the areas around Kingfisher Park and Cassowary House.

Getting there and getting around: Flew with Virgin from Brisbane to Cairns ($88 each way, daily special) and hired a car from Hertz . We had booked a Yaris ($225) as the cheapest option but were eager to get up Mt Lewis which, after the recent cyclone, would possibly require a 4WD,however, the road conditions and access were unknown so outlaying $600+ for a possible one day trip up Mt Lewis was a bit more than we could handle. However, the birding God smiled and Hertz asked us if we would ‘mind’ if they upgraded us to a Toyota Rav 4 All Wheel Drive. Mind? Would we? We almost kissed the guy!! Perfect – Mt Lewis was now a certainty so long as the road was open. We spent a total of $82 on fuel, and at 92 – 95cents a litre this was not a problem.

Accommodation: We had pre-booked 4 nights accommodation at Kingfisher Park in the Bunkhouse. On our arrival, however, Lindsay offered us an upgrade to a unit at a cost we would have been foolish to ignore and we were very glad of the change. With our own fridge, kitchenette, toilet and shower and in the wet and muggy conditions it was a much preferable option to the bunkhouse. (Certainly something to consider if there is more than one of you and it is summer.) It is also important to make bulk food purchases prior to travelling up to Julatten as there is not much scope to buy food in the immediate area. The Highlander does a very good evening meal, and huge coffees, and there are various other eateries within easy driving that we didn’t experiment with. 

We had also booked a night, bed and breakfast, (Monday) at Cassowary House in Kuranda with Sue and Phil Gregory. We were offered the option of a cooked evening meal or self catering and chose the latter – luckily as it happened as I had provided the wrong day/date combination and our arrival on the Monday night was a surprise to Sue!

Preparation: I had birded the area previously (Oct 2007) and had some idea of the local areas. Additional information is always available from Keith & Lindsay at Kingfisher Park (KFP) and Sue at Cassowary House (CH). Most of the hot spots are probably familiar to any birders interested in the Atherton Tablelands – Abattoir Swamp, KFP itself, Mt Molloy, Marylands, Mt Carbine, Big Mitchell Creek etc – but more of them later…. The trip had been partially inspired by the report of Barn and Red - rumped Swallows at Mossman and we both had wish lists. Stuart’s totalled 105 species, with 65 really possible desirables, mine had, miserable in comparison, 15! 

The Trip

Lifer for one or both of us. New Australian bird for one or both of us
(S) – Stuart (C) - Colin

Thursday 15.1.09. 

Arrived at Cairns on time at 09.20 after an uneventful flight during which our travel companion offered us lollies and then left us with the bag as her grandchildren were not allowed sweets! We enjoyed them. The moist heat hit us as we exited onto the tarmac and made our way to the baggage collection and then hire car areas. Even though we live in Brisbane, the heat in NQ can be stifling. Following our excitement with our car upgrade – see ‘Getting there’ above, we hurried out, located our blue Rav and headed straight for our first birding destination – the mangrove boardwalk on the airport access road. Grabbing bins and camera we walked in the right hand side (there are separate boardwalks, the right hand one is reputedly better for our target bird – Mangrove Robin.) sweating in the still heat and fending off mosquitoes threatening Dengue or Ross River fever (!) we wandered along listening for the call we hoped to hear. Within a few minutes we recorded VARIED HONEYEATER (S), SHINING FLYCATCHER (S), BLACK BUTCHERBIRD (S), CICADABIRD, BROWN HONEYEATER, YELLOW-BELLIED SUNBIRD, MISTLETOEBIRD, DUSKY HONEYEATER (S) and GRACEFUL./YELLOW SPOTTED HONEYEATER. The latter almost impossible to distinguish unless calling – these were not calling so remain specifically unidentified at this location. 

We had almost reached the end of the boardwalk, where the outlook tower stairs are still ‘Under repair’, when we heard the mournful whistle we had been waiting for. The bird answered my poor imitation and, after some time, we caught a glimpse as it flew between mangrove buttresses. Eventually it came close enough for good views and even some poor photos of its undersides. There were two individuals and they chased through the shadows, their black and white plumage perfectly suited to their habitat. At last - MANGROVE ROBIN – a lifer for me (C) as well as Stuart.

Returning rapidly to the car to apply the Tropical strength RID and hopefully ward off the possible diseases transmitted by mosquitoes; we drove on into Cairns and the famous Esplanade. 

The tide was very high and a small flock of mixed species huddled along the edge of the bike path. They were shifty and nervous and continually disturbed by children and non-birders. We approached as close as possible making it obvious we were watching the birds and most walkers steered off the bike path and gave us space. A persistent child on a scooter moved away following my request but hovered at the edge of the wader’s ‘safe space’. BAR-TAILED and a few BLACK-TAILED GODWITS dominated, GREAT KNOT and CURLEW SANDPIPERS made up the rest. A single RED-NECKED STINT caused a bit of excitement for a few minutes until correctly identified. Why is it that a single bird can do that to you? HOUSE SPARROWS, PEACEFUL DOVES, COMMON MYNAS and DOMESTIC DOVES abounded, 40+ Peacefuls in one tree roosting out the heat of the day! More Varied Honeyeaters sang from the parkland trees and an INTERMEDIATE EGRET flew from the encroaching tide. We both spotted a movement in one of the trees further back from the beach and quickly realised it was a number of juvenile METALLIC STARLINGS (S). We got great views as they chased around a large shade tree and appeared to drink from a hollow not far above our heads. As we watched them a PIED IMPERIAL PIGEON (S) flew in to join a previously unseen bird higher in the canopy. The new arrival appeared to regurgitate food and feed the other bird, although both were in adult plumage, possibly some sort of bonding ritual? There was no nest in sight. A pair of WILLIE WAGTAILS, 3 WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-SWALLOWS and 1 WHITE-THROATED HONEYEATER completed our esplanade birding before we moved on into Cairns and lunch. (Eating places are many and varied in the town – the choice is almost limitless) Once we had eaten and had cold drinks followed by hot coffee we drove to Centenary Lakes, parked near the fresh water lake and went for a walk.

Immediately we had MAGPIE GEESE, BEE EATERS, LITTLE BLACK CORMORANT and a flock of WHITE-THROATED NEEDLETAILS low overhead. We walked around the lake and came upon a very exposed BROWN-BACKED HONEYEATER’s (S) nest hanging over the water – a favourite location for this species. As we watched the bird move back and forward with building material Stuart spotted a YELLOW HONEYEATER (S) high in a palm tree on the other side of the lake. Further on and we heard then saw a BRUSH CUCKOO, AUST BRUSH TURKEY and RAINBOW LORIKEETS screamed past. Round a corner and a patch of heavy growth produced a SPANGLED DRONGO with a pair of chicks fresh out of the nest, a pair of Yellow Honeyeaters at head height and a noisy HELMETED FRIARBIRD (S) higher up in the canopy.

Just as I had almost given up on a couple of target birds – they both turned up! ORANGE-FOOTED SCRUBFOWL (S) and YELLOW ORIOLE (S) one after another! This was turning into a total tick fest for Stuart!

We exited the parklands beside a small bridge over a muddy, mangrove lined creek which flows along the edge of the gardens. I had had Little Kingfisher here before so that was our target bird, however, it wasn’t to be and we shortly found ourselves back at the car without any further excitement. We did have, our first for the trip, VARIED TRILLER and WHITE-BELLIED CUCKOO-SHRIKE. A STRIATED HERON was also seen along the path.

We grabbed a cold drink – it was very, very muggy – and headed north towards Port Douglas. Just before the turn off to Yorkey’s Knob we stopped at a side road (Walker’s Rd) between a pitch and putt golfing range and a Go-Kart track. Our target bird here was CRIMSON FINCH (S) and sure enough within a few minutes we had a pair hanging around a grey looking palm (sorry don’t know the species, but they’re pretty obvious!) Good views of them and a few NUTMEG and CHESTNUT-BREASTED MANNIKINS too. SCALY-BREASTED LORIKEET and WHITE-BELLIED SEA EAGLE overhead, AUSTRALIAN PIPIT and Brown and Dusky Honeyeaters completed our list at this location.

We now headed north on one of the best drives, in my opinion, on the east coast. Swooping along the curves of the road beside the ocean and below the forested mountains is a glorious journey and one I always enjoy. We stopped at the appropriate places to take the necessary photos and then turned off after Port Douglas and headed up the range to Julatten. At the second ‘Lookout’ we stopped to see the view. It was wet, had rained not long before and evening was rapidly approaching. A Shrike-thrush tested us for a few minutes, but we agreed it was a Little. A few Pied Imperial Pigeons passed in the distance and then a small, apparently tailless, squeaking parrot silhouetted against the sky – and a cry of ‘Fig Parrot’ – not a good view by any standards but a DOUBLE-EYED FIG PARROT (S) no less!

Heavy skies and a damp feel to the air encouraged us to move on the last few kilometres to Kingfisher Park. As we drove in through the trees, Stuart grabbed my arm and whispered ‘Stop’ – right beside the track and no more than 3 meters from his window was his first BUFF-BREASTED PARADISE KINGFISHER. We sat quietly for several minutes watching this stunning bird fly backwards and forwards to the nest hole, long white tail streamers flicking almost continuously, bright colours luminescence in the dark rainforest. Eventually it disappeared into the gloomy undergrowth and we moved on to check in with Keith and Lindsay. 

We threw our bags into our room and went for a short walk to see the lay of the land, ending at the creek at the back of the property. Most birds had settled down by this stage so we didn’t see much, but did have a few fireflies along the river bank which is always worthwhile. We met a couple from Newcastle travelling in a Wicked camper van and chatted for a while.

As we unpacked and discussed dinner options, a (Lesser) Sooty Owl called outside and we dashed out to try to see it, but despite the whistling bomb sounding like it was going to land on our heads, we didn’t see any sign of the ‘bomber’. As we prepared dinner, Lindsay called us out to see a couple of Bush Rats and huge White-tailed Rat feeding beside the verandah. We crashed early anticipating a big day tomorrow and with 16 new birds and 2 Australian additions Stuart had already had a big day! 

Friday 16.1.09

A damp muggy morning, heavy cloudy cover, bird activity a little muted. Stuart had his first MACLEAY’s HONEYEATER (S) outside the unit immediately – a soggy looking youngster, not in the most impressive plumage. RED-BROWED FINCHES, LAUGHING KOOKABURRA, Sunbirds, SPECTACLED MONARCHS, Peaceful and BAR-SHOULDERED DOVES, Little Shrike Thrush, Metallic Starlings, PALE YELLOW ROBINS, LARGE BILLED GERYGONES,FAIRY GERYGONES, CHANNEL-BILLED CUCKOO, DOLLARBIRD and a pair of EMERALD DOVES joined our list. 2 SPOTTED CATBIRDS (S) were harassing and being mobbed by a pair of Spectacled Monarchs before we met Keith in the Orchard. Shortly afterwards he called to us to follow a call in the canopy, until we picked out our first PIED MONARCH (S,C) which then showed well. As we were admiring its tree creeping abilities and fluffed up nape – stunning stuff! – I noticed another smaller bird nearby and chasing it down identified a female YELLOW-BREASTED BOATBILL (S). Difficult to follow and see clearly, we did eventually achieve great views of its flattened bill and delicate colours. Almost immediately afterwards, Stuart picked up and IDd a pair of GREY WHISTLERS (S), his fourth tick for the day. Well pleased with ourselves we returned to the verandah for a breakfast of cereal, poached eggs on toast and the very important coffee. As we ate we watched the Macleay’s Honeyeaters and Monarchs flitting around the feeders and nearby bushes. Suddenly a larger bird flew in under the eaves, circled once, appeared to pick up a spider or similar insect and flew out again to disappear almost immediately! Stuart, Keith and I almost simultaneously called ’Riflebird’, for that was what it was – a female VICTORIA’S RIFLEBIRD(S)! Keith declared the event ‘unusual’ and brief though the visit had been we had had enough to be satisfied with our identification.

We headed out to Abattoir Swamp after breakfast – a 10 minute drive in the direction of Mt Molloy. As expected we had Brown-backed Honeyeaters in the trees from the boardwalk entrance. A Dollarbird and a few Chestnut-breasted Mannikins were also around. Not long after we arrived WHITE-BROWED CRAKES (S) were calling from 3 locations – the swamp was really flooded and well grassed after the recent rain. We soon had a crake walking along the edge of the pond in full view – I even managed to get some photos - a lifer for me and an Australian tick for Stuart!

Before we left a flock of AUSTRALIAN SWIFLETS (S) arrived to savour the local insect population and a pair of BROWN QUAIL on the side of the road gave us some more excitement for a few minutes!

We drove on to Mt Molloy and straight round to the school on the side road. Exiting the car into the extreme heat Stuart immediately pointed out his 7th and my 2nd lifer for the day – SQUATTER PIGEON!! (S, C) 2 birds inside the new tennis court quickly followed by 2 more outside. We scaled the fence quietly and stalked the closest birds for some time – again I managed to get some acceptable shots. We located the Great Bowerbird bower at the back of the principal’s house and settled in the shade to await the owner’s arrival. Despite waiting 30 minutes or so it was a no-show so we moved on promising to return. We did have BLUE-FACED HONEYEATERs and Rainbow Lorikeets squabbling in the trees on the way out via the front gate and a BLACK KITE overhead along with a few DOUBLE-BARRED FINCHES at the edge of the property. 

Drove on to Lake Mitchell and out along the ‘dam’ wall. There was ‘dam all’ in the lake – a single PELICAN, a few COMB-CRESTED JACANAS and GOLDEN-CROWNED CISTICOLAs. No duck, no herons’ or egrets, no geese. Possibly it’s the time of year when there has been plenty of rain – I had had quite a range of species here 18 months previously. Oh well, guess we had better just go and look for the White-browed Robin then, eh? Along a little further to Big Mitchell Creek, park up and start walking the creek bank – White-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, OLIVE-BACKED ORIOLE, Scaly-breasted Lorikeets, LEADEN FLYCATCHER, Fairy Gerygones and then, perched on a branch over the creek, a Willie Wagtail and a WHITE-BROWED ROBIN! (S).

Turning the air con on high we set off back the way we’d come, back to the school grounds and into the shade again, the Squatter Pigeons still hanging around waiting for the tennis to begin…. A few minutes after we arrived a medium sized bird moved through the bushes in the principal’s yard and then suddenly it was there - a single GREAT BOWERBIRD (S) standing at the bower checking out the stones and bits it had collected. No sign of any pink tufts, presumably because it didn’t display, instead it discreetly moved a few of its treasures around and then silently left the scene. Around the bower these birds are so quiet and unobtrusive. On the way out this time we had a FOREST KINGFISHER and Brown Honeyeater.

Marylands was our next destination, about 15 kms on the Mt Carbine road. We stopped off at Stockyard creek for a quick look but only had a slim non-descript snake sliding smoothly down the creek until it saw us and then it vanished in a split second. Very quiet, very hot.

Turning off at East Mary Farms rd we very quickly saw the first AUSTRALIAN BUSTARD (S), then another, and another and two more and….. finally we stopped counting at 40! The farmer was cutting the grass in the first field on the left and the Bustards were having a ball collecting insects, we assume, as they were exposed. Many Black Kites and AUSTRALIAN BUSHLARKS, too, joined in. Maybe there was some other damaged prey in the grass. We had excellent, long scope views and spent some considerable time enjoying the spectacle. 

Eventually we drove on further up the road to find one of the Bustards within 3 meters of the car, nervously allowing us to move beside it while we both took photos and marvelled at this huge bird standing so close. 

We explored West Mary Farms road too, seeing a few more Bustards, but nothing like the other field. Eventually this road became unsealed but we continued on, leaving the car for a while to walk and listen. Not too far away we heard a gargling cackle and identified it as BLUE-WINGED KOOKABURRA. (S) Tracking them down in the bush took a few minutes, but eventually Stuart got good views of another lifer! A CRESTED HAWK or PACIFIC BAZA flew over the road at one point and further back a pair of COLLARED SPARROWHAWKS carried on a bit for some unidentified reason.

By now darkness was descending in the shape of heavy clouds and threatening rain, thunder rumbled in the distance but we remained curiously dry. Heading back to KFP the rain began in earnest and continued that way for the rest of the evening and into the night precluding any opportunity for night bird watching.

Saturday 17.1.09

Today is Mt Lewis day! Weather looking good despite the rain of last night – damp, bright, clear, we hoped the road hadn’t suffered too much. It was a bit carved up here and there by the rain channelling down, however, it was no effort for the Rav 4 – the clearance providing all the help we needed. We picked up the birding couple from Newcastle about 3 kms up the hill. They had parked the campervan not wanting to risk it. The roads actually improved the further up we went! We stopped a couple of times and walked parts of the road eventually arriving at the car park area at the top. Stuart and I then walked the trail to the dam and back again, while the other birders walked further up the road and then met us on the trail later on. 

We saw a couple of Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfishers fly away from the road and identified 2 RUSSET-TAILED THRUSHES in the same way. A wild pig trotted off the track at one point and we had a family party of CHOWCHILLAS (S) at another and on the track to the dam. BRIDLED HONEYEATER (S) came easily enough and we saw several during the morning. At the car park area we immediately had approx 8 BLUE-FACED PARROT-FINCHES (S) the main target bird on Mt Lewis of course. A very pretty and unusual little finch with it’s blue face (surprise, surprise!), pale green body and red tail – an uncommon colour combination. We also quickly identified ATHERTON SCRUBWREN (S) and MOUNTAIN THORNBILL (S) along with Red-browed Finches, GOLDEN WHISTLER, EASTERN WHIPBIRD, EASTERN SPINEBILL, Grey Whistler, Spotted Catbird, RUFOUS and GREY FANTAIL (northern sub sp), Mistletoebird, YELLOW-THROATED SCRUBWREN and Pale Yellow Robin. It took us a while, surprisingly, but again maybe it’s the different season, but we finally got good views of GREY-HEADED ROBIN (S) – usually an easy trail-hopping bird. Fernwren was a bird we especially wanted to see. I had had a brief experience last year in Paluma, but it would be a new bird for Stuart and we had been keenly listening for any sign of it without success. As we began our return trip from the dam,just past the junction in the track a movement just inside the forest edge drew my attention, grabbing Stuart’s arm I pointed and there feeding behind a family party of Chowchillas was our target, a male FERNWREN (S). We stalked it carefully down the slope gaining excellent views as it fed in the leaf litter. (Apparently it is common for Fernwrens to follow Chowchillas – a fact worth noting I think.) The final birds we had been seeking on Mt Lewis were Tooth-billed Bowerbird and Bower’s Shrike Thrush. Both were proving elusive. We had heard both calling but had failed to get satisfactory views of either and now, late in the morning, the birds were shutting down as the heat took over. We decided that as the road was in good condition we would come back tomorrow to follow up on these two birds and headed back to the car, the sweat running down our backs, looking forward to the warming cans of Sprite we had left there. 

Once we had slaked our thirst on the sweet fizzy drinks we decided to walk further up the road to follow up on reports of Fig Parrots we had heard about. Not far up the road before the gate into the National Park section we heard the zit call and located 2 birds quietly feeding in a tree right beside the road. These have got to be the quietest parrots ever! They are so discrete it would be easy to overlook them. We had excellent views from relatively close range for some time before they moved higher and eventually disappeared into the foliage. As we walked back to the car two birds flew into the clearing and landed in separate trees – BARRED CUCKOO-SHRIKES - a very welcome addition to our list and great views again! Finally as we reached the car a WHITE-CHEEKED HONEYEATER appeared in a tree beside us – a strange species we thought for location and habitat, but a regular breeder we found out later from Keith.

We drove back down Mt Lewis and then down the range to the Mossman/Port Douglas road and headed north – on the Swallow quest.

The immigrants had been reported as inhabiting a barn on the side of the road past the Newell Beach turnoff just north of Mossman and sure enough we found them there. A single RED-RUMPED SWALLOW (C) perched on a wire inside the barn and, across the main road, 4 or 5 BARN SWALLOWS (S, C) perched on the beams inside a second newer barn. The Red-rump flew out of the barn and circled a couple of times before disappearing – we didn’t see it again, but did have good views of its main characteristics. I managed to get some acceptable photos of the Barn Swallows – both adult and immature – perched inside the other barn along with local WELCOME SWALLOWS for perfect comparison. 

It started to rain and we retreated to Mossman and enjoyed enormous mugs of coffee in the main street while the rain washed the Mt Lewis mud off the car. Heading back to KFP it stopped but by now the light was fading and the rain started again not long after our return so we opted for the Highlander for dinner – on the corner as we turned in, a bedraggled BUSH STONE CURLEW showed in the headlights!

Sunday 18.1.09 

Back up Mt Lewis – earlier this morning, as daylight slowly appeared. Stopping along the track checking fly bys, calls. Listening. Eventually near the top a Fernwren - like bird across the track proves to be just that and we watch a pair in close range foraging for breakfast. Back on the track and a bird high in a tree attracts my attention – it’s, finally, a TOOTH-BILLED BOWERBIRD (S) We get the scope on it and enjoy stunning views. In time we see several and a Victoria’s Riflebird - another female unfortunately. A Superb Fruit-dove is calling and I am trying to get onto it, but just cannot see it in the canopy. We wander up and down the road and finally get dent views of BOWER’S SHRIKE THRUSH (S). A small flock of TOPKNOT PIGEONS fly over head as we walk down towards the NP gate on the road and again we find Double-eyed Fig parrots and again get great, almost intimate, views. A few Blue-faced Parrot-finches fly along the road ahead of the car as we leave.

As we reached the bitumen and sped towards the Highlander on the corner Stuart grabbed my arm and urged me to stop! He had spotted what developed into the biggest grey morph GREY GOSHAWK either of us had ever seen perched in a tree on the far side of the paddock. We watched as a Magpie Lark mobbed it and irritated it flew off along the tree line – wow it was huge!!

On now to a spot I hadn’t been to before – Mowbray State Forest via Pinnacle road. As we crossed a small bridge over a creek a dark, chicken sized bird scuttled off the road into the grass and Stuart called ‘BUSHHEN’ – we came to a halt further up the road and walked quietly back to the culvert. Two birds were calling and came right to the edge of the grass but would not come out again – probably wary of flying Rav 4s…..

Reaching the track entrance at Clayton’s Place, we birded along the road immediately outside, our target here was Superb Fruit Dove. We could hear them calling but could not locate them high in the canopy. As we searched two small cuckoos flew in – LITTLE BRONZE CUCKOO and a GOULD’S BRONZE CUCKOO (S) together! Both calling, clearly different, views not the best, but identifiable.

As we searched for the fruit-dove we became aware of a trilling, a quick movement and we had another cuckoo in sight – strong deep chestnut colour from the throat right down to the vent. Dark contrasting blue grey on the cap, head, nape and wings. The bird appeared a little smaller than the average Fan-tailed Cuckoo, but that may have been the perception from the stronger colouring present in this bird. It called a few more time and then flew – and we lost it. A few minutes later, however, the trilling began again, but we struggled to see the bird in the dense canopy. 15 minutes, 30 minutes, how long would this bird keep calling? We searched and searched every twig, every branch; we tried to triangulate – nothing. Finally it flew again to a high exposed branch and we quickly got the scope onto it and picked out the features, until again it flew and this time disappeared into the distance. We listened to the calls on tape and there was no doubt – CHESTNUT-BREASTED CUCKOO(S, C), the call was quite distinct, especially after listening to it intensely for nearly an hour! 

We decided to hike into the forest to look further for the Fruit-doves. The track was rough, muddy and quite wet after the recent rain. We didn’t find any Superb Fruit-doves, but we did come across a group of NOISY PITTAS which called and flew quite close to us affording good views. We also had Dusky Honeyeater, Emerald Dove, Spectacled Monarch and WOMPOO FRUIT-DOVE (calling only). 

As we exited the forest again a Forest kingfisher attracted our attention and scanning for it through the bins Stuart picked up a pair of Fig Parrots inspecting a dead tree for nesting (?) or food (?). We had great views of them as they climbed around the exposed perch before taking off for more interesting trees! Another Bush hen was calling continuously from a nearby field as we drove off.

Keith at KFP had suggested we have a look on Wessel’s Rd near Abattoir Swamp for Lovely Fairy-wren, a species we both wanted to see. We stopped in at the Highlander for a huge coffee before heading for that destination.

The road in is bitumen and then a good condition unsealed road runs through a swampy area labelled as nature reserve – not sure what the background is, but it certainly is worth birding. We had another new bird for Stuart – a NORTHERN FANTAIL (S) provided great views as it fly- hunted along a fence line. We also had Cicadabird, Leaden Flycatcher, Brush Cuckoo, Varied Triller, Brown-backed and Yellow Honeyeaters and Stuart flushed another Bush hen, among lots of other commoner species. It started to rain as we neared the end of the road system and we headed back to KFP for our last night on the tablelands. 

Thankfully the rain eased and stopped shortly afterwards and so we had time for another walk around KFP in the late afternoon. Our target this time was LARGE-BILLED GERYGONE (S) and after sometime walking the edge of the forest and along the riverbank we found one over the river from the seat beyond the orchard.

Darkness fell and we had dinner, then prepared for a spotlighting appointment at 19.00. Out to Geraghty park, a short walk into the open field and not long after 7, as predicted, 2 MASKED OWLS (S) emerged from a hole we couldn’t see high in a gum tree. We watched as they flew from branch to branch calling occasionally and preening after their long day in, presumably, cramped conditions. We decided to leave them in peace after an interval and headed back across the field to check out the other trees – a white shape and I spotted a BARN OWL perched high in another gum – it called and the difference was noticeable from the Masked Owls. The facial disc was more heart shaped and the legs more exposed – less feathered. Two Owl species in 10 minutes! We were well pleased! 

We decided to look in the orchard for Frogmouths but as we descended the track through the rainforest towards the spot we had a greater reward. Perched like a Yellow Robin on a hanging vine at head height about 3 meters in front of us was a SOOTY OWL – a Lesser Sooty Owl in the old books. Talk about great viewing! It hung there occasionally looking at us, then looking elsewhere as we stood transfixed. I left it with Stuart and dashed back to the unit to get my camera – always the way isn’t it? Returning it was still in position but moved almost as soon as I prepared for an award winning shot. Moving to a higher branch but still within brilliant viewing distance I took a couple – unfortunately cutting off its head as I couldn’t see it through the lens….

There Owl species in 20 minutes!! Wow!!We looked for but didn’t find any frogmouths in the orchard.

Monday 19.1.09

We had booked for a cruise on the Daintree at 6.00 with Chris Dahlberg and woke at 3.45 to the sound of rain, heavy rain. Hoping it was only local rain we finished packing and dashed everything into the car. The power had gone out too so we managed with headlights. No water for coffee or washing up, we settled for cereal and left a note of apology.

The drive down the range and up the coast took just over an hour, we arrived in Daintree at 5.20, I had allowed plenty of time and so we snoozed in the car while we waited, but the rain continued. Chris turned up and we discussed the situation – it wasn’t worth venturing out so we made tentative suggestions for the next day and then headed back towards Cairns. Stopping off at Port Douglas for breakfast we discussed our options – and used a talking toilet. I didn’t really need to, but it had so amused Stuart that I just had to see it for myself. Basically it told you it couldn’t ‘see you cause you hadn’t moved and threatened to open the door if you didn’t move! Somebody with a very sick mind developed that – I waved my arm to let it know I was still engaged, however, I am sure others had leapt up and hopped around in their panic – imagine the video tapes for the Christmas party!

Keith had told us about the possibility of Pied Herons at a waste transfer station near Port Douglas and had supplied us with a bag of recyclables as an entry pass! We hadn’t seen any sign of a ‘dump’ on our way down but on heading back up the road towards Mossman we came across the sign on the left pointing to a small side road – Killaloe waste transfer station. Worth noting the sign can only be read from the south, the reverse side is blank and it is not very far north of Port D, I forgot to note the mileage. There is only the transfer station on the road and when we told the guy on the gate that we had a bag of recyclables to dump he waved us through and told us to go to Bay 1. It’s a very small dump and we immediately saw the PIED HERONS (S, C) – 6 of them in various plumages hanging out around some rain puddles and a culvert. As we watched they flew up to the lip of a large waste bin and started poking around the rubbish in there! All in all a poor environment to see such a lovely bird – but we were still happy to add it to both our Australian lists!

The rain had eased by now and we called Chris again in the hope of maybe driving back to Daintree, however, he was unavailable so we headed south again towards Cairns. All along the ocean road water cascaded down the rocks creating temporary waterfalls – something you don’t see every day.

Stopped off at Yorkey’s Knob in the expectation of Green Pygmy Goose – but to my surprise there were no ducks at all. We did see a pair of Crimson Finch and Black Butcherbirds and we did meet a local who told us they had been there but had left a few days ago – she didn’t know why or where. Dam! This was mine – and everyone else we had asked - best location for GPG.
We had thought about our options and decided that the Barron Falls in full flow was probably worthwhile seeing so we headed into Cairns and booked a trip on the Skyrail (cablecar) to Kuranda and the train trip back down. (Round trip $175 for two) leaving at around midday we needed to get the 14.30 train back so we had time to get to Cassowary House before dark.

Before we left we had a quick look along the esplanade, the tide was about half way and we saw similar birds to our first visit plus a couple of Striated Herons, TEREK SANDPIPER, LESSER SAND PLOVER and LITTLE TERN. 

The falls were spectacular and we spent the next 4 hours playing tourist, taking photos and videos and buying souvenirs, having coffee in Kuranda and falling asleep on the train….the only bird of note being a Bush Stone-Curlew under the skyrail just before the Kuranda stop.

We retrieved our car and headed up the range – once we had done battle with other road users in Cairns, probably copped a speeding ticket and taken the wrong road …..arriving at Cassowary House and meeting Sue Gregory at about 16.30. She was a little surprised to see us as I had provided the wrong day/date combination in my email and she had been expecting us on Tuesday…. However it was no major inconvenience – we were the only guests, our room was ready and we were self catering. As we stood on the verandah with Sue she pointed out a MUSKY RAT KANGAROO searching for food in the garden below and explained how upset it would be if it heard me referring to it as a ‘rat’….

We dumped our bags and went for a walk around. Spectacular habitat, heavy rainforest, tall canopy, good undergrowth, open areas and a good sized creek – and that was just the garden! Down on the riverbank a Victoria’s Riflebird, a female again, landed close by and a LITTLE KINGFISHER (S) sat quietly on the other side of the creek. 

We walked up the road towards the entrance of the National Park, then down the track there to the creek again. We heard a Fernwren and Catbirds, but as the light was failing we headed back up to the road continuing on for a short distance. I was walking a little distance ahead of Stuart when I heard a strange deep breathing kind of noise in the forest. Signalling Stuart, who approached quietly we both listened and heard it again – Cassowary? Nothing moved but the noise ceased and we heard no more. A fruit-dove landed high on an exposed branch over the road and, although partially silhouetted, we could make out the white belly and light green flanks, minimal cap and green upperparts of a female SUPERB FRUIT-DOVE (S, C) – lousy view, but undoubtedly our long sought target. It sat long enough for us to discuss its vital stats then flew off to roost. We also had a Wompoo Fruit-dove a few minutes earlier for comparison.

We headed back to Cassowary House discussing the next day’s activities and plans for dinner. As we turned the corner in the driveway Stuart grabbed my arm and whispered RED-NECKED CRAKE (S) in my ear and there it was, a single bird casually wandering around a large rain puddle in the wheel ruts! It wasn’t the best view either but it did last for some time as the bird walked away and then back towards us before heading off into the undergrowth.

We carried on and spent the evening chatting to Sue as we prepared dinner, then crashed for our last night in N Qld.

Tuesday 20.1.09

Up early and out to search the garden again. It was raining lightly, then heavier, driving us back to our room by 8.00. Sue called us to breakfast and we spent the rest of the morning on her verandah enjoying a leisurely breakfast of fruit and coffee as the rain bucketed down. Macleay’s Honeyeaters came to feed beside the verandah as we hopefully scanned the sky through the dripping trees. Finally at 12.30 it eased enough for us to venture out and we wandered the garden again with only a 3.5- 4 meter AMESTHINE PYTHON for company before heading 3.8 kms up the road to search for another target – Lovely Fairy-wren. 

We walked up and down a section of road beside a pine forest, which, Sue had assured us, was a favourite haunt of the species. We saw other commoner species such as Red-browed Finches, Silvereyes, Little Shrike Thrush and Dusky Honeyeaters but despite our search it appeared no LFW. We had agreed that we needed to leave Cassowary House at 14.45 to get to Cairns airport for our 16.30 flight. It was 14.00 and we still had to finish packing. We trudged back towards the car and suddenly, there it was, a stunning female LOVELY FAIRY-WREN (S, C) flitting through the foliage at the edge of the bush and what a Fairy-wren! The bluecap, nape and lower cheeks, white face and dark eye made for a stunning contrast and the white tipped continually flicked tail! Wow.! We were impressed!

Happy now we dashed back to CH and as I changed and finished packing stuff into my bag, then into the car, Stuart made one last foray for Cassowary – he was really, really keen to see, as he put it, “a bird I have to run away from” - on the road outside. Finally he too threw his bag into the boot, we said goodbye to Sue and tore off at 14.55.

Down the range and out onto the main road to Cairns and it was only 15.15 as we approached the Yorkey’s Knob turnoff. Ah, what the hell, I swung hard left at the roundabout and booted it down through the cane fields and slid to a stop at the golf club pond – one single duck in the middle – and it was, Yes, a female GREEN PYGMY GOOSE (S) – last tick for the trip!! I gave Stuart a couple of minutes to enjoy, then back onto the road again and into the first service station to top up the petrol tank. We arrived in the check in desk at 15.55 (exactly 30 mins before our flight) and it was boarding already. It was bucketing rain again and so I left Stuart and dashed down to the Hertz desk. One operator and she was busy. I waited a couple of minutes, then interrupted and asked what she needed as there had been no one in the car park to check the car back in. She wanted the key (which I had for some inexplicable reason left on the front seat) and the mileage. Out again into the teeming rain, key grabbed and odometer read and I was heading back when I noticed another Hertz employee heading back into the terminal. I asked for her help and she very kindly took the key and the mileage and left me to my own devices – Hurrah for Hertz!

I met Stuart in the boarding queue and we boarded on time and then sat and waited for another 10 minutes while everyone else settled in – what a waste – we might have had time to check the esplanade……..

Learnings: 

A very successful trip. We didn’t miss a lot of birds – Great-billed Heron possibly due to Daintree river cruise cancellation, Southern Cassowary – unlucky really – the male has returned to the garden at Cassowary House since and we might have chosen to try Longlands gap for the Golden Bowerbird or the Mareeba wetlands fro Black-throated Finch or a known Rufous Owl roost that might have been accessible or …. However Stuart scored 54 new birds and I added 8 to my life list and 2 to my Australian. I think we did OK.

May

Trip Report – Tasmania, Australia

 

May 5^th – 19th 2009.

 

Overview: Two birders based in Brisbane (southern Qld) birding in Tasmania (T) (Stuart Warren and author Colin Reid) – both first time visitors. We started in Hobart and circumnavigated the state anti-clockwise, i.e. Hobart, Bruny Island, Tasman Peninsula, Freycinet, St Helen’s, North coast, Cradle Mountain, West coast, Hobart.

 

Getting there and getting around: We flew with Virgin Blue from Brisbane to Hobart ($89 each way on a midday special, my tickets purchased in July last year, Stuart’s in December) 

(Note: Check out their specials every day on the Virgin Blue website between 12.00 and 1.00 – brilliant concept, excellent value!)

We had hired a car from Hertz – originally a 4 door Toyota Corolla - at $500 for the two weeks, this eventuated into a Nissan X-trail 4WD when I asked for an upgrade! Excellent! The operator was happy to upgrade us given the fact we were there for two weeks – it would appear most Hertz car ‘hirers’ are only in Tasmania for  a few days. 

(Note: It’s always worth asking for an upgrade!)

Driving around T was easy as regards traffic (very little) and road condition (excellent). The towns are relatively close – most trips are less than 200 kms – but the roads are winding, one lane each way, and hilly. They are well marked and, having cut my driving teeth, so to speak, in Ireland, I revelled in the challenge! If you are more used to freeways and 2 lane highways, though, I would suggest allowing more time than you might expect for the distances. 

We also found that to see some places it was necessary to drive on unsealed or dirt roads. These were in very good condition and I had no concerns re safety, however, hire care companies appear to frown on the practice so if you are concerned it may be worthwhile discussing options at the time of hiring the car. Our excess was increased from $1650, on sealed roads, to $2650 on unsealed roads. Some experience is valuable too, as, although the unsealed roads are in good nick, it is ‘different’ driving and some confidence is needed - it will also slow you down somewhat as the posted speed limit on unsealed roads is 80kms/hr. You will miss nothing major by not driving on unsealed roads in T, however, as you will see it has its values too!

Petrol varied in price from $1.14 to $1.41 per litre. Hertz offered us a tank of fuel at $1.03 a litre which we accepted and then aimed to bring the car back empty! We drove 2,714 kms in the two weeks and spent $306 on fuel.

 

Accommodation: We had pre-booked nothing! Everything would be on spec, however we had brought small one man tents with us and intended to camp as much as possible. The weather, unfortunately, turned very damp and windy after a few days and, as a result, we only actually slept under ‘canvas’ 4 nights. We found ‘bunkhouse’ accommodation at caravan parks, backpackers and YHA (Youth Hostel Australia) premises readily available in most places to be more comfortable and warmer. Price varied from $19 a night each (Port Arthur- very good) to $35 a night each (Strahan – poor). Due to the season we only booked ahead once – at Strahan, which was completely unnecessary as it turned out. If visiting during peak months - Summer or Winter - I would suggest booking ahead at the more popular tourist destinations – Port Arthur and Cradle Mountain at least. Autumn and Spring are less busy and you should be OK. There are no shortages of caravan parks with tent sites and in the warmer months camping would probably be my choice again – most camping would probably be $10 - $20 a night for an unpowered site. In both camping and ‘shared’ accommodation one has access to a full kitchen area with, in most case, adequate cooking facilities and in some cases, cutlery and plates etc. Toilets and shower blocks too, of course – although in a couple of cases we had to pay extra for the shower (Adventure Bay, Bruny Island $1 for 5 mins of hot water (mmmmm) Port Arthur 20 cents for 5 mins of hot water – OK!) Accommodation cost us about $520.

 

Communication: It’s probably important to know that mobile phone communication in Tasmania is not great – possibly dependent on your choice of carrier. I knew it wasn’t going to be good, but it turned out to be hopeless! I am with Optus and only had signal in and immediately around Hobart (max maybe 30 kms from the city) and similarly around Launceston in the north. Otherwise we were completely without any personal communication anywhere else. It was suggested that if we were with Telstra it would be better and there were plenty of public phone booths with money (not exclusively Phone card) payments – some in the most remote of areas - so we were able to maintain contact with family and friends.

Logistics: As we had planned to camp, in National Parks as a preference, we had brought a small gas stove that requires self sealing gas canisters, a couple of pots, cups, plates and a small amount of basic cutlery. We only used the stove a couple of times as the caravan parks we stayed at had cooking equip and most of the utensils we required; however at a couple of places we were glad of our personal supplies! 

 

Preparation: We had both prepared wish lists – as you do - for our trip. As neither of us had birded much in the southern states – Victoria or South Australia – and I had limited experience in New South Wales, there was more potential for lifers than might be expected. 

Tasmania has 12 endemics and we had read trip reports and updates obtained from Birding Aus - birding-aus@vicnet.net.au. Close friends had also birded the island state and gave us very helpful information we filed away and repeatedly referred to. We had, of course, pored over the specific species we hoped to encounter and tried to remember the details of plumage, call and preferred habitat.

We used Pizzey and Knight as our reference and also referred to ‘Where to see Birds in Australia’ by John Bransbury which we found helpful in our general meanderings around the island.

We also had a hope list of mammals. Tasmania has the reputation of hosting large numbers of supposedly easily accessible mammal species and we hoped to add to our experiences on our trip.

 

Trip Summary – birds.

 

As this report could be seen as very self indulgent I thought a  brief overview of where we found the endemics and other personal lifers would cut to the chase for some readers – more detail can be found in the body of the text:

Endemics:

Tasmanian Native Hen – generally everywhere! We had them on the coast and in the mountains, more often around any boggy, swampy area, often beside the road, usually in pairs or small groups.

Green Rosella – generally everywhere also. In flocks of up to 15/20 birds, beside the road commonly.

Yellow Wattlebird – several locations, more coastal than mountainous, but that may have had something to do with the weather. The sound of someone getting sick was a regular indication. Never in big numbers – I think 3 was the most we had at one time, usually a pair.

Black-headed Honeyeater – in a number of places – Silver Falls entrance on Mt Wellington Rd, south Bruny Island, Port Arthur, Lake st Clair and Mt Field NP, usually high in the canopy in small flocks of 5 - 10 birds.

Strong-billed Honeyeater – We picked this bird up at Jetty rd, south Bruny Island, Port Arthur and, briefly, at Lake St Clair.

Yellow-throated Honeyeater – relatively common – usually alone or just a pair. The call is quite distinctive and heard in most locations.

40 Spot Pardalote – tried the Peter Murrell reserve of course, just south-west of Hobart. We did see them there but the views were ‘challenging’ to say the least. We got crippling views at Denne’s Point on N Bruny.

Scrubtit – Stuart saw one twice very briefly on our first day at Fern Glade on Mt Wellington, much to my disgust and disappointment. Connected well at Ma Vista Picnic grounds on south Bruny Island and had brilliant views at Nelson Falls.

Dusky Robin – easy peasey at Bruny. We had 6 in a field within 10 minutes of leaving the ferry and continued to see them over the next two days. Only the occasional one after that. 

Tasmanian Thornbill – everywhere there were trees and, in some case, where there weren’t! This was the easiest and commonest endemic. Even on Cradle Mt in howling wind and driving rain!

Tasmanian Scrub-wren – discreet but regular in all overgrown moss covered forests in gullys and hillsides – usually the damper the better. They reacted in the same way as the more familiar, to us, White-throated S-W, to squeaking noises.

Black Currawong – common throughout although not every day. Flocks of up to 40 on the Gordon River and Cradle Mt – more usually in twos and threes. Interestingly we noted that the dark form of Grey Currawong was also present (white undertail coverts) yet not mentioned in any other trip reports. Have they been misidentified as Black Currawongs?

In general we found all the endemics relatively easily – common and widespread in the right habitat -except the Pardalote. In the end we had excellent views of all and came away very satisfied.

 

Other desirable species (A little subjective? Possibly, but for us they were lifers – decide for yourself!)

Crescent Honeyeater – not common, but certainly regular sightings throughout the fortnight - usually a pair, in low brush. Good views were had with patience although their continuous flitting around like overgrown Spinebills made photography challenging! 

Tawny-crowned Honeyeater – only at Cape Bruny on south Bruny island, although we possibly had one at the airfield at Strahan – a brilliant bird and one of my favourites. 

Striated Fieldwren – first encountered at a random stop on the road from Cradle Mt to Strahan at the top of Mt Livingstone (on the road to Granville Harbour before the turnoff to the harbour itself) in heavy wind and sleet. Brilliant views – very exciting - in the heather and on the ground of at least 4 birds. Also seen, but not as well, at the airfield at Strahan.

Beautiful Firetail – the most difficult bird of the trip – I almost retitled this report as ‘2 weeks and 1 Firetail’! Tried everywhere, everyday with no luck until on the (unsealed) Ocean rd at Strahan, while looking at Southern Emu-wrens, one turned up for good views. We specifically looked on Jetty rd, South Bruny as local advice suggested they were there, but had no clear advice on other locations.

Olive Whistler – a bird that had eluded us both in SE Qld, we had our first at Mt Mangana on south Bruny for poor views and then encountered a pair at Lake St Clair at the platypus viewing station for amazingly close (3 meters) views of a very confident pair of birds – brilliant!!

Hooded Plover – this was one I have wanted to see for years – as you do! We had a flock of 20 birds on Cloudy Beach on S Bruny - 50 meter ‘scope views in a howling gale and imminent rain – good, happy with them!

 

The biggest miss out was not getting a pelagic. We had booked on one out of Eaglehawk neck but it had been cancelled months ago and we had been unable to locate another. One of the biggest drawcards in T is the number and variety of seabirds and their availability due to the close continental shelf. We determined to do land based seawatching wherever possible and that proved interestingly positive. We also took a trip on the Tasman Island Cruise and returned the next day for a second go – we would highly recommend the trip even if you do get a pelagic elsewhere. The operators are enthusiastic, passionate and very knowledgeable and their boat handling skills and repartee are worth experiencing! We believe the Bruny Island Cruise, a sister operation, is also worth taking but we have no personal experience. 

We did manage to get some pretty good seabirds with the limited access we had.

 

The Trip

 

One of the commonest birds we saw on our trip, and in numbers we have never before experienced, was Superb Fairy-wren. There were hundreds of them in every type of habitat. Other very common birds included the introduced Common Blackbird, Common Starling and House Sparrow; Masked Plovers, Forest Ravens and Silver Gulls were seen most days. I will not repeat these species in the report – assume they were seen and resulted in the usual follow up in each case to ensure they weren’t something else!!

 

 

Lifer for one or both of us        New Australian bird for one or both of us

 

(S) – Stuart        (C) – Colin         (E) – Endemic

 

5.5.09 We left Brisbane on time (8.35am) and after a satisfying flight arrived in Hobart at 11.25 to bright sunshine and a slight sea breeze. We had our first tick before we even undid our seatbelts! FOREST RAVEN on the runway! We grabbed our bags and headed over to the Car rentals to pick up our pre booked Toyota Corolla from Mr Hertz. I asked the operator was there any chance of an upgrade and he immediately offered us a Nissan X-trail! Wow! Brilliant! With 2 large bags, assorted jackets, ‘scopes, bins, books, water bottles, camping gear etc the extra space would be very welcome and the 4WD option provided a bit of peace of mind if we encountered snow or ice. We eagerly accepted and loaded up, heading out of the small airport towards Hobart itself.  Just down the road a line of trees beside a field and a small flock of Eastern Rosellas lifted into the lower branches. We stopped to confirm and noticed a large number of Galahs on the opposite side of the road – not exceptional, except we wouldn’t see anymore until Launceston and no more after that! A couple of Australian Magpies strutted around the field and we noticed their very white napes and backs – race Hypoleuca. Again not a bird we were to see a lot of over the coming fortnight. 

Heading in to Hobart via the 110km/hr highway we crossed the Tasman bridge and had an awesome sight over the harbour/bay area. Hobart is a small town in reality although the residential area is widespread. Traffic is not really an issue but the one way system around some of the central streets may be confusing. We headed for Mt Wellington and our first ‘site’ Fernglade, Ferntree and Spring Falls. We found the turnoff to Mt Wellington but decided to bird first before sightseeing. Continuing we passed the hotel on the left and a fairly full car park on the right that we suspected was the walk we wanted. Rounding a corner a few hundred meters further on a bird in the middle of the road caused us both to shout ‘SCARLET ROBIN’ and coming to a quick stop we jumped out and started birding. This stop proved fruitful as within a few minutes, as well as a pair of Scarlet Robins, we had Brown Thornbills and Grey Fantails – but, more excitingly, our first of many TASMANIAN THORNBILLS (E). Once correctly identified this bird proved easy to pick in future, despite its close similarity to Brown Thornbill. The fluffy white undertail or vent feathers are obvious and appeared to be flicked continually – especially, we noted, in darker habitats. Possibly a means of maintaining contact as they were rarely found singly – more usually in small numbers of 4 – 6. A slightly larger bird flew across the road and followed by S turned out to be our first YELLOW-THROATED HONEYEATER (E) – only a fleeting glimpse but enough for confidence. As we returned to the car, keeping a cautious eye out on the surrounding area, a call attracted out attention and a flock of Currawongs appeared flying high across the road. At first we assumed they were Black Cs however on closer inspection we observed they had white undertail coverts, but were, in fact, black in colour! We decided they were the dark form of the GREY CURRAWONG (S). (Race Melanoptera)

We were keen to find Silver Falls and I approached a car to ask the driver for help. He didn’t hear me coming and nearly jumped out of his skin when I spoke – it helped break the ice, but didn’t help us find our destination. So, turning the car we headed back down the road to squeeze a parking spot at the start of the Ferndale walk.

This track takes one up through a densely forested gully alongside an apparently dry but very damp creek bed. Walking quietly along we started to find the odd bird here and there among the trees. Grey Shrike Thrush caused a bit of interest as we ensured it was not anything more exciting - then a small dark bird appeared darting between the branches and roots and eventually a pair of TASMANIAN SCRUB-WRENS (E) gave themselves up. We moved on up the track and another pair of Scrub-wrens made themselves known – as we watched we moved separate ways along the track and as a result I missed our first sighting of SCRUBTIT (E)! How frustrating!! To say I was disappointed would be a dramatic understatement. I have seen other trip reports where this has occurred and often wondered how? Now I know and it is so …… my words are not printable. And it happened TWICE!! TWICE – you can imagine my mood the second time!! Sucking it up after a further 20 minutes of watching an empty area of forest we walked on to emerge on a wider track that curved back down the hill side.

 We followed this down, Stuart was very quiet as we walked – probably questioning his decision to travel with me for two weeks…..

Then a flick and we had our first PINK ROBIN – a male glowing like a jewel in the dank forest.

We continued on to the road and found we had exited at the entrance to Silver Falls on the Mt Wellington road. A flock of birds high in a towering eucalypt caught our attention and we excitedly found they were BLACK-HEADED HONEYEATERS (E). As we watched these, another honeyeater type bird flew in and we ticked our first CRESCENT HONEYEATER (E) – a female, followed by fleeting glimpses of a male in a nearby bush.

I mean how good is that ?  8 lifers (6 for me) within 90 minutes of arriving? 

 We walked back to the car – a surprisingly longer distance than at first thought - and headed up the mountain. It ‘s a steep and twisting track to the top and the habitat changes quite dramatically ending in bare rock for the most part. Half way up and S called a “STOP”, we disembarked, partially blocking the road and probably imperilling our own safety, to see the first of many and our 10^th collective lifer for the day – 2 GREEN ROSELLAS(E). A honeyeater flew past and this time was a New Holland Honeyeater – probably the commonest HE in Tasmania followed shortly by the first of many Eastern Spinebill. We watched the Rosellas for a few minutes feeding quietly on low shrubs some meters below us on the hillside and I managed a couple of poor photos, then returned to our vehicle and continued to the top.

We had flown from Brisbane in long bush pants (lots of pockets) and long sleeved shirts and had donned our Colombia (in my case) and Gortex (for Stuart) jackets somewhere along the way. When we exited the car we were rudely reminded that this was no longer sunny Queensland! A bitter, biting gale slammed into us and we hurriedly searched our bags for thermal underwear, pullovers, beanies and gloves and donned them as quick as we could – well not the lower part of the underwear, but the upper part was a necessity! It was freezing! There were patches of snow among the rocks and the wind was a killer.  We basically ran around from look out to look out taking pictures of the scenery and each other and then returned hurriedly to the warmth and cover of the car.

(Note: I was initially worried as I had been unable to lock the car with the remote and had used the key. It turned out that the radio tower on the mountain interferes with electronic communication and so had affected the remote – it worked perfectly afterwards but just be aware – you may think you’ve locked the car but you haven’t!)

We drove back down the hill and into Hobart again, searching for a supermarket. We stopped and asked a ‘local’ who was Scottish (go figure, once there was an Irishman, an Englishman and a female Scot…). She wasna sure but the closest Woolworths was a long way away – anyway she gave us directions of a sort and we headed off to eventually discover the supermarket and complete our purchases. It was now after 5.30 and darkness had settled. We returned to Hobart and the waterfront, parked and had a dinner of (average) fish ‘n’ chips at the Elizabeth Street Pier for $20. 

Leaving Hobart we headed southwest in the general direction of Kettering – the ferry terminal for Bruny Island. Having no place booked for the night we tried a couple of small seaside type towns for camping facilities – and eventually found one at Snug. ($10 per night each). We set up our tents and sat and drank coffee/tea watching TV in the communal kitchen/dining room while completing our daily log and bird list. This was to become a ritual each evening, as, I suspect, most birders do when involved in such a trip. 

6.5.09 Up at 7.15 – it wasn’t light till then! We had a quick look around the camp site. The bay was at our doorstep – a lovely view across the water to the sun rising behind the distant hills – it’s a very nice campsite, but they are a bit short on kitchen cooking utensils. The toilets and showers were very clean and tidy though. We had porridge for breakfast – my suggestion that we repeated each morning  - and at some stage during this period a large bird emitting a strange call turned out to be our first YELLOW WATTLEBIRD (E). What an amazing honeyeater! We were astonished at its large size and those wattles! Wow! What a hassle to have them swinging in your face all the time! 

We had a short walk on the narrow beach and in the distance a KELP GULL (S) stood out among the Silver Gulls. 

We headed back towards Hobart to find the famous Peter Murrell Reserve – it took us a while, but we did locate it after a couple of false starts.

(Note: Coming out of Hobart take the first turn left after the Australian Antarctic Headquarters, Huntingdon Rd, and go about 500 meters. The track down to the reserve is on the right hand side of the Vodaphone Call Centre)

We found pardalotes in the eucalypts on the far side of the first (there are two) pond. High in the canopy it took some time for us to feel confident we were seeing 40 SPOT PARDALOTES (E) as well as Spotted and Striated. We wandered around the reserve seeing a pair of BLACK CURRAWONGS (E), 1 Eastern Rosella, a couple of Yellow Wattlebirds, Yellow-throated Honeyeaters and Chestnut Teal. As we came around the left end of the pond I noticed a movement in the field opposite and there were 6 TASMANIAN NATIVE HENS (E) striding through the rank grass towards the water. They picked up a surprising speed as we approached looking almost like some strange long-legged game birds! Back at the hide two were swimming in the pond and allowed close approach. We met a local birder who pointed us in the direction of the second pond – continue past the end of the first one keeping it to your left - and we wandered down there to look for more pardalotes – without success. We did however have a Platypus swimming in the second pond. 

As the wind picked up we decided to give it away and drove to a nearby Mitre 10 store to purchase gas cylinders to go with the small stove I had brought with me. Then to Big W to get a couple of cheap cushions to act as pillows, then, finally, off to Kettering and the Bruny Island ferry. A much quicker journey than we expected but we had a 45 minute wait for the next boat. 

(Note: $25 return, the ferry goes every hour or thereabouts from 8.00am to late afternoon, it’s only a 15 minute crossing and the only ferry I believe that one can legally take a hired car on. Get in Lane 1 to be the first on the ferry! We got in Lane 3 and although we were the second car waiting, we were the last car to board and the second last to exit!)

While we waited for the ferry we had an adult HOARY-HEADED GREBE (S) beside the dock – crippling views – and while we had coffee in the ferry terminal BLACK-FACED CORMORANTS preened and dried themselves within easy camera range.

Unexciting crossing, although we scanned the water and watched intently the only bird worthy of notice was a poorly seen PACIFIC GULL (S) as we docked. 

Up the road a few kilometres later and we pulled over to scan a marsh pond in a field to our left. Yellow-rumped Thornbills attracted our attention initially, but we were more interested in the 4 DUSKY ROBINS (E) hoping around the dead wood and low plants in the field. Just a few meters further down the road and a pair of Scarlet Robins caused another stop – the result was at least 4 males and up to 6 female Robins and a flock of about 10 Goldfinches in the immediate area! We headed for Denne’s Point, the most northerly point of North Bruny Island – more Dusky andScarlet Robins, Native Hens, Green Rosellas and, at one random stop on an unsealed section of road, Crescent, Yellow-throated, Black-headed and New Holland Honeyeaters. We drove around Denne’s Pt and took the road back towards Killora and stopped to look over the beach. As we did so, S spotted some Pardalotes and within a few minutes we had absolutely stunning views of a 40 Spot Pardalote at less than 5 meters range in a bush at waist level – brilliant!! Further along we found 6 Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos feeding in some conifers, a White-bellied Sea Eagle crossed the road in front of us and a Wedge-tailed Eagle circled above (a significant sub-species here in T).

Bruny Island is two islands – north and south – joined by a narrow neck of land comprising sand dunes and, more importantly to us, a Little Penguin and Short-tailed Shearwater colony. The latter had all left for the winter, but we hoped for some Penguins still to be present – we stopped to investigate, but the colony was empty, however the presence of little webbed footprints gave us real hope. We had a couple of Australian Gannetsoff shore and Sooty Oystercatchers and Pacific Gulls, in various plumages, on the beach.

Continuing on we established camp at the Captain James Cook Memorial Caravan Park at Adventure Bay. ($18 for the two of us, but $1 for 5 mins of hot water in the shower and very limited utensils in the cold, corrugated iron community kitchen.) There was a TV which was some compensation! 

We had dinner and then headed back to the ‘Neck’ arriving around 20.00. We climbed the track and found several Little Penguins standing around their burrows in the sand dunes. We waited on the main beach but after 30 minutes decided we had missed the main arrival and returned to our camp. On the way we rounded a corner heading towards Adventure Bay and in the headlights ahead a cat like animal stood in the middle of the road – excitement! An EASTERN SPOTTED QUOLL! Wow! We had only a quick view as it ran off the road and disappeared into the bush.

7.5.09 It rained during the night but we emerged to a bright sunny, if slightly damp and windy morning. Wandering the camp site prior to breakfast we had Little Pied and Great Cormorants off shore, Crested Terns, Pacific and Kelp Gulls, Pied Oystercatchers and Masked Plovers on or over the beach. New Holland Honeyeaters and yet another Scarlet Robin in the camp ground itself. We drove up to Ma Vista Nature Walk(unsealed access road) and within a few minutes in the very damp, mossy, overgrown forest we had very acceptable views of SCRUBTIT (Thank God!), T Scrub-wrens, T Thornbills and a stunning Pink Robin male. A Bassian Thrush also flew off the road and another was seen briefly on the track. Despite trying hard we could not find Olive Whistler, although we were confident we did have one calling, but distantly. We continued on the road to Mt Mangana and set off in very wet, windy conditions to climb the rough, boulder strewn track to the top. At one point S dropped behind and I returned down the track fearing the worst – all was OK, he had just found a couple of Scrub-wrens but as we watched another bird flew in and we realised we had found another of our target birds – OLIVE WHISTLER (E). Quick, flitting views in the low canopy were all we had, but in the conditions were all we could expect. We struggled on to the top to find the view completely invisible – mist and stinging rain encouraged our retreat!

A quick resuscitating chocolate break and we were off to Cloudy Bay. Somewhere along the road we had a Brown Falcon perched in a nearby tree. A dead dolphin and a red algae stained sea greeted us. We stayed in the car to avoid the smell and the squally rain and then when it cleared – the rain that is – we headed off east around the headland and across a tide swept beach and over the wet slippery rocks and up, up a steep grassy promontory to – a further climb and walk we decided to forgo and so, back down the slippery slope, rocks, watery beach and wind swept headland and a cheese sandwich and …. What was that down the beach? ‘Scope please. They look like… they are … HOODED PLOVERS (C)! Let’s go! A flock of 20 birds, 18 adults, 2 immatures and 2 Double-banded Plover alongside. Hooded Plover - a bird I have wanted for a long, long time and just as I imagined they would be! ‘Scope views at 50 meters had to be sufficient and it was. We headed rapidly back to the car chased, once again, by driving rain. (We also had a flock of approx 20 GREENFINCHES at the back of the beach – a new addition to both our Australian lists.)

Although late in the afternoon we headed out (on unsealed road for the most part) to Cape Bruny via Lunawanna getting there at 15.45 – the lighthouse car park closes at 16.30 incidentally, but its only a short walk from the gate to the car park. As I parked, a mouse-like bird? mammal? ran across a track in the heathery bush in front of the car.  It quickly became evident it had been a TAWNY-CROWNED HONEYEATER and what a great bird! We had terrific views of the species immediately around the car park before heading up the track to the lighthouse itself and a view of the ocean. We saw a few Australian Gannets and a couple of ‘Alberts’ (Albatrosses) but they were too distant to identify. The Cape is very high above the ocean surface and the lighthouse some distance back on the highest point – not the best place or situation for a seawatch compounded by the island closely placed in front of the headland it puts the birds very far away.

S chatted to the lighthouse keeper as he shut the gate and we drove down to Jetty rd (the only turnoff about 500m – 1km from the gate) on his suggestion of the possibility of Firetail on the first half of that track. We drove slowly down to the campsite at the end of the track, but saw nothing exceptional. The bay at the end was still as a mirror and it would make a lovely place to stay. There were a pair of Hooded Plovers further along the beach and a couple of Pacific Gulls hung around. 

As darkness fell we headed back to camp via Lunawanna again and found the general store still open. Needing a few basic supplies we dropped in and spent some time chatting to the very friendly and enthusiastic lady behind the counter – there is also a real coffee machine here incidentally! 

We wanted to try again for the Penguins so ensured we were at the neck by 19.00 – an hour earlier than last night. Alone on the beach under the almost full moon it was a great way to see two groups of birds (3 and 4) shake themselves free of the surf and waddle up the beach and into the sand dunes. There was a continuous braying sound all around the colony as the 15 or so individuals stood around apparently communicating their thoughts and feelings!

Heading back to Adventure bay for a late dinner we again encountered a Spotted Quoll on the road – at almost the same place as the previous night! BENNET’S WALLABYS  stood around in the local front gardens and a few very dark Brush-tailed Possums were also seen on the road. 

Watched TV for a while we ate dinner (pasta) and crashed around 22.30.

8.5.09 Headed straight for Jetty rd again at Cape Byron – the possibility of Firetail too much to resist. 

On the unsealed road not far before the turnoff we spotted a dead, squashed, bird form in the road and stopped to examine it – it was a bit of a mess but we agreed it was an Olive Whistler – a little unusual for a Whistler to be out on the moorland-type habitat, but it appears Olive W’s are regularly seen in this type of environment.

We parked in a clearing at the top of the road and walked down the sandy track. Almost immediately we had a flock of STRONG-BILLED HONEYEATERS (E) feeding in the trees above us – excellent views as they hung upside down at times stripping bark in their search for food. Other birds seen in our 1 km walk – Yellow-throated, New Holland and Black-headed Honeyeaters, Eastern Spinebills, Grey Shrike-thrush, Golden Whistlers, Brown Thornbills, a pair of Scarlet Robins and Green Rosellas, but, alas, no Firetail. We drove the rest of the track again to the beach – the Plovers were not present, but we did have good views of a pair of Crescent Honeyeaters and a White-faced Heron and a pair ofPied Oystercatchers graced the beach while Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos called higher on the ridgeline.

We headed up to Cape Byron lighthouse again but the Tawny-crowned Honeyeaters of yesterday were more difficult to find. We did, however, much to my delight find 3 female WHITE-FRONTED CHATS (C) in the lighthouse garden! This was another bird I had long wanted to connect with and it didn’t disappoint even though there were no males present. We walked up to the lighthouse again – with the same outcome as yesterday, although the wind had dropped somewhat. We did have a female Crescent Honeyeater, a Dusky Robin, New Holland Honeyeaters and 2Scarlet Robins in the area.

By now it was 10.25 and the next ferry was leaving north Bruny Island at 11.35. We had 70 odd kilometres to drive to catch it, or we’d be waiting until after 13.00 for the next one…

We made it with 5 minutes to spare - but it was an ‘interesting’ drive. 

Heading back again towards Hobart we stopped to get a groundsheet for S from the Mitre 10 store and food and fuel from Woolworths in Margate, then on through Hobart and out the east side to arrive at Port Arthur on the Tasman peninsula at 15.30. (As we drove into Dunalley a small flock of green lorikeets flew fast overhead. We tried to stop, but it was a difficult stretch of road and they were gone very quickly).

At PA we immediately booked into the Tasman Island Cruise for a trip the next day at 9.15 ($100 each) and then retired for coffee at the gourmet café opposite the booking office – highly recommended! As we sat there a Grey Goshawk (white phase as all Tasmanian GG’s are) flew in and landed briefly on a nearby tree. 

We had a quick drive around to get the lay of the land – there’s not really very much apart from the convict settlement/exhibit which requires payment – we made enquiries – and so we shortly headed to the Port Arthur Caravan Park and booked into very a comfortable bunkhouse at $19 each per night. The girl who served us was very knowledgeable re wildlife and very helpful. She had occasionally seen Firetails in the driveway to the park… we walked down there immediately but no results. We did have Green Rosellas, New Holland, Black-headed, Strong-billed andYellow-throated Honeyeaters, Eastern Spinebills, Scarlet Robins, Black Currawongs and T Thornbills. As dusk fell Bandicoots and POTOROOS ran riot in the campground.

We had showers (20 cents for 5 minutes hot water) and dinner (chilli) and then went for a drive in the dark towards Nubeena. We ended up driving the complete circuit and saw our first COMMON WOMBAT beside the road, not far from PA.

9.5.09 It rained through the night and was still falling when we arrived at the booking office at 9.15. (Little Wattlebird at the camp site before we left) We met the deckie for the trip, Ben, an enthusiastic participant who listened to our birding enquiries and provided lots of information regarding the possibilities. Once all the voyagers were present and we were dressed in our bright red overall type ‘dry’ suits we boarded the bus and were driven to the harbour at Pirates Bay. We boarded the boat and Mike the skipper took charge heading us out to sea. It was a wet and windy trip for 3 hours along the coastline, into sea caves, around cliff faces and eventually arriving at the beach near Port Arthur where we returned to the bus for the short journey back to the booking office. The boat can take 43 passengers – there were only 9 on this trip. We saw a number of SHY ALBATROSS (one particularly well as it sat on the surface and allowed close approach), a larger number of BULLER’S ALBATROSS and a smaller number of YELLOW-NOSED ALABTROSS at close quarters and were geologically and biologically educated along the way! This boat trip is well worth taking even if you have organised a pelagic. We also had White-bellied Sea Eagle, Pacific Gulls and Black-faced Cormorants. 

We had a coffee in the, relatively for us, up market Stewart’s hotel and then into the penal colony for the afternoon. ($28 bronze pass includes a harbour boat trip and a short guided tour and you can use it over a two day period) Most interesting birds in the colony were 1 Dusky Robin, 3Scarlet Robins and large numbers of Green Rosellas. We stayed until the exhibit closed and then headed back to camp to check for Firetails again – none - and dinner before doing another slow drive in the dark. Once again we had 1 Common Wombat on the road.

10.5.09 Waking to a brighter, calmer, sunnier morning we decided we would go on the boat trip again so planned to arrive at the office at 9.15. Before we did we drove further down the road towards Nubeena and turned off on Safety Cove Rd which leads to Carnarvon bay. Ina  long short grassed fron yard on the right hand side about 100 meters from the main road there were a number of birds. Scanning S called ‘FLAME ROBIN’(S) and to our surprise there were a total of 11 birds scattered across the lawn! Intermixed with Starlings and Blackbirds there were 5 males and 6 female Flame Robins. It was very satisfying to see this bird at last.  We drove right out to the golf course at the end of the road but nothing else of interest showed itself.

Twenty two people on board this time and we went the ‘other’ way around – i.e. from Port Arthur to Pirates Bay. Ben told us they had had a whale and, more frustratingly, 2 Giant petrels the previous afternoon. ‘I was thinking about you guys’ he said, which didn’t help us much!

The sea was much friendlier this morning but still wild enough at times to be daunting! Shy, Buller’s and Yellow-nosed Albatrosses in much the same numbers as yesterday and a flock of Australian Gannets lifted off the water at one point. A large dark bird heading south was quickly identified as a NORTHERN GIANT PETREL (S) (C) and we had another 2 in similar circumstances before the boat trip ended. All were moving very quickly and despite Mike’s best efforts there was no way we could catch the birds as they banked between the waves and casually, almost, disappeared over the horizon.

Thanks to the relatively calm weather and to help satisfy our desire for birds Mike took the boat out to the Hippolyte Rocks about 3 kms off shore. Here we saw NZ FUR SEALS and a Humpback Whale surfaced nearby a few times much to the delight of the punters. We also saw a probable Short-tailed Shearwater, but it was gone very quickly between the swells and no definite identification was achieved.

Back on land at Pirates Bay and a 85 kg Blue-fin Tuna was displayed on the wharf. A Shy Albatross was circling very close to the shoreline just off the blow hole and as we were driven back to the office we anticipated a good seawatch from that area later in the day. As we went I was gazing out the window and there on a patch of grass beside the road – a pair of CAPE BARREN GEESE! We changed out of our suits and I dropped S down to the penal settlement for a second go at the place. I was less interested in old history and more interested in seeing a Firetail so I drove down the road and took the second turn off to the left after the PA turnoff. I drove about 10 kms at about 10 kms/hour but saw nothing different or unusual so returned to pick S up and headed towards Pirate Bay. On the way S spotted the geese in a field on the opposite side of the road and we stopped to see them properly. Although we did expect more further north these would be the only CBG we would see on the trip.

We placed ourselves at the top of the path above the blow hole for the sea watch and we did see Alberts – but they were a long way out to sea and, although I spotted a probable Northern Giant Petrel, S could not get on to it in time – it too was a long way off. In rough weather, though, this would make a very good seawatch spot – and is probably worth a visit anyway as they sometimes come in very close to the shore. Several Crested Terns and Aust Gannets passed by as we watched until the sun had almost set.

We headed off at 17.00 and drove north taking an unsealed turnoff before Sorrel at Copping we ‘cut the corner’ and arrived at Coles Bay on the Freycinet Peninsula at 19.30 – very little traffic made the journey easy and quick. We booked into the Coles bay Iluka Caravan Park in YHA accommodation – basically bunkhouse with, again, a room to ourselves at $28 a night each. The owner was very informative regarding walks and where to see ‘birds’ in the area. 

11.5.09 Up at 6.30 and we drove out to Cape Tourville looking forward to a decent sea watch. The Cape is very high and once again, there are islands off the coast – The Nuggets. Once again there were lots of Alberts – once again, most were very distant and, once again, in bad or rough weather….. but the sun was beating down (for Tasmania!) the sea was calm, the sky clear, the breeze mellow. 

We decided to climb Mt Amos for the promised views of the area – it’s not an easy climb – one needs good boots or strong joggers. It is not a walk to take the kids or the oldies on! There are sections of exposed granite boulder and steep cliff-like spots that require confidence and some scrambling skills but it is worth it. The views of Wineglass Bay and the bays on the other side of the peninsula are excellent. We had a brilliant day for it, clear and warm and spent a half an hour or so on top taking photos.

As we came back down I was leading and as we approached a section of bush a small dark bird with a bright red rump lifted off a wet soak and disappeared into a bush. It had to be a Firetail but despite our urgent looking and pishing for some time it did not reappear. We did see plenty of T Thornbills and Yellow-throated and Crescent Honeyeaters. 

We packed up, paid our bill and drove to the Freycinet Lodge for coffee and muffins before heading off north again. We stopped a couple of times along the way at likely spots or for a ‘what was that’? We had a couple of Brown Falcons beside the road and at Scamander approx 15 Red-capped and 10 Double-banded Plovers on the sandbar at the river mouth. No sign of the hoped for small terns…..

Arriving at St Helen’s, our destination for the night, we had an hour or so of daylight left so drove out the south side of the river to the boat ramp at the very end. It’s a much longer drive than we first thought but we could see Alberts not very far off shore from the ramp and grabbing the ‘scopes we dashed up the track at the end of the car park and eventually found our way out onto the rocks. We didn’t have much light left, but could see at least one of the wheeling birds was a BLACK-BROWED ALBATROSS (S) (C). 

Promising ourselves we would return for a seawatch at first light we purchased some supplies in town and then booked into the backpackers for $55 for a room. This was to be the most disappointing stay of our trip – while the accommodation was average and the facilities adequate the manner of the (ex-pom) manager was to be regretted. The lights in the lounge were so dim I had to use my head torch to read. There was an unlit space heater log fire – and it was quite cold – which we were instructed not to touch. Some Asian students were advised, quite demeaningly, that ‘this was Australia you know and taps should be turned off, water is precious’ – which is all fairly valid except the tap washer needed replacing. He also insisted that we did not use our sleeping bags – we must use his linen because of the ‘bed bug problem all over the country’ – news to us. Anyway we were only there for one night but will not be returning in any hurry, so we used the can opener that was chained to the kitchen wall and had dinner before retiring for an early night and an early start.

12.5.09 Up at 5.30 and out to the southern headland before dawn. We sat in the car until there was light enough to see then made our way out to the rocks again. Good seawatching spot – low enough to limit our horizon reasonably, yet high enough to give us a good view of passing birds. Immediately a Black-browed Albatross showed itself and soon after a Shy Alb also put in an appearance. The former sat on the water approx 200 meters away and provided excellent ‘scope views. We also had Sooty Oystercatchers and a White-bellied Sea Eagle, Pacific Gulls, Black-faced Cormorants and Aust Gannets We stayed until 8.00 the headed back to the backpackers to have breakfast (the kitchen was locked until 7.30?). 

We headed north and were soon on unsealed roads as we went for Eddystone Pt in Mt William National Park. Arriving at the lighthouse we parked up and walked down to the rocky point. Setting up we soon had Black-browed and Shy Albs again, not very close but identifiable views certainly. The sea was quite calm – almost oily and most of the birds were just sitting around. Once again a potentially good seawatching point – easy access, low rocks, good horizon – and a large bay (Bay of Fires) to the south which would encourage birds to swing in in rough weather.

We stayed until 11.15 and then moved a few meters back into the brush to look for field and/or emu wrens – the habitat looks good there for these species.  We weren’t successful but as we watched Thornbills and Silvereyes S glanced back towards the sea and excitedly called ‘large brown seabird coming in’ – we scrambled to get it in the bins and saw a Pacific-gull sized brown petrel with a distinctly pale bill flying leisurely past about 50 meters off the rocks! WHITE-CHINNED PETREL! We dashed back to our seawatch site and looked everywhere but it had disappeared into the bay. Setting up we waited another hour with fading hopes, but lots of enthusiasm, for no further results, so we left and with many a backward glance (!) headed back to the car and north towards our next planned stop – George Town on the north coast. On the way we disturbed our first Tasmanian Swamp Harrier feeding on road kill and shortly afterwards came to an abrupt halt when S spied a pair of AUSTRALIAN SHELDUCK (S) in a nearby field. We also saw Grey Butcherbird and another Brown Falcon on this leg and had our first Welcome Swallow in Tasmania at George Town.

I had hoped to snorkel at a seal colony from this location ($120 per person) but the weather put it out of the question – a strong westerly wind chopped the sea and river mouth. We found a camp site ($20 per night per site – we only used one) semi-sheltered by a fence and did our laundry in the caravan park laundry. On returning to my tent I discovered a pool of liquid inside my open flyscreen door and found my tent had been visited by a local cat in my absence. An unpleasant thing to find, let me tell you! I cleaned it up as best I could – luckily it had not targeted my sleeping bag – and after dinner we found a bar in the Comfort Inn and spent the evening drinking coffee and watching bad TV. It was a cold night with spitting rain at times and the wind made sleep difficult.  

13.5.09 We were glad to put George Town behind us as we drove alongside the Tamar River to Launceston, turning back down the east side of the river we began looking for Trevallyn Reserve as we had read that Firetails had been seen there by others in January. We were misdirected by a local resident and ended up at Cataract Gorge for an hour or so. Eventually on to Trevallyn and a scouring by car of the three parts of the reserve – Yellow-rumped Thornbills, Scarlet & Dusky Robins, T Scrub-wrens a plenty but no Firetails. Also Grey Butcherbird and Currawong. 

As we returned onto south Tamar rd I spotted a Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike on the overhead wires, the first, again, in T. Just as the lights turned green and I turned into the main road S shouted ‘green parrots’ and a flock of small lorikeets shot over the car swooped down and appeared to land in trees on the other side of the split 4 lane road. I managed an illegal U-turn at the next set of lights and returning to the spot we bailed from the car grabbing bins and looking frantically in the nearby trees. It was a golf course and an inaccessible area from where we stood – there were groups of large trees here and there and, although we could hear them, we couldn’t see the lorikeets except for an occasional burst as they moved from tree to tree or went back overhead into the residential area on the other side of the road. We were pretty sure they were Musk Lorikeets but it would be a new bird for both of us and we wanted to be 100% confident, besides which we wanted a good view of them! One bird did give us great views and much to our surprise turned out to be a Rainbow Lorikeet! A vagrant or an escape?

After a half an hour or so we decided to call it quits and turned again at the set of lights to head down river – we had driven a hundred meters or so when yet another, larger flock of green birds screamed overhead and landed in a garden beside the road! Jamming on the brakes, again we bailed and this time were successful in gaining exceptional views of a flock of MUSK LORIKEETS feeding on apples in someone’s backyard. We met a couple gardening who allowed us to use their yard to gain best access – they were originally from Queensland – go figure! We scoped the birds as they described them as ‘green rats’. The flock moved on after a while and so did we – to Tamar Wetlands.

We met one of the volunteers at the front door and chatted for a few minutes. After making our ‘donation’ we walked on down the boardwalk and round to the first hide. There was not a lot to see from her so we moved on until we reached a bridge over a channel and setting up the scopes, scanned the massed wildfowl. There were dozens of Australian Shelduck, Chestnut and Grey Teal and Masked Plovers. The most dominant bird was the Black Swan – maybe 1000 birds? 4 Great Egrets were our first in T, 3 White-faced Herons and Little Black Cormorants flew past and we had distant views of a White-bellied Sea Eagle while S saw a Swamp Harrier briefly. We also had Black-fronted Dotterels and 1 Grebe we believed to be an Australian Grebe. The wetlands are quite extensive and we didn’t really have the time to explore more fully so we returned to the car and headed towards Cradle Mt. 

The road out of Launceston west is a major highway and we sat on 110 kms/hr until we turned off for Sheffield, We stopped there for a good meat pie and an excellent cream bun at Lara’s bakery in the main street and spent a few minutes poking around the ‘antique’ store opposite. As we left Sheffield 2 Wedge-tailed Eagles soared overhead. 

Heading towards Cradle Mt the road began to climb, the vegetation changed and the weather descended. By the time we reached the Discovery caravan and camp site it was windy, raining and cold. We checked into the ‘bunkhouse’ accommodation ($30 per night each) and found to our delight a heater already on in the four bed cabin. The kitchen and bathroom facilities were very close, the only issue was parking was a bit limited. We dropped some stuff off in our cabin to ‘claim’ our beds and headed on up the road to the visitor’s centre – it was closed so we drove on up to Dove Lake (7.5 kms) for a quick look. The rain was horizontal and stayed that way for the time we were in Cradle Mt. We never did get to see Cradle Mt itself – it was completely blocked out in the mist and drizzle.

We returned to the kitchen and had soup and toast as it seemed very appropriate in the weather, then well after dark, drove slowly back down the road towards Strahan looking for wildlife. We were in luck – despite the wind and rain we saw 3 Common Wombats, 1 Spotted Quoll and best of all a TASMANIAN DEVIL!  Just outside the kitchen on our return a couple of Brush-tailed Possums were begging for food much to the entertainment of the foreign backpackers.

14.5.09 Wild, wild weather overnight – howling (literally) wind and driving rain and it continued the next morning so we didn’t rush out! Eventually we decided that we had to have a walk so putting on everything waterproof we drove to Dove Lake again and hiked up the trail to Marion’s Lookout. It took us about 2 hours to negotiate and was worth it to see the habitat and experience the mountain in probably some of the worst conditions, and certainly the wettest conditions, we could have. Despite our precautions we were pretty damp throughout when we returned so decided to stop at Rooney’s Creek car park and take a walk on the boardwalk alongside the raging creek. Quite spectacular views and we had T Thornbills, a pair of Pink Robins and a couple of Yellow-throated Honeyeaters. That took us about an hour and then we went up the side road to Waldheim and Weindorfers cabin and had a 15 minute walk in the forest there. No birds but as we exited we found a Wombat feeding in the field beside the road. We were able to approach quite closely and I got some photos and video of the occasion.

We went to the Cradle Mt Lodge tavern for coffee around a lovely log fire and dried off. Then back to the communal kitchen for dinner and again out on the road after dark. We had another Quoll and a Wombat inside the park and 2 Wombats on the main road – no Devil this time. 

15.5.09 The wind had eased a little overnight but the rain continued in its persistence. I didn’t feel like getting wet again but S wanted another walk on the boardwalk so I left him to it and spent the time taking photos, wandering through the visitor centre and trying to make a booking for our next night’s stay. (We did, surprisingly, have a flock of about 10 Sulphur-crested Cockatoos in the trees as we drove up to Rooney’s creek for the drop off.) After another couple of coffees at the very pleasant tavern in the chalet we headed left Cradle Mt and headed west. 

We decided we would go to Granville harbour on the west coast on our way to Strahan and so turned of the main road near Macintosh Dam. This road was virtually empty – I think we saw one car before Granville Harbour – and it was a pleasant drive as the weather continued to brighten. Coming over Mt Livingstone we thought the habitat looked good so pulled in at the ‘viewing spot’ at the top. Disembarking into the gusting wind, we immediately heard birds calling and within 2 or 3 minutes had excellent views of STRIATED FIELDWREN! There were about 4 birds present immediately in front of the ‘lookout’ and on the other side of the road. We flushed what we believe was a Ground Parrot too, it took off and blew away very quickly in the wind. Within 10 minutes or so it began to rain again and it was rain turning to sleet so the birds vanished and so did we – continuing on to Reese Dam which was quite spectacularly overflowing. 2 Wedge-tailed Eagles glided casually by overhead. 

On to 8 kms each way of unsealed road – and this was a bit rough – to Granville Harbour and wild, wild seas! The ‘harbour’ was, in reality, a rock strewn bay partially protected by low rocky headlands and backed by what appeared to be fisherman’s cabins and not much else. The waves were monstrous at the mouth of the bay and the kelp piled high on the shore had attracted a multitude of birds – 100+ Forest Ravens, 100+ Welcome Swallows, 50+ Black Ducks, 50+ Chestnut Teal, 20+ White-faced Herons, Pacific Gulls and flocks of Starlings all, I presume, feeding off the insects on the exposed weed on the rocks. We drove around to the northern headland as it seemed to have the best track and tried to do a seawatch, however, in avoiding the wind and rain we were too low to get over the wave tops and the ‘alberts’  - and there were a few out there – disappeared inside the troughs. We tried for a while but it was relatively useless and incoming rain squalls caused a retreat. I noticed a movement on one patch of rock and ….. we had 5 White-fronted Chats, 2 males and 3 females, in good clear view, seeking protection from the wind. It’s a place I would love to go back to, find a protected corner somewhere and watch the sea – I reckon Granville harbour has real potential in terms of land-based seawatching.

We arrived in Strahan at 17.30 – had expected to be there earlier but had had to detour eventually from Zeehan to Queenstown due to flooding. Found the caravan park and our pre booked accommodation – there was no need as there was virtually no one else there anyway. The most expensive at $35 a night each and one of the poorest in quality. We had a small bedroom with 2 single beds and a blow heater, the beds too short for S to stretch out. The kitchen was large and cold, the heaters on the walls didn’t seem to do much so we lit several of the gas rings on the stove top. The worst aspect was the exposed walk to the shower/toilet block with a door that one struggled to close - in the middle of the night with the weather we were experiencing it was pretty awful. We had dinner and chatted with a group of backpackers who had followed us from Cradle Mt..

16.5.09 Firetails, firetails where are the firetails. I was beginning to believe we would not see them. How embarrassing would that be – EVERYONE else saw them here, even those who came for 3 or 4 days seem to see one or two. Yet here we were on a two week, count ‘em, 15 days, trip and we couldn’t find them anywhere! 

We got up late - the wind and rain had howled around the wooden building all night so we didn’t get down to Strahan sea front until 8.45. We wanted to go on a boat trip up the Gordon River and I had hoped to kayak from the cruise boat. Unfortunately our late arrival put paid to this possibility and anyway the weather was awful but it is something I would still love to do. 

The Gordon/Franklin river was the scene of major protests in the 80s when authorities wanted to dam the river for a hydroelectric project. There were mass demonstrations on the river and subsequently around the country in support. It was Australia’s first real environmental protest and, thankfully, was successful in stopping the proposed action - the area has now been heritage listed.

We boarded the Eagle at 9.00 ($85 each for the blue seats – you can wander anywhere on board but don’t sit in the red seats!) and were entertained and fed for the next 6 hours as the boat went to the river mouth we saw the salmon& trout fisheries, then to Sarah island for a very entertaining guided tour by a Chilean one Patricia Silva (the boat trip is worth it for this guy alone!), up the Franklin to the heritage Walk (I saw a Pink Robin) and then back to port. We heard all about the convicts and, yep, the Huon pine, that’s right, folks, the only oil known to man that sinks in water, you get the picture? It was an interestingly live commentary – but quite educational. 

We didn’t see many birds from the boat – 2 White-bellied Sea Eagles, a flock of about 40 Black Currawongs, a distant Grey Goshawk sat in a tree on the ridge and assorted Gulls - but it was when we were returning back down the river and had just cleared its mouth that a white and grey/black bird flew past to our stern. We were powering forward and the wind was blowing it back so it was a pretty quick view and then it was going away with no hope of recovery, but we got the bins on it and are confident it was a WHITE-HEADED PETREL. In an unusual location, it was obviously wind blown into the bay and right up to the river mouth, the white tail and rump, grey/black wings, white mantle and head with dark markings, stiff winged flight and size clearly marked it as such.

Returning to the dockside we purchased some Huon pine bits and pieces and then headed out to the airfield to try for the Striated Fieldwren, Southern Emu-wrens and Ground Parrots we had heard were there. We did find the first two but had only poor views in the windy conditions. It would appear, however, that a stop anywhere along the unsealed road would produce the goods. Thanks to the recent rain the ground was quite waterlogged and, I suspect, the parrots may have moved to higher ground as a result. We investigated the end of the ‘peninsula’ trying to get somewhere for a seawatch, but gave up when it became clear the south side of the mouth of the bay was only sand dunes and gave no height above sea level. The northside is inaccessible by road. 

We returned to ‘camp’ and had a quiet dinner before a stroll in Strahan revealed everything closed except the hotel.

17.5.09 Once again the wind had eased overnight and the rain had stopped – in fact it was looking almost like sun! We headed out towards the coast via the Ocean View Road (unsealed) and setting up the ‘scopes had a look at the ‘alberts’ off the coast. They were a fair way out and showed no signs of coming closer so we turned our attentions to the flock of Double-banded Plover on the beach, the White-bellied Sea Eagleoverhead and the various honeyeaters in the surrounding bush.

After a while we headed back along the road towards Strahan intending to try the airfield again but stopped approximately 2 kms from the bitumen as the habitat looked as good as further out. Within a few minutes we had several pairs of Southern Emu-wrens and had excellent sustained views of both male and female birds, Silvereyes and Golden Whistlers. We strolled up and down the road checking out the verges and low brush when S called a possible Firetail. He had seen a red-rumped bird disappear into a patch of brush but although we watched and scanned and pished for 15 minutes there was no sign of it. We returned to the car and were about to give it away when suddenly, at last, S spotted the target bird about 30 meters away on the roadside and we had very acceptable views of a male BEAUTIFUL FIRETAIL in a low tree and hopping on the ground beside a pool of rainwater before it appeared to collect a strand of grass and fly off into the same patch of bush as earlier. It seems unlikely it was nest building so it may have been taking the grass to a more secure location to feed? We high-fived and were ecstatic as at long last we had found our errant species! 

Returning to the bitumen we decided not to try the airfield again but checked the corners of the harbour (Hoary-headed Grebe) before we headed into Strahan for a celebratory pastry and coffee fix before fuelling up and heading east back towards Hobart. 

Through Queenstown – yeuch, how can a state like T have a place like that and worst of all, no sign of any attempted reclamation? No stopping there! 

On to Nelson Falls and a river in spate meaning an exceptional waterfall. We had stunningly close views of Scrubtit and T Scrub-wren here. I almost managed to get some photos! On to Lake St Clair and a walk into the platypus viewing area – no platypus, but a bit of pishing and a pair of Olive Whistlers put in a performance so close that I did actually get some quite acceptable photos! We also had Black-headed, Crescent and Yellow-throated Honeyeaters in our relatively brief visit. 

We reached Mt Field NP just before dusk. We had considered camping for our last night before Hobart, however, the camp site was so wet and waterlogged there were Native Hens walking around feeding on the sites… so we went looking for an alternative. I tried the first set of cottages  - $100 a night. (Well, what if we used our own bedding? Make it $70?” “ Nope – its all there already it’s a $100”  “OK, thanks.”) 

We finally found a backpackers about 10 kms further out at Maydena (left hand side of the road, the house with a front verandah, similar to a Queenslander, $25 a night). Unfortunately he was closed as he was renewing the floor, but he did re-direct us to Celtic Dawn and rang them to confirm for us. $30 a night each and we had our own little room with twin beds, coffee & tea making facilities, a separate bathroom and shower and a ‘bush’ kitchen, which was pretty basic and quite cold until we lit the barbeque. It was very pleasant actually and we had dinner before heading off into the National park 200 meters away to look for Owls – that was unsuccessful, but at least we tried! 

18.5.09 Up at 6.30 coffee only for breakfast as we had run out of milk. Into the National park again and we drove to the top of the road (16 kms unsealed) to Lake Dobson. Snow everywhere except on the track – it had been cleared. A beautiful sunny, clear skied morning, the snow crisp and clean.. and icy. I fell over in the first few yards but that was expected….. Not much bird-wise but lovely to walk through the Pandanni Grove Walk up to Eagle Tarn, then we swung right and headed back down the 4wd track to the car park. A narrow gutter beside the track held some trickling water a few cms deep. Concentrating on not falling over again, something caught my eye, a movement, a brown object, in the gutter, it was a Platypus! We watched it within touching distance for about 30 minutes as it fed in the shallow water. We felt very privileged to see such an animal at such intimate distance. Many photos and videos later we left it to its breakfast and headed back down the mountain to Lyrebird Nature Walk – no Lyrebirds but we did have a Bassian Thrush, Pink Robin, Grey Currawongs and an immature Golden Whistler which gave us pause for a few minutes. Returning to the visitor centre we walked through it and up to Russell Falls. Although spectacular I think Nelson Falls was more impressive. We had another Pink Robin returning from there and lots of T Scrub-wrens and Thornbills on both these walks.

Feeling peckish at missing breakfast we stopped at the Possum Shed beside the river in Westerway and enjoyed pancakes and home made scones while watching Yellow Wattlebirds and Grey Butcherbirds in the nearby trees. (Highly recommended for excellent coffee and the food was brilliant!)

As we left Westerway after re-fuelling again (the most expensive fuel $1.41 a litre) a pigeon like bird lifted off the road, pulling to a stop we had a brief view of one of the flock – a Common Bronzewing. The only Bronzewing we positively identified in the two weeks – we had flushed several off unsealed roads in our travels, but they had always disappeared before id could be confirmed.

We arrived back in Hobart around 14.00 receiving all our txt messages of the last week as we came back within range. Parked in Salamanca and wandered the shops and had a close look at Aurora Australis the Australian polar ship. We booked into the YHA in Argyll st ($28 each per night) and then as dusk fell drove up Mt Wellington for a night time viewing of Hobart. There was lots of snow on the ground, but only a light breeze so it was very cold, but quite pleasant.

19.5.09 We visited the Antarctic headquarters at Kingston and spent a couple of hours wondering what it would be like to spend a year on the frozen continent – what birding would be like in minus temperatures before returning to the airport, checking in the X-trail and boarding our flight for home. As we left Welcome Swallows and Musk Lorikeets flew overhead….

 

Learnings: I think we covered Tasmania pretty well and did very well as far as the birds were concerned. 101 species total, 29 lifers and 2 additions to my Australian list, 35 lifers for Stuart and 9 mammal lifers between us – we’re pretty happy!

I would like to go back to do things like swim with the seals at George Town or kayak the Gordon River, get the jet boat on the Huon and abseil the Gordon dam. There’s a lot to see and do.

So far as birds are concerned I would love to get a couple of pelagics – I think that is where we were unlucky, even though we did get 4 sp of ‘Alberts’ and 3 petrels. The time of year was wrong for the two parrots – Orange-bellied and Blue-winged - that neither of us has seen. That could not be avoided, and it gives us a reason to go back and get them - and walk the Overland trail from Cradle Mt to Lake St Clair (5 days) and get a pelagic out of both Eaglehawk Neck and St Helens and fly into Melaleuca for the OBP. Yes, we’re planning that trip already!

3.10.09

Samsonvale

Off to Samsonvale in pursuit of crakes and cuckoos reported during the week. Arriving at 6.30, we wandered down to the edge of the lake below the cemetery, joined by a couple with their two dogs kept on leases. We suspected they may have come to give the dogs a swim - and thought better of it with our presence, they took off a short time later. Some guy arrived with a small water tanker in tow and proceeded to fill up from the lake… it seemed we were destined for a disturbed morning! 

Aust and Great Crested Grebes loitered just off shore, heaps of Whiskered Terns flew back and forth resplendent in their smart black, white & red. A Buff-banded Rail was our first ‘excitement’ – briefly seen at the foot of the grassy track. Carefully, mindful of the recent reports of snakes, we negotiated the track to the side pond, but there was no activity there, so, once the tanker-guy had driven off, we returned to the lakes edge where Stu immediately spotted a Baillon’s Crake in the reedy grass on the left hand side. Rob and I tried for photos but it was, as usual, quite discreet and although close, did not venture into open ground. While we were pursuing this individual, Stu spotted another 3 birds on the opposite side of the ‘bay’ and I stalked them for a few minutes in the hope of more successful photography. 

The Crakes moved on so did we, over the gate and up the track to the Hoop Pines on the hill. We heard a Brush Cuckoo but failed to locate it, we did hear and see a pair of Channel-billed Cuckoos, but the hoped for Pallid didn’t materialise. A Spectacled Monarch, 2 White-breasted Wood-swallow and a Varied Triller were the highlights of the morning after that although a single Crested Tern was an unusual record so far inland.

Breakfast at the Flying Nun in Samford was very successful with prolonged discussion over the upcoming SE Asia trip in December.